Some tools to drool over.  Image (c) 1998 Jock Dempsey WELCOME to the
Virtual Hammer-In!

This page is open to ALL for the purpose of advancing blacksmithing.
March - April 2000 Archive

WHY THREE FORUMS? Well, this is YOUR blacksmithing forum to use for whatever you wish within the rules stated above. It is different than the Slack-Tub Pub because the messages are permanently posted and archived.

Our chat, the (Slack-Tub Pub), is immediate but the record of it temporary. Do not post permanent messages there. We refresh the "log" every couple days now and your message will be lost.

The Guru's Den is where I and several others try to answer ALL your questions to us.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, 07/27/98 & 03/01/99


Hi everyone, Well I got my man a coal powered forge. that was the easy part. The hard part as we all know is getting an anvil. I think It would be better to get a heavy one. that saves trying to find a heavier one later. If any one has one in the Portland/surounding area's forsale PLEASE LET ME KNOW. Any other items such as a black smith's vice (i think they're called that). I am open for any info. I would really like to supply all the needed equipment for him to play with ;) Thanks

Flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Thursday, 03/02/00 05:54:25 GMT


I Have a Little Giant 25 pound trip hammer I am wanting to sell, Iwas wondering if any of ya'll would be interested. It has been completly rebuilt, and is in emaculate condition.

Brandon Ward -- Tritanw at aol.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 06:11:17 GMT


I'm looking to buy or trade for a #25 Little giant. I have an extra
#50 Little Giant to trade.....or cash. In near Denver Colorado.

TiredIron -- walt054 at ibm.net - Thursday, 03/02/00 06:25:35 GMT


Petrogen Torch:

If you read CAREFULLY you can find where the site says that you can save up to $800/month and that is ALLMOST the cost of the torch system. My guess is that the system is priced at about $999.99
It is a nice tool though but you need to do a lot of cutting to make it pay!

Wayne Parris -- benthar at pacbell.net - Thursday, 03/02/00 14:00:59 GMT


Flora, try Valley Farrier Supply in Beavercreek. They have anvils there but I am not sure how big they go. Probably nothing over 150#. They are in the Portland phone book. They are a great place to get forging coal also.

Clint -- bearsden at tdn.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 14:31:11 GMT


WCFarm at parod.com
Hi
They quoted me $975. for the basic set by email
and are
sending me a catalog Iam impressed with it for
cutting heavy metal. If you email them your
address they will send a catolog with specs.
I think that they are on the up & up as I got
an email from a guy that has one and he said
that he would not trade it for any other type
of cutting torch. Iam tired of trying to machine
cuts that have been made with Acyt. they are so
hard they have to be ground first. Acyt also dont
cut round bars very good in good alloy stock.

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 18:41:59 GMT


WCFarm at parod.com
Hi
They quoted me $975. for the basic set by email
and are
sending me a catalog Iam impressed with it for
cutting heavy metal. If you email them your
address they will send a catolog with specs.
I think that they are on the up & up as I got
an email from a guy that has one and he said
that he would not trade it for any other type
of cutting torch. Iam tired of trying to machine
cuts that have been made with Acyt. they are so
hard they have to be ground first. Acyt also dont
cut round bars very good in good alloy stock.

You can find info on this torch at
http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb874451

or at

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 18:44:19 GMT
WCFarm at parod.com
Hi
They quoted me $975. for the basic set by email
and are
sending me a catalog Iam impressed with it for
cutting heavy metal. If you email them your
address they will send a catolog with specs.
I think that they are on the up & up as I got
an email from a guy that has one and he said
that he would not trade it for any other type
of cutting torch. Iam tired of trying to machine
cuts that have been made with Acyt. they are so
hard they have to be ground first. Acyt also dont
cut round bars very good in good alloy stock.

You can find info on this torch at
http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb874451

or at

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 18:44:50 GMT
Sorry for the multilple post it wasnt sending
or so I thought
Tom

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 18:52:16 GMT


Sorry for the multilple post it wasnt sending
or so I thought
Tom

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 18:58:52 GMT


any blacksmiths in Michigan, more precisely South east mich? I'll be moving back in a year or more and want to know an group to join. I am in the ALex Bealer North Georgia Association now. Write me off this at Flaminganvil at yahoo.com

jeff spoor -- flaminganvil at yahoo.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 19:36:24 GMT


I have 25 pound little giant trip hammer Iwould like to sell. It has been completly rebiult and is in great sape

Brandon Ward -- Tritanw at aol.com - Thursday, 03/02/00 20:52:51 GMT


I am look for plans for scroll former for 3/8 to 1/2 inch round and square stock

dan matte -- matte at jet2.net - Saturday, 03/04/00 20:29:01 GMT


tom, do you know anyone that has this gasoline torch? Interesting deal...I suppose it has a laybrinth os something to convert liquid to gas (or a generator like a coleman). Like to see it work, and how safe it is. Could maybe sell it then!

