WELCOME to the anvilfire Guru's Den - V. 3.3

THIS is a forum for questions and answers about blacksmithing and general metalworking. Ask the Guru any reasonable question and he or one of his helpers will answer your question, find someone that can, OR research the question for you.

This is an archive of posts from September 24 - 30, 2011 on the Guru's Den
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Multiplaz : Wayne, It looks like an interesting device. Appears to be Russian, manufactured in China. It does many things but I'm not sure how well. The soldering operation looked like it burned the copper pipe (black flaky copper oxide). Torch cutting tile looked handy if you are into making tile mosaics. I like the lack of need for a gas source or even an air compressor.

I would worry about the availability of dealers if I depended on it. It has a 24 month warranty but that is no better than who you purchase something from and the company backing it up. Try getting warranty service on your Saturn auto. . . (or even service).

Water and alcohol are not the only supplies necessary. Like all arc/gas/plasma processes there are nozzles, tips and such. They list cathode and nozzle life at 10 - 20 hours. They do not say but I would use distilled water. You never know what kind of minerals are in local water and the deposits they produce.

Plasma is one of the four states of matter (Solid, Liquid, Gas, Plasma). A plasma is a cloud of protons, neutrons and electrons where all the electrons have come loose from their respective molecules and atoms, giving the plasma the ability to act as a whole rather than as a bunch of atoms.

Plaza generally only occurs at high temperatures and is very energetic. The Multiplaz states 14,400°F (8,000°C).

Several discussions on this device confused it with electrolysis units.

The question IS do you need a plasma torch?. Generally it is needed when you have stainless to torch cut. In this case you are limited to 3/8" (10mm) but can cut non-metallic materials. This one seems to replace an oxy-acetylene torch for many purposes. However, even a small oxy-acetylene rig can cut plate up to 2" or more.

This is a very portable device weighing less than 20 pounds. However, at 120V they say no less than 20A and suggest a 25A breaker. In modern homes the majority of outlets are on 15A breakers, special circuits in a kitchen at 20A and rarely anything higher in 120V unless there are outlets for window AC units (rated at 30A). So you can't just plug it in anywhere and expect it to work at full capacity. But this is true with any significant tool including many small 120V welders. My B&D Wildcat angle grinder will trip anything less than a 30A breaker when you lean on it. The Multiplaz can also be setup to run on 240VAC.

Keeping the arc going in Mode II (arc cutting - heavy welding) looks like it requires a lot of practice to maintain that 1.5 to 2 mm (.060 to .080") arc length, especially with that big torch and tip blocking your view. The demo guys (like the Henrob salesman) always make it look EASY. . .

For the price you can purchase a nice Miller AC/DC buzz box, a full size (Victor Journeyman) oxy-acetylene setup with cylinders and consumables to get started. You can't do the same things but the Multiplaz can't do everything these two can either.

I'd love to have one to try out.
   - guru - Sunday, 09/25/11 01:30:24 EDT

me too! Thanks for that.
   - wayne@nb - Sunday, 09/25/11 10:34:13 EDT

Multiplaz : Dealers aside, it has the same advantages of many of the small portable plasma units in that it can be used far away from a welding gas supplier. In this case all that is required is a modest amount of AC power that could be supplied by a generator and potable water and "alcohol".

They are not clear on the type of alcohol but warn against methyl hydrate (AKA methanol) so I assume the required fuel is ethanol. The 50% or more mixture of alcohol and water they require is basically 100 plus proof whiskey or in this case Vodka. Thus perhaps the Russian connection. . .

