anvilfire.com flaming anvil trademark logo copyright (c) 1998 Patrick J. Dempsey
     HOME!  |  STORE  |  Getting Started in Blacksmithing  
 

Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty

FORGING, forge, tongs, square, Swedish iron, anvil, taper, jaw, hammered, chisel, shank, welded, scarfed, Fig. 6, Jaw, Fuller Mark, handle, helper, strike, sledge
   About the Book   
   Book Cover   
   Frontispiece   
   Table of Contents   
    < PREV          NEXT >   



    < PREV          NEXT >   

32 HAND-FORGING To forge a pair of tongs from 3/4-in. square Swedish iron, the bar is heated and about 1-1/8 in. is set on the inner edge of the anvil, keeping the bar at right angles to the long way of anvil. It is then flattened to about 1 in. thick, letting it taper near the end. This will form the flat part of the jaw. See Fig. 5, at A. The bar is next turned one-quarter over, set on the outer edge of the anvil and flattened as at B. It is again turned and hammered as at C. The jaw is now cut from the bar with a hot chisel, leaving a shank long enough so that a handle can be welded to it. This shank should be drawn out to the proper size and scarfed. It should now look as at D, Fig. 6. Jaw with Fuller Mark ready to be welded to the handle. In forging the jaw as explained above there should be a welding heat taken on the bar, and when hammering a helper should strike it with a sledge. The entire jaw should be made with this heat. If there is no helper, of course, more than one heat is neces-

Page Counter All Page Counter anvilfire.com General Site
Copyright © 2009 anvilfire.com