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Sunday, 03/05/00 06:51:34 GMT


tom, do you know anyone that has this gasoline torch? Interesting deal...I suppose it has a laybrinth os something to convert liquid to gas (or a generator like a coleman). Like to see it work, and how safe it is. Could maybe sell it then!

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Sunday, 03/05/00 06:51:52 GMT


Weird deal on the double Guru, Or Jim, Or Kiwi. I only nailed it once.

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Sunday, 03/05/00 06:54:49 GMT


Steve,

Stuff happens.

On the Petrogen Torch, I agree that I'd like to see one in operation. I got their brochure package in yesterday. Interesting, if a little pricey. $975 for the basic setup. With a good Victor set going for under #300, I can burn a lot of acetylene for the difference in purchase cost.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Sunday, 03/05/00 13:42:18 GMT


Just a note for other beginners out there. I've been tinkering with metal working for a little while now but recently became more interested. I discovered that I was wasting a great deal of my charcoal which takes several hours to render down. I had been filling the entire bowl of my forge with fuel and of course I was only using about a third of it to actually heat the metal. I figured out that I could wall off the bowl with steel plate and burn only in the area that I would be working in. I basicaly built a simple insert that I can remove or change out with a larger insert depending on the size of the piece I was working on. Overall I spent about six hours cutting and welding the plate and rebar and my first test run extended my coal supply to six hours from two and a half! Hope this helps some of you out there. If anyone would like a description of how I did it just e-mail me.

Bill -- w.stone at gte.net - Monday, 03/06/00 01:29:38 GMT


Yeah Jim, and a lot of LP too.

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Monday, 03/06/00 04:36:21 GMT


Paw Paw, I can demo a forge hood if you'd like. Works real good.

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Monday, 03/06/00 04:38:19 GMT


Steve O.

Or Propane for that matter.

Contact the guru at webmaster at anvilfire.com with your offer to demo a forge hood. I'm sure he'll be interested.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 03/06/00 20:37:16 GMT


Sorry aout the delayed archive!

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 03/06/00 22:21:14 GMT


Hey paw paw.. so this is where you hang out. Read Grant's note about barrel burning charcoal? Got lots of cut-off hardwood around here so will maybe give that one a try. Let you know what happens..

Uncle Goodcrank -- production_wheel at yahoo.com - Tuesday, 03/07/00 07:23:33 GMT


Hi Unk!

Yep, here and the guru's page more than anywhere else.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/07/00 13:12:33 GMT


Need some help. I work alone and am having a problem. I have a top & bottom die for making half inch round bar, but I only have two hands. The pieces I'm working with are short and I can't hold them with the tongs and the top die and hammer all at the same time. Can anyone give me some help. Thanks.

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Wednesday, 03/08/00 04:07:08 GMT


Steve,

Can you weld a piece of strap to the end of both dies, and then weld a hardy shank to the strap? If the strap is bent into a U, you could use it like a spring fuller. Set into the hardy hole of your anvil, even slot the shank and wedge it into the hardy hole. Then you can hold the stock with one hand and the hammer in the other to strike.

Paw Paw Wilson -- paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 03/08/00 04:21:48 GMT


Paw Paw,
Thanks for the tip.

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Wednesday, 03/08/00 14:42:26 GMT


Steve,

No problem, that's why we're here, to help each other. I've got a rope die made by Off Center Products that works quite well made that way.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 03/08/00 18:15:05 GMT


I'm looking for someone who can do small brass casting for local clockmaker in Charlottesville VA

Bruce Dembling -- dembling at virginia.edu - Wednesday, 03/08/00 18:26:16 GMT


Bruce,

Contact the webmaster, Jock Dempsey. (webmaster at anvilfire.com) I know he's done some bras casting in the past.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 03/08/00 22:16:32 GMT


I am looking to get started and I would like to purchase a coal forge
new or used is ok.

Terry Bostick -- bositck at flash.net - Thursday, 03/09/00 21:14:48 GMT


I am looking to get started and I would like to purchase a coal forge
new or used is ok.

Terry Bostick -- bositck at flash.net - Thursday, 03/09/00 21:15:45 GMT


Hey there...

Any good information for someone looking to get started in the Ontario area? I'm specifically looking for A) used gear and B) good general info for someone who's had some experience working with metal (just not in the forging world...)

