Some tools to drool over.  Image (c) 1998 Jock Dempsey WELCOME to the
Virtual Hammer-In!

This page is open to ALL for the purpose of advancing blacksmithing.

Archive of V.Hammerin May 2000

WHY THREE FORUMS? Well, this is YOUR blacksmithing forum to use for whatever you wish within the rules stated above. It is different than the Slack-Tub Pub because the messages are permanently posted and archived.
This page is NOT a chat - it is a "message board"

Our chat, the (Slack-Tub Pub), is immediate but the record of it temporary. DO NOT post permanent messages there. We refresh the "log" every 24 hours now and your message will be lost.

The Guru's Den is where I and several others try to answer ALL your blacksmithing and metalworking questions to us.

Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com 07/27/98, 03/01/99, 05/20/2000, 06/16/2000



well???

?? - Monday, 05/01/00 23:28:49 GMT


??,

That's a deep subject, did you dig it? (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 05/02/00 01:33:52 GMT


PVC Compressed Air Lines: I know this has been answered, but I thought I'd add. I have seen PVC compressed air lines fail. A faucet production manager wanted PVC used in the plating area to reduce overhead piping corrosion from the plating acids. PVC worked for a while, then an operator hit a line with a plating rack and it exploded. PVC shrapnel everywhere. Luckily, no one was hurt. No more PVC air lines. The problem is that some compressor oils make the pvc brittle. Other compressor oils make it soft. PVC also becomes brittle with UV attack from sunlight. Even with UV inhibitors, it still gets brittle. ASME power piping code specifically disallows pvc compressed air piping. Black or galvanized steel pipe is the most cost effective for industrial use. I use soldered copper tubing at home and it works fine, but I'm the only one who works in the area. I'm not sure if codes allow soldered copper. The factor of safety using type M copper tubing is not what it should be. There are special plastic pipe systems marketed for compressed air. I never found them cost effective for industrial plants.

That being said, I have to admit that I have a number of potato cannons that use PVC pipe and fittings. But I only use Aqua Net Superhold Unscented as a propellant, so my chamber pressures are not that high. And I throw the cannons away after about a year or 250 potato launches, whichever comes first. (grin)

I also like to see valves installed on the bottom of the drip legs that Jock talks about. Seems they never get drained unless there is a valve installed. You'd be amazed what comes out of a drip leg in the humid months in Wisconsin. Even with air dryers and liquid traps on receivers.

Have Fun!

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Tuesday, 05/02/00 16:12:39 GMT


I am looking for quality anvil, blacksmith clipart, graphics. Can anyone lead me down the path?

Geoff G -- poohcrnr at primenet.com - Tuesday, 05/02/00 18:21:22 GMT


I am looking for quality anvil, blacksmith clipart, graphics. Can anyone lead me down the path?

Geoff G -- poohcrnr at primenet.com - Tuesday, 05/02/00 18:21:40 GMT


Geoff,

Exactly what are you looking for? I have a pretty fair collection.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 05/02/00 19:06:34 GMT


Any idea how to get info on the trip air hammer would be appreciated.

Peter Martin -- martinknives at earthlink.net - Wednesday, 05/03/00 03:34:12 GMT


Good evening fellers.............

Cutter B. Branson -- OzrkCutter at aol.com - Thursday, 05/04/00 03:31:34 GMT


Jim Wilson:
I do not have a camera. But I took some measurements. Please keep in mind that I do most of my design work as I go along. So fire up the table saw make some measurements and start cutting (diamond blade of course). I used fireplace firebox bricks (they were on hand). The back wall protectors are 8 1/2 inches long by 3/8 inch thick and 2 1/2 tall. Cut two of these, put in the first one then cut the second to fit. I did not make a jam fit just a pleasant fit. The next set of protectors is 3 9/16 x 1 1/4 x 1. These come right to the bottom of the end port and they hold the back stuff in place, and help to protect the liner when you drag stuff in and out of the ports. The bottom set is 4 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 3/4 thick these are smaller that the bottom so if required I can slip them out while forge is hot.

I tried not to cover up much of the liner, as I remember reading that the liner reflects back some of the heat and that is one of the reasons that it is so efficient. I may be wrong on this point. But I thought that it made sense at the time. That is why I used the thickness of the brick 2 1/2 inches as the back protector height. I hope that I did not make this sound to complicated. To ensure a proper fit, measure your forge. Though these forges are production, there could be some variance in interior sizing. I notice that I have a bit of a gap in the back protector now so I must assume that the brick has some how changed. I do not think that it could shrink, but? Something has occurred. Happy cutting!
Skip.