So while sailing the South Pacific on your sail boat, as long as the generator is working and you still have some Vodka you can weld.
   - guru - Sunday, 09/25/11 10:53:16 EDT

Twisting steel : I know this is not a new idea but this was something I was thinking. Have a propane forge with a door in the front and back. Have several layers of steel tacked together, clamped in a rotating vice, running through the entire length of the forge, with the other end clamped in a vice on the other side. Heat to welding temperature and start twisting. Twist a couple of pieces, tack together and repeat as many times as you want, the final weld can be just regular forging and hammering.
   Mike T. - Sunday, 09/25/11 14:21:27 EDT

Hay Budden anvil : Hi, Thank you for your willingness to help. I have an old 95 pound wrought iron Hay Budden anvil (it actually belongs to my 92 year old dad). I don't know anything about anvils, but would like to know the value of this one. I live in the St. Paul, MN area, and could send pictures if you're willing to take a look. Thanks a bunch!
   Donadee Peterson - Sunday, 09/25/11 15:45:10 EDT

Mike, I'm not sure what your end goal is. A long twist, a laminated stack? Good forge welds are best made flat, then twisted if that is where you want to go.

If you are looking for a better way to making laminates then try stainless foil. No flux needed, very clean. Wrapping the stack keeps out air and assures better welds.

If you are looking to make long twists then that an be done cold.
   - guru - Sunday, 09/25/11 15:49:32 EDT

Hay-Budden :
Donadee, Hay-Budden went out of business about 1928 so all Hay-Budden's are about 100 to 140 years old. In the 100 pound class they are fairly common. After brand price is dependent mostly on condition. In mint or nearly unused condition this little anvil might sell for $500 or more. In used but un-abused condition $300 to $400. Well worn $200-$250 and with chipped corners, heavy wear or abuse somewhere around $100.

Top dollar prices take effort to obtain (advertising, willingness to wait) so they are not always obtained.
   - guru - Sunday, 09/25/11 16:21:33 EDT

Jock, I think Mike T is talking about the forces of the twist causing the weld. I've heard of this as well, tried it with little results. Maybe the stainless foil would help. The main problem being scale in between the steel. Now, if Mike is talking strips of steel, completely forget it, the shear forces of the twisting will shred it apart. Cable or rod would be a better choice for material shape.
   - Nippulini - Monday, 09/26/11 08:42:34 EDT

Twist weld : With cable you twist it tighter but that does not weld it into a solid due to the air spaces. Maybe a stack of square stock then twist but the stretching and sliding would be doing the opposite of what you want.

I suggested the foil for a flat billet weld.
   - guru - Monday, 09/26/11 09:00:26 EDT

Hay Budden anvil : Thanks so much for your time and information! I appreciate it!
   Donadee Peterson - Monday, 09/26/11 11:20:05 EDT

Welding...Part Deux !!! : YeeHaw, I now run possibly the worst beads this side of the Snake River!! So I've got a couple of questions. First, with O/A I move the torch tip in a circular motion to get a uniform bead as I puddle and I can SEE what I'm doing. With the arc I'm running more on sense of smell, what # lens should I be using? I'm using #10 now. And how do I approach the "roll of dimes" look? I know practice, practice, practice, but it would sure help to know the proper hand motion. I'm welding 1/4" stock, using 5/32, E7018 rod with the welder set at 135. Thanks.
   Thumper - Monday, 09/26/11 20:31:41 EDT

Thumper. Advice from a self taught! : My forte is smithing, but I can lay a bead. For O/A, I use pretty much a parnthesis shape for oscillating, kind of like a abreviated letter "C" working downhand, left to right. If you're cookin', curve up and on the down curve, feed with the filler rod. Up, down/feed; up, down/feed, etc. It's a dance. The copper welding tip has a 30º bend in it, so by turning your wrist a little you can direct the flame where you want.

For the stick weld, #10 lens sounds good. You might lower the amps to 90; 75?. If the bead looks wormy, you're too far from the workpiece. With the hood down and working left to right, you can oscillate, again kind of like the parenthesis, moving a little ahead of the puddle, then immediately back into the puddle. Point the electrode at the puddle at about a 20º angle. In other words, if you're right handed, your right hand will be leaning away, ahead of the puddle at about 20º. The electrode tip "blows" the material a little; you'll get used to that. Some rods are drag rods, so you don't need to oscillate or look for a roll of dimes.

