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Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty

p.182,	HAND FORGING, sheet, pattern, plates, hammering, wooden mallet, surface plate, angles, bend, vise, flat iron, drilled, shade, awl, countersunk, rivets, rivet, forming, drawing, anvil, hammer
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p.182 HAND-FORGING will stretch it in places so that the sheet will not be level. When all the parts are cut out the work is filed to fit the pattern. The plates are then made level by hammering them with a wooden mallet on a surface plate. The angles are next made from the same size stock. They are cut longer than necessary and 1 in. wide. To bend them as shown at A they are caught in a vise between two pieces of flat iron, leaving one-half of their width above the edges of the pieces. They are bent to the proper angle by hammering. The holes are next drilled with a 1/8-in. drill. The angles are then held in place on the corners of the shade, marking through the holes with an awl. The holes are then drilled and countersunk on the under side for the head of rivets. A rivet set is used on the outside. The top of the angle must start 3/8 in. below the top of the shade, for the reason that the cap is to be riveted at the top of the shade and there must be a smooth place for it to fit on. The cap is next made. The shape of the cap before forming is shown at B. It is heated, and 3/8 in. of the edge is bent as shown by the dotted lines on the drawing. It may be bent over the edge of a square block that fits the hole in the anvil. The final fitting is done while the piece is cold by using the hammer and also filing the edges to fit against the top of the corner angles. After

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