Skip Davis -- skdavis at juno.com - Thursday, 05/04/00 18:21:46 GMT


Skip,

I'll give it a try, thanks!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 05/05/00 13:40:22 GMT


Paw Paw--

I'd like a graphic of a nice anviloutline that I could use in a cast aluminum "license plate" design. (See my page at:
http://www.vol.com/~jodom/j1.htm and click on "school art project")

John Odom

John Odom -- jodom at vol.com - Friday, 05/05/00 22:24:35 GMT


Does any know of any good scrap metal places in the Seattle, WA area? There is not much to have around here, except for new. I am headed down to Portland through the Seattle area, and I know there has to be places with good pickings. I need to pick up some odds and ends to finish building a air hammer. Thx's.

Fred -- jyblood at nwi.net - Sunday, 05/07/00 05:24:31 GMT


iv recently was givin an antique forge and am having it restored to working order i need help on how to set it up for use im planning on taking it to reanactments of cival war era.need advise on the best way to go about it can you help me plz send email to cobeyparkarabians at yahoo.com thanks

jim -- cobeyparkarabians at yahoo.com - Monday, 05/08/00 23:34:41 GMT


What shape is the forge Jim, and what are you having done to it? Does it have a blower attached to it, or is the blower freestanding?

Steve O'Grady -- tenhammers at hotmail.com - Tuesday, 05/09/00 16:06:09 GMT


Can anyone give me a tip on making scrolls & forming small diameter pipe(1/4 & 3/8)? Thanks.

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Wednesday, 05/10/00 17:03:40 GMT


BENDING and SCROLLING PIPE: Steve, Bent hot or cold you will need support. Most pipe bending jigs have a half round goove and side that prevent the pipe from spreading and hence kinking.

Even with benders the minimum radius is limited. For cold bending you can make jigs from wood or wood with steel plates bolted to the sides.

For hot bending they would have to be all steel. See our 21st Century page and the articles on benders for general bender design. If you are still not sure then ask again. Normally I only answer questions on the guru page unless PawPaw or someone lets me know there is one here that might need my attention.

Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 05/10/00 21:34:58 GMT


I don't know if anyone else is interested in this but, I found a gentlemen on the web that sells belt grinder wheels very very reasonably. If you have a spare motor and want to make a cheap grinder he is at http://www.geocities.com/beaumontmetal/sander.html hes even got plans at his site.

Kial -- kmg11 at pacbell.net - Thursday, 05/11/00 03:05:30 GMT


Kial,

Nice spotting! Thanks for sharing that one, I book marked it for futur reference!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 05/11/00 03:50:26 GMT


Absence Makes the Heart Grow Fonder.

Or was it Absence Makes the Fart Go Yonder? I can never remember! I'll be out of town for a couple of days, doing the Revolutionary War Re-enactment blacksmith demo thing. Y'all try and behave yourselves till I get back, ya hear?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 05/11/00 23:00:46 GMT


FOLKS, I'M REALLY SORRY and EMBARRASED!


I failed to check the "contest" mail box for JYH Photo Contest Entries. I had completely forgotten that I had setup that box. Other entries came to my regular mail address. On top of everything else I am having trouble getting the photos off my old PC. . .

Please accept my appologies. Its too late tonight to for me to think straight. I will address the problem tomarrow.

Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, 05/12/00 06:05:14 GMT


Howdy,
I just moved into an industrial space in the ATL ,GA area and I've finally got enough room to break out my tools from the grave of storage,but allas after its all said and done I find myself lacking a few items. If any of you upstanding types have plans for a 90 break that can be built on the cheap(the only way I do things) I would appreciate it, or if anybody in the atl area has tools they are willing to let go of let me know
thanx,FRANK N STRINGER

Frank N Stringer -- _ashaman at excite.com - Saturday, 05/13/00 02:51:42 GMT


Howdy,
I just moved into an industrial space in the ATL ,GA area and I've finally got enough room to break out my tools from the grave of storage,but allas after its all said and done I find myself lacking a few items. If any of you upstanding types have plans for a 90 break that can be built on the cheap(the only way I do things) I would appreciate it, or if anybody in the atl area has tools they are willing to let go of let me know
thanx,FRANK N STRINGER

Frank N Stringer -- _ashaman at excite.com - Saturday, 05/13/00 02:52:37 GMT


I am trying to find plans for a out door spit for bar b queing a whole hog. Over an open fire. With legs you drive for the spit.

Randy -- Rmims at aol.com - Saturday, 05/13/00 20:03:30 GMT


Looking for anvils and any Blacksmith equipment in the Southern MO area, also looking for an edwards shear for sale or trade. Thanks, Mike

mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Monday, 05/15/00 02:14:01 GMT


I have CANDLE PANS: 3 1/2 in. 16 gauge 10-$7.50, 25-$15, 50-$25. FLOWER VOTIVE PANS: 3 in. 16 gauge 10-$10, 25-$20, 50-$35. Sample kit available for $5.Custom cut pans available on request. See picture at www.hotironinc.com or call 970-882-4545, 882-3244

Mike -- hotiron at frontier.net - Monday, 05/15/00 14:02:44 GMT


A friend of mine is building a forge and is looking for Kaowool 2" thick, and rigidizer or ITC. If anyone knows where these can be ordered online please e-mail me.