My ex father-in-law taught ship welding in WW II, but he had to take lessons first. His teacher was a large, matronly woman. She would go around from student to student with helmet on, and her favorite saying was, "Watch the puddle honey, watch the puddle!"

There was a welding instructor at Hobart at one time who was palsied. When he struck an arc however, his large shaking movements ceased, and the small perfect oscillation began. Finally, one of the students asked him why he didn't shake when he was welding. His reply, "Learned to weld before I learned to shake!"

I'm going out on a limb with my information, and I may be chastised by more experienced welders. All I can say is that I have had good luck with my methods.
   Frank Turley - Monday, 09/26/11 21:43:35 EDT

Oscillation continued : The parenthesis described above should be a reverse "C", the convexity to the right.
   Frank Turley - Monday, 09/26/11 21:47:44 EDT

Please : no more than 4 years ago i came upon this site when i was first interested in blacksmithing having done a merit badge on it in scout's. While browsing the site i found a response email from the site maker to all the "stupid people" who sent him emails asking to be taught sword smithing while refusing to read any book or even TRY on their own. giving excuses like "i need it for the apocalypse" or "i need it for a school project"... it was the single most hilarious thing that i have ever read on the internet and i CANNOT FIND IT on this site. Has it been removed? Can someone send me the original letter?
   mike - Tuesday, 09/27/11 00:25:15 EDT

Welding 1/4" : Thumper, I run mostly 1/8" E6013 rods occasionally E6011. On a 1/4" butt weld I would be running 90 to 100A AC. On 1/4" T or fillet or to heavier material I would push the 1/8" rods closer to the max (about 125A).

On a 3/8" wide bead on most joints I run right down the middle with no oscillations. You watch the size of the flux and puddle. The pre-chipped result is 1-1/2 to 2 times as wide as the expected bead depending on the rod type. Heavy coated rods, drag and "jet" rods have a heavier flux covering. When you do it right the flux curls off as it cools. . .

From my comments earlier in the week - I've helped a lot of student welders by sitting across from them and coaching them as they weld. It usually only takes one bead. "Closer, closer, steady now, keep moving, look closely into the puddle, slow and steady, keep that arc short, watch the puddle size. . ." Just say that over and over as you weld. . . .

When starting out normal practice beads are straight lines on a piece of scrap plate about 6" long. After you can make a fair straight bead then you run one bead in the corner of the previous bead. These are parallel stringer beads and one should burn smoothly into the other.

IF you can weld pretty after using up that 5 pound box of rods you bought you are a born welder. Use up a full box on a weekend and you've had a little practice. Just remember that all that heat is spinning your electric meter about as fast as it will go. Run enough rod in one month and you might double your electric bill!
   - guru - Tuesday, 09/27/11 00:26:00 EDT

Sword Smithing Correspondence : Mike, Its on Sword Smithing Page. FAQs / Generation X Sword Making / Another Letter (bottom of page).

At least I think that is the one. There have been a few discussions that were in that vein as well.
   - guru - Tuesday, 09/27/11 00:42:28 EDT

Twists : Sorry about the question I asked, after thinking about it, I had asked that same question a good long time back, with the same answer. Instead of welding, the stacked pieces would slide. Instead weld and twist, then maybe weld several twists together.
   Mike T. - Tuesday, 09/27/11 01:19:45 EDT

Twinsting question : I do my hot twisting in the vise horizontally. I've observed some smiths twisting vertically, usually on short lengths. To me, vertical twisting is awkward, and there is a chance of burning your forearms if you're not careful. If the vise is free standing, you can walk around the vise twisting vertically, but why? With horizontal twisting, you're standing in one place and looking down at what is happening. The scale is easily brushed off, so that you can better see how you're doing, and you can work on long pieces. 2¢
   Frank Turley - Tuesday, 09/27/11 09:17:45 EDT

Frank, another advantage of twisting horizontally it that you can use a squirt bottle of water to cool the sections that are twisting too fast and make a nicer looking even twist.
   - Bernard Tappel - Tuesday, 09/27/11 10:19:15 EDT

Vertical vs. Horizontal Twisting :
The only things I twist vertical are little things like hooks. If they are hot enough at the time of the twist I would do them in two pairs of tongs but if a little too stiff for that then in the vise.