Oh... and this site seems to have a great amount of info. Anyone have a good source for blowers? I might just try to build myself one of the 'brake drum forge' but I need the air...

Rafael.

Rafael Gomez -- rgomez at thenew.net - Thursday, 03/09/00 22:49:00 GMT


Terry,

On the plans page, there are plans for building a couple of different forges out of scrap material. You might want to take a shot at building your own. You'll learn quite a bit in the process, and they're actually pretty easy to do.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-apws-forge.com - Friday, 03/10/00 02:35:20 GMT


Rafael,

Almost any small air device, (hair dryer, heater fan out of a car, etc.) will do the job for you.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.vom - Friday, 03/10/00 02:36:53 GMT


Looking for info on a 147lb. J.Wilkeyson anvil bought.

Mike Tucker -- miketucker3 at hotmail.com - Friday, 03/10/00 03:24:29 GMT


Mike,

What information are you looking for? And what markings can you find on the anvil?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 03/10/00 03:35:16 GMT


Some friends of mine were given some "foundry coke" and are trying to make it work as fuel in a small coal forge. Their complaint is that if they slack up on the air very much at all the fire goes out pretty fast. Are we barking up the wrong tree or is there a way to make foundry coke work in a small coal forge?

Erik -- irongld at bellsouth.net - Friday, 03/10/00 20:55:00 GMT


I BUY ANVILS and any other blacksmith related items. Anvils, hammers, forges, swage blocks, mandrels, power hammers, etc. I am always trying to improve the tools in my shop and besides I love all these old tools!!! I am really looking for a BIG ANVIL up to 1,000 pounds, but that is kind of a dream. I am also interested in old ball peen hammers. I guess you can say I collect these tools, but with my budget I can't give a collectors price! However, I will give a good price for good conditioned items. I am in Springfield, MO so the closer you are, the more I can pay! Thanks Guys!!!!
Riverdale Forge

Ryan Wasson -- krw996s at mail.smsu.edu - Saturday, 03/11/00 02:33:47 GMT


Erik,

Two things you can do to make it work a little better.

1. Break the foundry coke up into small pieces. Not much over the size of your first thumb joint.

2. Second, mix it with regular coal. About 50 - 50.

But it will still need a lot of air. It works well, but it's a different technique than straight coal.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 03/11/00 02:59:53 GMT


I am considering building a Kinyon type air-hammer. I am fairly new to fabrication, as well as blacksmithing, but the hammer seems simple enough. I think it would help to see one though. Is there anyone in the NW ( I am in Wenatchee, WA ) that has built one and would not mind a look-see. Thx's.

Fred -- jyblood at nwi.net - Sunday, 03/12/00 06:46:59 GMT


I am considering building a Kinyon type air-hammer. I am fairly new to fabrication, as well as blacksmithing, but the hammer seems simple enough. I think it would help to see one though. Is there anyone in the NW ( I am in Wenatchee, WA ) that has built one and would not mind a look-see. Thx's.

Fred -- jyblood at nwi.net - Sunday, 03/12/00 06:47:16 GMT


Spring Fling 2000

Sponsored by the Blacksmith's Guild of the Potomac on April 15 & 16 at the Fairfax Wildlife Club in Louden County, Virginia, near the Washington Metropolitan Area.

This year the demonstrations will feature Uri Hofi from Israel and the Blacksmiths and Gunsmiths from Williamsburg. There will also be auctions, tail gating, iron-in-the-hat, good food and good company.

If I have it ready, I hope to have my Renaissance Junk Yard Hammer there.

Cost is $45.00. PRE-REGISTRATION IS A MUST, NO MORE THAN 275 PEOPLE,
AND A CUT-OFF DATE OF APRIL 1.

Contact Chris Worsley at 4203 Javins Dr., Alexandria, VA 22310-2040.

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Sunday, 03/12/00 13:19:05 GMT


Fred, Also am building a Kinyon style hammer. It has been quite an education in metal. I did not have much experience with building this type of equipment so have proceeded very carefully during construction of the hammer. The most important thing is to get information on the effects of welding "warpage". Welding even large pieces can warp them like a potato chip if you're not careful. Shimming and careful measuring of the guide is the other thing that must be done with precision or your hammer will be a piece of junk. Any help I can offer , just let me know. TC blacksmith at starsticker.com

Tim Cisneros -- blacksmith at starsticker.com - Sunday, 03/12/00 14:19:15 GMT


Does anyone know of a local source of blacksmithing coal, coke or
charcoal in Alaska?
If it can be shipped reasonably that would be an option to.
Thanks, Jim

Jim Ellis -- ellis7 at westriv.com - Monday, 03/13/00 02:37:30 GMT


howdy from jefferson territory
appreciate all the help and infoormation on this site! i'm looking for a book title, on examples and techniques of southwest/texas style blacksmiths. any suggestions, or recommendations?