Willie

Willie Stabeno -- Wstabeno at tstar.net - Wednesday, 05/17/00 02:03:42 GMT


I am doing a very big Festival this year. Demos etc.. I have doen shows like this, but not to this scale. Does any one have some simple ideas that can be made on site. I not that good at forge welding, I have done nails., napkin holders, forks, leaves.. I have drawn a blank at the present time.. Festival is Augest 4 to 7 this year...ANy hints... Thanks

Barney -- barney at vainet.on.ca - Wednesday, 05/17/00 02:07:21 GMT


Willie,

A friend of mine is building a forge and is looking for Kaowool 2" thick, and rigidizer or ITC. If anyone knows where these can be ordered online please e-mail me.

McMaster & Carr. There is a link on the links page.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 05/17/00 12:40:31 GMT


hey
A new blacksmith here with good sense.
Anybody out there with a good but used 75 or so lb anvil.

Robert or Skip -- Skipnancy at aol.com - Wednesday, 05/17/00 17:42:41 GMT


Hello

Ten Hammers -- lforge at netins.net - Wednesday, 05/17/00 22:58:38 GMT


I don't like being spammed on line by AT&T at this site, eveytime i c
just got spammed again makes it very hard to enjoy what used to be a great site bye

Mike Sweany -- sweanym1 at juno.com - Friday, 05/19/00 22:25:05 GMT


I am just beginning piddling with blacksmithing and wanting to know what types of tools I should aquire. I have a homemade coal forge, couple of hammers, lenght of railroad rail, torch, welder, etc. I am wondering about what types of tongs or any other kind of tool to start out with. Can anyone recommend any books or plans for tools?
Thnaks for any help.

S. Cameron

Stuart Cameron -- Scam911 at aol.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 03:00:56 GMT


SPAM: Please note. WE DO NOT SELL YOUR NAME! Anytime you post your address in public it may be picked up by folks collecting addresses.

We are looking into things we can do to prevent this. Automaticaly apending a junk string to your addresses that would have to be removed manualy is one option. It would not make it impossible for people to post to you but it would make it expensive for name collectors.

SPAM RESPONSE: NEVER, send mail to the 'remove' address. Most of these are phoney and simply verify that you have an active address that you check. IF the mail is from ANY reputable source you can forward it (complete with subject and all headers) to:

ABUSE at nameofservice.com/net.

Any reputable service will immediately suspend mail privilages of spammers. IF YOU REPORT IT!

Sometimes you have to look for the service in the string of addresses in the header. Forget about sending complaints to overseas addresses. Most big spammers are moving off-shore or own their own server. Some use phoney or counterfiet addresses in the response header. Many of the counterfiets use yahoo.com or a service they have been thrown off of as a target.

==================================

We are currently running a poll at our GURU page address to see if folks would be intrested in a membership plan. Members would have access to advertisment free pages and possibly have automatic logins that would prevent spam collectors from using their information.

Another option is to make all access by "membership only" but then that would block the student and occasional user (about 50% of users).

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 12:37:16 GMT


Stuart, The most important tool is a real anvil and a blacksmith's 'post' or leg vise. Many smiths will tell you they use the vise as much or more than the anvil.

Vises need to be securely anchored to be of use. Most stands are not heavy enough. Benches need to be anchord to floor and or wall. ONE semi portable method is to attach the vise to a 55 gallon drum and then fill it with water. 400 (459 full) pounds of water make a pretty good anchor. Its there as a slack tub for quenching and can be drained for ease of movement. The drum needs to stiff opening. if you have to cut the top out leave about 1/3 so that it doesn't flex where the vise is mounted. A "bench top" usualy needs to be fitted to one side to attach the vise to. Some sort of screen (slainless like out of a deep fat frier) is handy to keep pieces from ending up in too much water to retrieve. AND you should fit a hose bib near the bottom so that when you drain the water you can direct it somewhere else. Its also handy for the occasional hose quench. .

The other way to anchor the vise is to a post set deep in the ground but this is often not possible. Many old shops had the vise post set and then a bench built around it. Another option is to put it on a flat base big enough that you stand on it. Since you are on the same base as the anvil it is as good as being anchored to the world! This is often done with a rolled steel ring and a plywood top. When you want to move it you tip it on edge and roll it while supporting the vise. NOTE: This only works IF the base is big enough for you to stand on.