When demonstrating I would occasionally do a twist in 1/2" stock vertical in the vise because more people could see what was going on. But when working at home I always did them horizontal.

That said there are a number of tools made that attach to the corner and leg of a bench or on a stand in the floor that are used for cold twisting vertically. There are advantages and disadvantages. The biggest advantage is this takes the minimum floor space when the handle or wheel is removed. With some limitations it works great for standard railing pickets. The disadvantage is this limits the length of work that can be twisted.

Then there are twisting machines which make no sense to operate any way other than horizontal.
   - guru - Tuesday, 09/27/11 10:57:34 EDT

sovie anvil : small world i looked at the number on the little record benchmark anvil in the sovie estate it was 449066 just for the heck of it i looked at mine its the very one sure would like to figure out who benchmark is
   vern kelderman - Tuesday, 09/27/11 12:44:06 EDT

Vern, There is a company called "Benchmark" in almost every major city. They are typically computer or software services companies but there are others. In my home town Benchmark Systems which used to be a small database company is now a big medical records outfit. But they are not the only company using that name.

Then there is Benchmark Tool Company Jefferson City MO and a Benchmark Abrasives (different logo).

But since it is a Record anvil (Now Irwin tools) that is who made it. There is a video on YouTube of employees in the old plant in England. Somewhere in the video is one of the anvils but I keep missing it.

   - guru - Tuesday, 09/27/11 13:44:47 EDT

I prefer vert twists on small pieces because you can sight the line and keep it more true. I notice that when I do long twists horizontially I end up having to take it to the stump with a mallet.
   - Nippulini - Tuesday, 09/27/11 15:01:19 EDT

Of course this is all theoretical.... shop still down. One of my benches bent a foot and snapped it off, so I got to do a little welding yesterday!
   - Nippulini - Wednesday, 09/28/11 08:55:27 EDT

Spam Notification ? : Guru, I posted a bit on my welding last night and got a notification saying I was using bad languuage and the post was considered spam. Would you mind looking up that post and telling me what the mystery word was that I used? The psst was about speed on running the bead.
   Thumper - Wednesday, 09/28/11 16:27:39 EDT

Filters :
Thumper, Etal. . Something is broken in the filter. Not sure why. Working on it. . . may have to record the trip word.
   - guru - Wednesday, 09/28/11 17:03:24 EDT

IMPORTANT Forced Changes :
We are making some changes under the hood to our forums. Due to recent hacking attempts we had to re-vamp our IP blocking to both IP and DNS lists. After some recent forum spamming we put in word filters that will prevent posting a list of various words including some 'curse' words and all those drugs sold by spam. You know which ones I mean. After a couple forum ad spammers got through the word filters (they just changed to some kind of insurance or phishing scam) we have instituted checking users against the stopforumspam.com system.

Stopforumspam.com lists nearly eight million forum spammer user names, IP's and emails. Some are "bots" (programs that search for input forms and post their tripe), some are individuals and other "boiler rooms". MANY of those listed are the duplicates for the same folks that just throw away a profile as soon as it is burned by spam filters or they are banned from a site.

The problem is going to be that some innocents MAY get caught in this system. We have no choice except to block by any one of the three pieces of data (user name, IP and email) if any match. IF your user name gets compromised by a spammer then we will work on an exempt list. But this will require both a user name and email or a member registration and login, probably the later.

For many of you going by a single common name you may need to change to a name and initial at a minimum. I apologize if your name or alias gets caught in the machinery.

This is all new and not implemented on all the forums. But it will be soon.

Thumper, we have a fairly short word list that I THOUGHT did not catch any common words (it uses a partial match so that "dipp", would catch "dipper" and "dipping" - if you know what I mean). Most of the words are products advertised by spam. The posts are not stored if they do not make it to the forum. When it happens you should be able to hit the back button in your browser and get the input form and post.

