anvilfire.com flaming anvil trademark logo copyright (c) 1998 Patrick J. Dempsey
     HOME!  |  STORE  |  Getting Started in Blacksmithing  
 

Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty

SCARF WELDING, upset, fire, flux, borax, welding compound, lap weld, heat, coke, cherry red, blast, temperature, heat, fluxed, iron, lapped, hammered, chisel, filed, Riveting, splicing, T Weld
   About the Book   
   Book Cover   
   Frontispiece   
   Table of Contents   
    < PREV          NEXT >   



    < PREV          NEXT >   

SCARF WELDING 57 not upset. The fire must be small and clean; there should be a flux of some kind used, such as borax or some welding compound. To make the end-to-end or lap weld with a piece of stock 1/16 in. by 1/2 in., heat about 3/4-in. of the ends in a fire that is open, without very much coke over the pieces. There ought to be a clean bed of coke under them. When the ends are a little more than cherry red, the blast is shut off. Some welding compound is then put on the sides that are turned up in the fire. The blast should be turned on slowly. As the temperature of the pieces is rising to the welding heat, they are turned over in the fire with the fluxed side down. Next a little more blast should be turned on. The heat is right when .the pieces are at a little lower temperature than the regular white heat for iron. When hot enough, the pieces are brought to the anvil in the same manner as previously described for other welding. They are lapped about % or ~ in. and welded by striking with the hammer on two sides—the flat sides. The edges must not be hammered; they should be cut off with a chisel and then ground or filed to size. This kind of stock should always be welded with separate heats. Riveting or splicing together by splitting the laps should not be done. T Weld with Round Iron.—The scarf depends on the size of stock. Pieces 3/4 in. and larger

Page Counter All Page Counter anvilfire.com General Site
Copyright © 2009 anvilfire.com