There are several tools articles on the iForge page (see menu below) for anvil tools AND a better way to use that RR track anvil. You may also want to look at the Armor articles (21st Century page). Lots of intresting 'make do' tools there.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 13:07:36 GMT


I have been in touch with Jock and PawPaw, the online spam banner did not come from this site. In Fact it may be from JUno itself. I've been trying to contact them. I was at the McCaffe virus center when it started again today so far just one. THnaks Jock and PawPaw for a quick and helpful response. Mike

Mike Sweany -- "sweanym1 at juno.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 19:26:44 GMT


Mike,

Not a problem!

1. We're glad to help, that's why we're here. and

2. We are concerned and care about Anvilfire.com's reputation.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 19:34:50 GMT


A large fly wheel out of a big truck engine can be had from the local junk yard for little money.

Makes a great mounting plate for a post vise. Take the ring gear off, and weld the pin from the bottom of the vise into one of the holse near the edge of the fly whell. Stand on it to use the vise. It'[s heavy enough to provide a solid base, and easy to roll around.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 19:37:22 GMT


JOCK! SPELLCHECKER!

holse = holes

whell = wheel

darnit!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 05/20/00 19:41:44 GMT


I will be going to Cheyenne,Wy first wk in aug. and was wondering if could visit a few blacksmith shops while there or the Denver area.Visiting my grandson and family. Any one coming to Corning, NY is wellcome at my shop.

John Fee -- feejc at webtv.net - Sunday, 05/21/00 01:20:31 GMT


Anybody know what happens if I run a variable volume hydraulic pump at 1/3 lower than rated pressure with a 1/3 size motor? Really dont need anywhere near the full output of the pump. Can I get away with it? If not,will it work if I gear the motor down and just accept the slower output?................Thanks....Pete

Pete Fels -- artgawk at thegrid.net - Monday, 05/22/00 07:15:34 GMT


Anybody have ideas/pictures for a stake anvil bench? Bought a complete "set" over the weekend, and need ideas for mounting the stake plate.

Joe Woods -- joe.woods at bsmail.com - Monday, 05/22/00 11:32:01 GMT


I know a fellow with a stake bench made from 1/2" plate (roughly 4' square) that welded prescision tubing (standard PTO) into different locations for stakes and benders. Pretty simple setup, and works really well. Legs are 4" square tubing, 1/4 wall I think, with bands at the top and bottom. This bellies up to his other table if needed for larger stuff.

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Monday, 05/22/00 12:27:59 GMT


Hydraulic pump: Pete, the short answer is that it is theoretically possible. But the actual internals of the pressure compensator may have to be modified. What kind of pump? Vane or piston? If the pressure compensator (which controls the volume of the pump) is integral with the pump, it might not be possible to lower the output pressure to 1/3 without modifying the pressure control. Usually changing the spring(s) would be required.

Hydraulic horsepower = GPM x PSI/1714. That is the power in the oil coming out of the pump. Most pumps are about 90% efficient, so devide the hydraulic horsepower by .9 to get the required motor horsepower to drive the pump. As an example: 10 GPM at 2500 psi requires a motor horsepower of 16.2. So you would need a 20 HP motor since a 16.2 hp motor is not made as a standard. 10 x 2500 / 1714 /.9 =16.2
If you reduce the output pressure to 1/3 or 825 PSI, then you need a motor hp of 5.35 In this case, you might get away with a 5 hp motor that has a 1.1 service factor. Depends on the duty cycle and load profile. In reality, as long as you don't lower the speed, the pump efficiency will go up since when running at lower outlet pressure, a pump will leak less. Hard to quantify, though. Without seeing the internals of the pump you want to modify, I can't give any more specifics.

Do you not need all of the pressure or do you not need all of the flow? If you slow the pump down, to get 1/3 flow at the same pressure, the horsepower required also goes down per the equation above. Slowing down a piston pump might work, but slowing down a vane pump will usually result in more leakage since some vane pumps rely on the centrifugal force on the vanes to help seal against the ring.

Hope this helps. If you want me to look at the actual pump, remove nospam from the address and send me a cross section of the pressure compensator in the pump.

Have a good day.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.comnospam - Monday, 05/22/00 12:53:42 GMT


My husband is starting a business as a pewtersmith. I am looking to have a touchmark made for him as a present. What would be the best type of craftsman to do this for me?

Jennifer Peavey -- jennifer.peavey at sealedair.com - Monday, 05/22/00 17:09:09 GMT


Joe Woods: See our Armour articles. There is a VERY nice heavy wood stake bench.

Jennifer: Centaur Forge (see the banner ads or our directory off the main page) takes orders for a factory service that makes them. Grant Sarver nakedanvil at forgetools.com also makes them. Most blacksmiths (many that post here) can make them. The trick is the design. Some are just initials, many have graphics or a logo. The artistic type are often a very personal decision. A 1/4" tall mark is HUGE, 3/16" is best but for white ware 1/8" may be needed.