I've turned off the word filter. However, it just worked correctly on the Hammer-In and stopped a known spammer. . . Seems to be broken here but not elsewhere.
   - guru - Wednesday, 09/28/11 17:09:04 EDT

anvil : Thanks im sure its hopeless i checked 550 reg terademarks in the us and 94 in uk none match maybe i should try the lottery
   vern kelderman - Wednesday, 09/28/11 17:48:16 EDT

Low Loss Stack Cap : Guru, I have been looking at the plans for the Low Loss Stack Cap, and I am wondering if the extra height for the cap is in addition to the 4' extending past the roof peek?
   - Kelly - Wednesday, 09/28/11 18:01:30 EDT

Kelly, I do not think so. The top of the "cap" is the top of the stack in this case. The general rule for chimneys is 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet. So if you had a roof that sloped 2 feet in 10 you would need a stack 4 feet higher than where it penetrated the roof.
   -guru - Wednesday, 09/28/11 18:46:17 EDT

Hmm BF is posting my e-mail and IP for spammers to use over at forgemagic; I was wondering why as it didn't seem to be affecting me. Perhaps he hopes to get me on the spammer list!
   Thomas P - Wednesday, 09/28/11 20:14:59 EDT

You can't steal someone else's IP. . . But some systems will block their retieval.

I have already had to back off on filtering usernames. First few member's I tried bounced. Blocking IP's is fairly safe but its using a cannon to kill a flea. Forum spamers use real mail accounts on free systems (gmail is number 1) because they need to be able to register for most forums. Emails are also never duplicate. So they are a safe "fingerprint" to ban with.

I think I fixed the word filter.
   - guru - Wednesday, 09/28/11 21:16:35 EDT

Double bick anvils : Have a look at the anvils on http://outils-anciens.xooit.fr/t3322-Enclume-a-2-tables.htm#p26732
Any ideas what they are used for?? Like the armourer's anvil, they can be set on their back (not the one on the forum), or their ends - The projecting side beak is similar to those on UK chain makers' anvils, but why two??? And the small bick at the end???
   Bob Burgess (UK) - Thursday, 09/29/11 07:45:25 EDT

Unusual Little French Anvil or Swage Block :
What almost everyone in the discussion on that page has overlooked is the reliefs and bosses on the "back". The anvil is small enough (275 x 275mm or 10-13/16 x 10-13/16") to be part of a type of rotating universal tool stand. The bosses look they are for attaching the anvil to a stand or fixture that would hold it in various positions. The curved area between the two bosses perhaps a place for a bearing or clearance for a shaft. I think that much like many vise or multi-function tool anvils that this is just one part of a larger device and not a stand alone tool. It is also very common for the only remaining part of such a device to be the "anvil".

It also appears to be cast iron, not ductile iron or cast steel as speculated. This is also typical of multi-function tools.

With old worn pieces like this it is hard to tell. The bosses on the back have worn holes that may have been starter places for drilled and threaded holes OR they were drilled but have been broken and battered to the current shape. OR studs may have been broken out of the casting. The "bearing" area may have been reworked. The bottom also has what appear to be machining allowances (the two raised flat surfaces). Failed unfinished cast parts of this sort are also common. It is not unusual for bad castings with miss-runs or surface sand inclusions to "escape" the foundry scrap pile and end up in someone's shop.

I agree that the grooves in one side may be ingot molds but the comparison to the poorly designed modern "Austrian" anvil (image from anvilfire) is a bad comparison. The closed grooves on that anvil are the result of a patternmaker doing a poor job of copying an old anvil design. Not with the intent to make ingot molds.

Like many multi-function tools and swage blocks the design of such a tool does not necessarily follow long tradition. The designer or pattern maker can put any feature they think might be interesting or useful on the tool. The little rectangular horn is one of these features.

