anvilfire.com flaming anvil trademark logo copyright (c) 1998 Patrick J. Dempsey
     HOME!   |   STORE   |   Getting Started in Blacksmithing    
 

Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty

p.178, HAND FORGING, leaf, plates, surface plate, hammered, wooden mallet, straighten, holes, drilled, angles, riveted, escutcheon plate, latch, forged, drawing, square hole, rivet, square soft steel, veined, taper, twisted, soft wire, tenon, swaged, riveted, countersunk-head screw
   About the Book   
   Book Cover   
   Frontispiece   
   Table of Contents   
    < PREV          NEXT >   

 


    < PREV          NEXT >   

p.178 HAND-FORGING the insertion deeper at the front of the lobe. After all the leaf ends are finished in this manner the plates are heated and laid on a surface plate with the face up. They are then hammered with a wooden mallet to straighten them. All of the holes are drilled and the angles are riveted to the back of the escutcheon plate. The latch is next forged, and a hole drilled as shown in the drawing. It is then inserted into the square hole of the escutcheon, and a rivet is put through angles and latch. The handles are forged from 5/8-in. square soft steel. The bottom part is the first forged, and it is veined as shown. The stock is drawn on a taper and twisted. The length is found by measuring with a soft wire. A 1/2-in. tenon is swaged at the end. The handle is formed by heating the top part and bending it over a piece of hard wood, using a wooden mallet to hammer with. The handle is now riveted to the escutcheon. A rivet is used in the bottom part, and the tenon at the top is riveted into the plate from the back. A hole is drilled and tapped into the tenon for a 1/4-in countersunk-head screw. This is done to help fasten the plate onto the door. The screw is run through the door from the inside into the handle.

Page Counter All Page Counter anvilfire.com General Site
Copyright © 2009 anvilfire.com