GURU FORM: We have some trouble posting from it and have made some changes. Please let me know if you have had trouble with it or try again.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 05/22/00 21:44:44 GMT


JOE WOODS Ebay has them listed all the time, but the price gets wierd sometimes. Normally about 8"x30" and very heavy, BUT I saw Harry Kruppenbach bring one to a class that was a single pipe welded to a flat round floor ring and the top of the pipe had been heated in the forge and brought to a shape to accept the taper of the stake leg. It was neat. Not too heavy and easily portable and I worked at it and liked it.

JOHN L. -- lecount at mindspring.com - Tuesday, 05/23/00 00:41:00 GMT


Thanks Tony....looks close. The pump is a variable volume pump rated at 50 gpm with the pressure compensator bolted inline (think that is what that is). It is rated at 1500 PSI and I only need 1000. It once had a 35HP motor on it; having single PH power ,Im limited to a 10 HP electric motor which has been waiting for this use.
The press has a piston that is about a foot in diameter and my hope is to get enough speed and power from it to do hot forging....assuming there arent any junkyard equiptment suprises (right)...
onward with concurrent project 47, sigh. Thanks again Tony...Pete

Pete Fels -- artgawk at thegrid.net - Tuesday, 05/23/00 08:04:48 GMT


Guru,
Thanks, I forgot about the armour articles. Included in my "set" was a cast-iron stake plate, approx. 9" by 2 ft. It has taken some abuse, and I may or may not use it. Thanks again.
Joe

Joe Woods -- joe.woods at bsmail.com - Tuesday, 05/23/00 11:22:22 GMT


Hydraulic Press: Pete, I love hydraulics. When you get that thing done, please send a pic of it squishing something.

A variable volume pump has the pressure compensator right on the pump and there is usually no additional connection off of it. Anything in line, but just after the pump, might be a pressure relief valve. If there is a in, out and a third line (relieved fluid back to tank) then it's probably a relief. On a variable volume pump, when the outlet pressure of the pump rises to near the compensator setting, the high pressure pushes a piston against a spring to destroke the pump and output volume drops. In the case of a vane pump, the outer vane ring is pushed closer to centered with the rotor. In the case of a piston pump, the swash plate is pushed to be 90 degrees to the pump axis so piston displacement is reduced.

A 12" bore cylinder with 1000 psi on it will give you 113000 pounds of force. A 55 ton press! That would be enough to push quite a bit of hot metal around. (Insert manly grunts here) With a 10 hp motor/pump putting out 1000 psi, the most flow you are going to be able to get at max load is about 15 GPM. That will give you a 12" bore ram speed of 30 inches per minute or .5" per second. That's slow. But you might find that you don't even need 1000 psi for some work. If you keep the valving and fluid lines large enough so that the pressure drop is small, the 10 hp motor might run the pump at full stroke (50 gpm) when the ram is moving, but not touching the work yet. This will give you more ram speed when the die hits the work and result in more energy trasfer to the work. (more squish) I'm neglecting inertia, reaction time of the compensator and friction. Friction may not be much of an issue, but reaction time of the compensator might and inertia of the system might bring the 10 hp motor to it's knees too. When the ram encounters the work and if the pump is stroked open, the 10 hp motor may die before the compensator destrokes the pump. You'll have to try it. Sounds like fun!

Concurrent projects is a way of life......isn't it? 47 sounds a bit on the high side. I start to lose what little sanity I have at about 25. But I cheat and have the low interest ones on a separate list.(grin)

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.comnospam - Tuesday, 05/23/00 13:38:30 GMT


Hyrdaulic Press: Tony, Great info. Folks easily get confused about HP and pressure/volume. A small motor can make tremondous hydraulic pressure but at volumes so low that the cylinder moves so slow that it useless for forging. When forging hot metal time is of the essence. The slower the press the more time the metal has to cool. You have to have the pressure AND the volume and this is the hydraulic definition of lots of HP.

55 tons! Pete, you should be able to do a LOT of bending with that! You might be better off with a lot smaller cylinder for forging.

Of course "optimization" is NOT a word at the top of the JYH builder's vocabulary!

47 Concurrent projects is normal for maintaining a busy web page! 'Life' what's that?

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 05/23/00 18:53:29 GMT


Hydraulic press speed: Yeah, I was thinking about the work cooling down in a slow press too. For a hydraulic press where impact is not much of the equation, and open dies, one might be able to add an insulating layer under the dies so less heat is lost to the dies. Can't do much about the loss to atmosphere. There is a fiber product called Fabrica that has a very good compressive strength and memory. It should work between dies and structure. Obviously not a good idea for an impact hammer though.