It is an interesting old piece. But like so many of these odd pieces it will probably remain a mystery forever.
   - guru - Thursday, 09/29/11 10:15:57 EDT

At Quad-State there were a few cylindrical swage blocks mounted on large bearings so you could rotate them to the swage you wanted---an amusing conceit!
   Thomas P - Thursday, 09/29/11 12:20:47 EDT

Odd Tool Shapes :
two views of cylindrical swage block

I designed a short cylindrical swage block with two flat working surfaces. It was more art than well designed tool. While it looked nice and would work well it wasted a lot of material that COULD have been edges taking better advantage of the material used.

Somewhere years ago I saw an article or ad for hexagonal swage blocks. These were supposedly easier to roll into position on a bench. At least the flat sides were more useful than my cylindrical block. But you still can't beat square.

I've also designed a cubical swage block. To get good use of the sides there were central grooves on several and the side grove forms only went half way across. I thought this would make a nice compact inexpensive to cast block at 9" x 9" x 9" (230 x 230 230mm). However, a cube that size weighs a surprising amount (190 lbs. 86 kg)! After that I figured that someone else had probably figured this out long ago and ever since blocks have been 1/3 to 1/4 their width in thickness.
   - guru - Thursday, 09/29/11 13:56:49 EDT

Spam and Cheese Weights : We appreciate the hard work. I have had at least one forum ruined for me by spam of a highly unacceptable nature (applicable to folks in sensitive government positions; you DON'T want to be associated with certain things if you work for local, state or federal government organizations or educational organizations).

The "cheese swage" reminds me of an amateur Viking who insisted that the Viking Age blacksmiths used large, circular anvils. I traced it back to The Sword in Anglo-Saxon England by H. R. Ellis Davidson, where in the appendix John Anstee did some of the original experiments in recreating pattern welding in 1955. In a later article, he is shown using a large cheese weight as a "field expedient" anvil; and somehow, folks have assumed that this must be an "authentic" Viking-style anvil.
   Bruce Blackistone (Atli) - Thursday, 09/29/11 15:29:09 EDT

amateur armature : I've fallen for that one. Spell checks don't supply "amateur" when spelled "amature", the provide armature. . .
   - guru - Thursday, 09/29/11 16:06:08 EDT

bill gichner : are brass paperweights with his name common there isa new one selling in the next hour
   vern kelderman - Thursday, 09/29/11 20:17:04 EDT

Vern, Sorry for the delay. The older 1980's dated Gishner's are $20-$40 and the later 2000's $15 to $25.
   - guru - Friday, 09/30/11 00:35:01 EDT

Got a visit from Bucks Co. Dep of Health. Apparently someone (I suspect a neighbor who has started trouble with me and my property line since the flood) reported that I was "dumping chemicals from my garage into the creek". I have no gargage. All the chemicals I use for my work have been discarded after the flood, my basement workshop is empty! She immediately could tell that there is no garage, and my house is located 150 feet away from the creek edge. "Bogus call" was her response. I'm trying to get the original claimant investigated to begin a harrassment charge. In a different time, the guy would be in a hospital and I would be in jail. But I have a baby and loving family in my home, so I don't do stupid things anymore.
   - Nippulini - Friday, 09/30/11 08:57:20 EDT

Neighbor Problems : I've had neighbor problems and had friends with the same. It can be a real pain and last a long time. One "mature" neighbor I was hoping would die and the problem go away is now in his 90's and going string. . . A friend has neighbors that report everything he does to one form of authority or another. He has had to go to court several times over the complaints and has always been vindicated but it still cost money.

My boundary dispute was not a small one. It was over 2 acres. The neighbor, a local with deep roots in the area, knew there was a defect in our deed which we did not. It was a minor technical error leaving out the two acres but at the same time stating it was ALL the property previously purchased by the people we bought the land from. It was also clearly shown on the plat (survey). The neighbor lost in court and was shown to be a liar. The judge gave him a good scolding. But it cost us $5,000 in legal fees. In most of the U.S. you pay your own fees and there is no suing the other guy for fees. . . I like the system in Canada where the loser automatically pays.