And I forgot something, Pete. If the hammer speed and stroke does not need to be controlled closely, add an accumulator between the pump and
cylinder control valve. You could speed up the cylinder travel dramatically if there is any dwell in the cylinder stroke. (down, up, stop and wait, down, up, etc.)If the work requires that the cylinder be moving continuously, the accumulator won't work.

Life?
You asked, (grin) My guess is as follows...

Life is what you are doing and have done.
The accomplishments and the actions.
Good or bad, As judged by those who look.
No more, and certainly no less!

From the 6 months I have been looking, I'd say your life is pretty full. And those who look seem to judge favorably.

There are those who say we are doing what we are because that is what we really want to be doing. I'm not sure I agree with that, but it is another viewpoint.

Woodrow Wilson said: You are not here merely to make a living. You are here in order to enable the world to live more amply, with greater vision, with a finer spirit of hope and achievement. You are here to enrich the world, and you impoverish yourself if you forget the errand.

Now, what can we accomplish next? Ooops, better go back to DO something on the list instead of ADD something to the list.

On second thought.........(big grin)

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.comnospam - Tuesday, 05/23/00 21:37:29 GMT


Tony; you win the Great Answers of the Week award!
APPLAUSE!!!! Thank you both, Pete

Pete Fels -- artgawk at thegrid.net - Wednesday, 05/24/00 01:24:15 GMT


Tony; you win the Great Answers of the Week award!
APPLAUSE!!!! Thank you both, Pete

Pete Fels -- artgawk at thegrid.net - Wednesday, 05/24/00 01:25:29 GMT


Oops sorry about the double post, then again...
The delusion I was fostering was that the 50 GPM of the variable volume pump would get the dies into position fast enough for hot work because there would be little resistance 'till contact: at which point a much more modest rate of travel might be acceptable if it was a tad inexorable.
The thing that first came to mind on reading your answers (after laughter) was the 4 1/2 foot cast iron flywheel on the big shaft out in the yard. The tank does sport 2 small accumulators, but too small.
Might be hard to protect the pump bearings from the flywheel and much too big for in the shop...but a funny image.....Pete

Pete again - Wednesday, 05/24/00 01:37:42 GMT


Pete, Before talking about large flywheels you'd better take a close look a Tony's JYH. . . :)

UH. . . Run the flywheel outdoors and connect to the pump via belt and back shaft. .

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 05/24/00 03:35:18 GMT


The prospect is plain charming. The journals and frame are back up a wild (!)canyon at an abandoned mercury mine. Maybe if they reopen the dirt road some time I can get my flatbed back there. It was pretty hairy last time and I took out a 6" sycamore limb with the truck boom skidding across a creek. A huge mountain lion back there keeps snacking on the caretaker's dogs and cats.

Pete - Wednesday, 05/24/00 07:51:11 GMT


Flywheel: Pete, do it! Jackshaft and belt from the motor as Jock suggested. Drive the pump from the jackshaft with a coupling to keep pump bearing loads down. If it had a 35 hp motor before, it should take quite a load anyway. Ooooooo, it needs to be done, Pete. Much better to have all of that spine tingling energy storage on the drive side of the pump too. My flywheel is smaller, (33"od) a bit over 300 pounds and runs very smooth. It takes 3 minutes to come to a stop once the power is turned off and the bearings are a little crunchy. V-flat drive from the motor to the flywheel rim. Machinerys Handbook has all of the flywheel info you need. Safe speed, hp, etc. Take the chainsaw and the rifle?

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.comnospam - Wednesday, 05/24/00 15:16:39 GMT


I am having inclusion problems on forge welded cable.Any ideas or techniques?

steve -- stevespenc at aol.com - Wednesday, 05/24/00 20:40:06 GMT


I am having inclusion problems on forge welded cable.Any ideas or techniques?

steve -- stevespenc at aol.com - Wednesday, 05/24/00 20:41:38 GMT


Pete-

Where is the mercurey mine? When I was a kid I surveyed a lot of old No. Calif mines for the State. Inventoried and reported on what was still there. That was mid 1950s. Fun. One place in Napa county still had a complete blacksmith shop in those days.