We have been lucky with neighbors otherwise. One new neighbor, a young fellow who was a hunter and black powder shooter introduced himself apologizing in advance saying if he made too much noise to let him know. . . Great neighbor for a blacksmith! Our current neighbors behind us on a small farm have horses, dogs, kids AND are are SCA members. . . I figure as long as I don't run the power hammer after the kids bed time there is no problem.
   - guru - Friday, 09/30/11 13:31:32 EDT

I had a harrassing neighbor for a while. Doccument everything in a spiral bound notebook or equivalent. We (the good neighbors) finally forced him into court for a restraining order. He drug out the proceedings until it was his turn on the stand--then he put his property up for sale and asked the action be dismissed. The judge didn't buy it, he continued the action until it actually sold. What a waste of time
   - David Hughes - Friday, 09/30/11 16:04:25 EDT

Neighbor Problems: : I had a harrassing neighbor for a while. Doccument everything in a spiral bound notebook or equivalent. We (the good neighbors) finally forced him into court for a restraining order. He drug out the proceedings until it was his turn on the stand--then he put his property up for sale and asked the action be dismissed. The judge didn't buy it, he continued the action until it actually sold. What a waste of time
   - David Hughes - Friday, 09/30/11 16:04:59 EDT

Nip's Neighbors : ""But I have a baby and loving family in my home, so I don't do stupid things anymore.""

Excellent decision.
   - Tom H - Friday, 09/30/11 16:26:50 EDT

Most of us grow up eventually. . :
I used to drive "on the edge". Had cars on two wheels regularly, spun one sports car in a 360 on the same currve when wet three or four times. . . I blew out the rings on my favorite pickup truck hot dogging it on gravel roads. . . That one eventually cost me the truck as I could not afford to have the engine rebuilt again.

Years past. I was offered a "deal" on what had been my dream motorcycle many years earlier. I borrowed a helmet and took it for a test drive. I used to drive bikes on the edge as well. . . power sliding on gravel curves. . . But his time on a warm sunny day, driving on a smooth straight paved road all I could think watching the pavement whiz by is, pain. pain, pain. . . I turned down the bike.

Since then I have slowed down a lot. Too much pain in life to be creating more of it yourself. Slow down, you live longer.
   - guru - Friday, 09/30/11 18:24:00 EDT

I purchased 2 old metal spoked wheel that are 40 inches in diameter that I want to place on my signal cannon . Here iun lies the problem , one of them is bent . I would like to find a blacksmith around the Douglasville , Ga . area to help me straighten this wheel . Any help you can give would be greatly appreciative . Thanks , Terry
   - Terry Anthony - Friday, 09/30/11 19:10:54 EDT

Guru thanks for clearing up the spam stuff.
As to "good" neighbors....haven't had any since the 70's. Back then we had block parties, watched each others kids, property and pets and knew each other by name. Now, having a neighbor that minds their own business seems to be the best you can find.
Good choice Nip, you never know the level of stupid you're dealing with nowaday's and every baby needs a da.
   Thumper - Friday, 09/30/11 21:08:37 EDT

That should have been "daddy", guess the spam filter knows more about foul language than I do LOL.....probably just a typo on my part actually.
   Thumper - Friday, 09/30/11 21:10:35 EDT

Hammer Ins : Hey, i was wondering if you guys could ask around for me as im semi-new to anvil fire, and find out if there are any hammer ins close to Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Thank You guys in advance
   Corey Klingensmith - Friday, 09/30/11 21:18:46 EDT

Wheel Straightening in GA :
Terry, Try alexbealer.org, and www.ocmulgeeblacksmiths.org, the blacksmith associations in GA.
   - guru - Friday, 09/30/11 22:22:27 EDT

South Dakota Hammer-Ins :
Corey, I'm sure there are some going on out there but I cannot find a currently listed organization website to point you to. Perhaps other may know of something out there. In the worse case you might have to do some research and get a group together on your own. . .
   - guru - Friday, 09/30/11 23:08:18 EDT

"Every baby needs a da"

Well, that's pretty much all he can make out.. "Da!", Heather is "ma!"
   - Nippulini - Saturday, 10/01/11 00:40:49 EDT

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