Nice day here in SE TN

John

John Odom -- jodom at vol.com - Wednesday, 05/24/00 23:36:55 GMT


Never strike pure MOLY while it's cold!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ed Simpson -- janrae5 - Thursday, 05/25/00 01:23:50 GMT


You guys...now youve got me thinking half seriously about the sillydamn flywheel...don't i have enough bad influences yet?
John: It was the Polar star mine, up the San Carporforo cr in northern San luis Obispo county. There was some splendid junk there before they"cleaned it up"...but they didnt look in the poison oak....Pete

Pete - Thursday, 05/25/00 05:51:22 GMT


Hello, I had a question about making a hood for my riveters forge. I was wondering if I made a hood and then used a metal flexible steel hose from a clothes dryer vent as the flue, do you think that would draw? I can't cut a hole in my garage so I want to try something like that. Thanks Steve

Steve Crabtree -- coolcrabster at aol.com - Friday, 05/26/00 17:38:30 GMT


Hello, I had a question about making a hood for my riveters forge. I was wondering if I made a hood and then used a metal flexible steel hose from a clothes dryer vent as the flue, do you think that would draw? I can't cut a hole in my garage so I want to try something like that. Thanks Steve

Steve Crabtree -- coolcrabster at aol.com - Friday, 05/26/00 17:38:58 GMT


I have a fully restored Champion Blower Forge Co - Mechanical Drill Press, No 203 1/2; Patent #767282; Manufactured August 4, 1904. I am looking for the operators manuals for this press. Does anybody have them or know where I can get them? email me at spostan at home.com. Looking forward to hearing from someone. Thank you. Selwyn Postan

Selwyn Postan -- spostan at home.com - Friday, 05/26/00 18:17:15 GMT


I'm just getting started in blacksmithing. I'm living in England at the moment getting ready to relocate back to the good ol' USA in Ohio. I've managed to get a few things like an anvil, 2-stage bellows, and some other tools. I've found some post vices (not great shape and about $40 each)and i was wondering about the availability of them in the states. Any advice out there would be appreciated. Cheers!!

Allen Box -- aj at box2.freeserve.co.uk - Saturday, 05/27/00 19:03:07 GMT


I'm just getting started in blacksmithing. I'm living in England at the moment getting ready to relocate back to the good ol' USA in Ohio. I've managed to get a few things like an anvil, 2-stage bellows, and some other tools. I've found some post vices (not great shape and about $40 each)and i was wondering about the availability of them in the states. Any advice out there would be appreciated. Cheers!!

Allen Box -- aj at box2.freeserve.co.uk - Saturday, 05/27/00 19:08:12 GMT


Guru and Friends..Ordered Dave Menzer's video tape on power hammers. I have watched it about 6 times and each time I learn a little more about these sometimes dysfunctional hammers. I have had a fear of the unknown as far as taking the hammer apart or making adjustments. Well long story short..I disassembled my 25# LG Friday..changed the clutch material (someone had used a rubber conveyor belt) and replaced with 1/4" leather..minor adjustments to the linkage arms...Shazam!!! Amazing how much control from light taps to heavy hits. Daves video is great..I recommend it to anyone who has a mechanical hammer that dosent run correctly...and thanks guru and anvilfire for making me aware.

Randy Guess -- rdguess at bellsouth.net - Sunday, 05/28/00 22:34:19 GMT


Sorry Dave, I spelled your last name wrong.

R. Guess -- rdguess at bellsouth.net - Sunday, 05/28/00 22:39:39 GMT


I have a few Flatners {Hammers} What would the average length of their handles be.. The ones on there now are very short..

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Sunday, 05/28/00 23:49:12 GMT


Barney,

First of all, a flatter is not a hammer. It is a handled tool, intended to be struck by a hammer.

Most of the ones I have and have seen have handles from 12" to 1`4" in length.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 05/29/00 00:38:20 GMT


That's supposed to me 14 INCHES, not 1'4". Darn itty bitty keyboard!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 05/29/00 04:15:04 GMT


Hi,
I`m looking for an old set (or even just parts of a set) of forging stakes in smallish to medium sizes for work with soft metals (silver, copper, brass...). The stakes can well be a little rusty aince I have no problem with the use of sandpaper.

Morgan Fayland -- Sparrow1 at excite.com - Monday, 05/29/00 08:11:15 GMT


GOOD NEWS: Will have guru page back on-line this week as soon as we get members system setup and page redesigned.

STEVE CRABTREE: Dryer vent is generaly too small. Without a stack it takes a relatively powerful exhaust blower on a forge. Hoods suck up too much extra cold air. Look at side draft forge flues (see last pages of ABANA edition of the NEWS).

SELWYN: There were no maunals for these tools when they were new. Factories expected mechanics to be using them that could figure them out. The OLD machinist manuals have instructions for the floor models but this is mostly how to drill a hole, furniture and clamping. The rest they expect you to figure out or use general machine tool methods.

ALLEN BOX: Box vises. . . OLD ones are relative available but typically sell for $75 to $150 with heavy ones selling for more. I'd buy every one I could at $40 each. . Don't know what its going to cost you to get them here though. . .

PAW PAW: 1'-4" is only 16". . . That still works! :)

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 05/29/00 19:12:23 GMT


Hi Guys,
Been awhile since I checked in, (got a new email address, too). Was just wondering if there are any English Wheels out there in cyber-land for sale, or if anyone has a decent picture of one a fella could use as a model to build one?

Mike -- wcfarm at jbntelco.com - Monday, 05/29/00 20:23:45 GMT


Jock,

That is SUPER news about the guru's page!

re 1'4" = 16"

Yea, I know. It wasn't so much the dimension that ticked me of, it was my mis-typed dimension.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 05/30/00 02:42:11 GMT


me of, SHOULD BE me off.

Darnit!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forg.eocm - Tuesday, 05/30/00 02:43:51 GMT


Coal... I just got some Blksmths coal in.. What is the difference between. Furance Coal and Ours.. I place a handful of each side by side. They look the same..SOmething to do with heat ?

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Tuesday, 05/30/00 16:35:02 GMT


COAL: Barney coal is an organic based mineral. The organic materials it was created from varied in constituants haveing varying levels of minerals and sulfur. In the process of becoming mineral it picks up varying levels of mineral silt. Coal can vary infinitely from 'not coal' ie slate, which is clay stained with organic carbon, to almost pure carbon. On the the high carbon end there are coals with high levels of volitiles (petroleum) which makes coal soft to the very nearly pure carbon hard coals.

This infinite variety of coal can often be found within a few feet in a seam of coal. The best smithing coal has low ash (mineral content) but not too low, some volitiles but not too much, and low sulfur. This grade is very high BTU, burns clean and the ash coaleces into small managable clinkers. The volitiles make it easy to keep burning and alows it to stick together and makes it porus while coking down.

It pretty much all looks alike to the uninitiated and only the worst coal can be identified visualy.

Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 05/30/00 17:06:55 GMT


Re: Coal

I spent many years in a commercial lab sampling and analyzing coal for both producers and buyers. Jock is right, Coal is a very complicated material. I know a lot about it but the more I learn the less I know.
The one thing you can be sure of is that you can't tell by looking, and mine-run coal is very non-homogeneous!

For smithing you want moderate volatiles, High btu, low ash and low sulfur. Coal that is purchased for coking is good stuff. Our local coke plant shut down about 12 yrs ago and I am nearly out of that coal. All of the locally produced metalurgical coal is going to Japan. I'm building a pdopane forge!

John Odom, in Chattanooga, TN

John Odom -- jodom at vol.com - Tuesday, 05/30/00 20:30:04 GMT


Thankyou folks...I will use up what furance coal I have {150 pds} And slowly work into the good stuff I got today...

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Tuesday, 05/30/00 21:50:38 GMT


I am haveing trouble finding out some info on aluminum. What I need to know is what is the melting point of it and how to maintain the temp to do it. Also need to know how to indentify the type of aluminum that i need to build a hollow object in a mold of sorts and it has strong durabilty but still maintains it's lightness, it can not be more than a 1/16" thick on the walls and has to be pretty durable and not loose it's shape very easily.And need to know what i need to make the molds out of so that they don't melt when poured.If you could really help on this I would sure be gratefull. I researched it a little on the net but always find dead ends and no answers. Thanks.

Scott -- muttly33 at swbell.net - Wednesday, 05/31/00 07:15:33 GMT


Aluminum: Hi Scott, what shape are you trying to mold from aluminum and what is the intended end use? If you are making a hollow casting, it will be extremely difficult to have only 1/16" wall thickness. If the wall thickness can only be 1/16", and the shape is suitable, you may want to consider spinning pieces over a wood form on a lathe and tig welding them together. Another option depending on shape is to press the aluminum over or into a hardwood block form that you would make first. Alloy selection is based on a number of things. Corrosion potential, strength, methods of work required, etc. We need to know more about what you are trying to make and how and where it will be used.

Pure aluminum melts at 660 C or 1220 F. Alloys modify the melting temperature slightly.

Have fun.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.comnospam - Wednesday, 05/31/00 12:33:59 GMT


Silver plating: I have some large platters that have the plating coming off. One is brass underneath the other is copper.. How can I remove the plating. They are approx 14" across the center..

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Wednesday, 05/31/00 14:34:08 GMT


Silver plating: I have some large platters that have the plating coming off. One is brass underneath the other is copper.. How can I remove the plating. They are approx 14" across the center..

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Wednesday, 05/31/00 14:34:24 GMT


I'm located in India & have a forging unit in the name of M/s. Anvil Forge Pvt. Ltd. I basically is intreasted in exporting componenets. Any serious buyer may pl. contact me on my e-mail

R. S. Krishna -- rskrishna at id.eth.net - Wednesday, 05/31/00 17:35:18 GMT



Counter   Copyright © 2001 Jock Dempsey, www.anvilfire.com Cummulative_Arc GSC