Rick -- georgeforge at hotmail.com - Tuesday, 03/14/00 03:37:17 GMT


Greetings fellow blacksmiths! my first visit to this forum. I'm almost a novice to smithing, have been at it about three years. I've been using a coal forge with good success but obtained an old Johnson Gas Forge at an auction quite some time ago and failed to find out from the owner whether it used LP or natural gas. It has a 3/4" flex hose for a supply. Does anyone know how to tell which. Also at what gas pressures for the different types of fuel? It has an electric solenoid, a blower that sounds like a jet engine and 4 burners. I'm a little bit scared of it but if I can get some info on gas supply I might use it for heating long pieces for scrollwork and such. Thanks for any help!

Rich -- rstephen at datastream.net - Tuesday, 03/14/00 05:30:14 GMT


anyone busy working at the forge

s wright - Thursday, 03/16/00 00:56:23 GMT


ive just purchaced a linisher and it may sound daft but how do i work out the size of the belt required.

DAVIDWRIGHT -- DAVIDWRIGHT at fsbusiness.co.uk - Thursday, 03/16/00 01:16:48 GMT


Looking for any input on building a press brake in the 150 ton or more range. Have quite a few ideas of my own but always like to start a project with as much info as I can. Thanks

randy -- weldor at netins.net - Thursday, 03/16/00 14:30:06 GMT


Randy need more info on the length of the press brake? what type of power ( mechanical, hydraulic or air) I would be glad to help you with any ? you have .

Dave L -- jetjockey at ironworks.reno.nv.us - Saturday, 03/18/00 09:39:47 GMT


I am currently looking for a couple of anvils in the 140# to 200# range haybudens, trenton or peter wright. The anvils are for the new comers in the classes I'm helping with here in Nevada thru the california blacksmiths. I would sure be grateful with any help in there pursuit. Thanks !!!

Dave L -- jetjockey at ironworks.reno.nv.us - Saturday, 03/18/00 09:54:14 GMT


Rick,

Check the book shelf here at anvilfire. (from the main page, it's on the menu bar to the left) I did a review a few months ago about the only book I know of that fits your needs.

Rich,

I'd strongly urge you to re-post your question on the guru's page. He's far better qualified to answer you question than I am. But I can tell you that the biggest difference between an LP forge and a NG forge is the size of the orifice that the gas flows through. As for the noise, that's common with atmospheric forges.

David, you also need to post your question on the guru's page.

Dave L.

Contact Bruce Wallace on the links page. Bruce buys and sells lots of used equipment, and he will deal honestly with you.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 03/18/00 14:43:19 GMT


Southwest/Texas style backsmithing

For some pictures you might want to try http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/
001d5.htm I thought it was neat.

Jim Ellis

Jim Ellis -- ellis7 at westriv.com - Saturday, 03/18/00 17:36:57 GMT


Jim Ellis,

Nice reference, and nice pictures. Thanks!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Sunday, 03/19/00 01:13:37 GMT


Thanks for the info Paw Paw

Dave L -- jetjockey at ironworks.reno.nv.us - Sunday, 03/19/00 07:13:44 GMT


thanx to both of you for the tip. enjoyed the review and the website hats off to Frank Turley! also thanx to the archives i've gleaned info that has been a great help! greetings from jefferson territory

Rick -- georgeforge at hotmail.com - Sunday, 03/19/00 07:42:09 GMT


Its almost time to break out the tractors and riding lawnmowers. 2 years ago I lost my best friend and blacksmithing partner to a rollover accident at Hawethorn Park in TerreHaute Indiana. Please consider taking time before season starts to put rollbars and seatbelts on your tractors. Its the everyday common things in safety that we often take for granted that sneaks up and cripples us or takes our life. Thanks Stiffy

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Sunday, 03/19/00 23:20:32 GMT


Stiffy,

Excellent and timely message! Thank you!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 03/20/00 00:11:24 GMT


Paw Paw, (or others too)
I've been thinking about the foot operated (no hands) compound vise again and have most of the details sketched out. What kind of maximum Jaw opening would be good? The reason I ask is that the easiest way to build it puts the clamp mechanism adjustment on the front side of the vice like the handle on a normal leg vise and at about knee height where it is kind of in the way. If a 4 inch maximum jaw opening is OK, then it might not stick out too bad. On my screw operated version, the screw sticks out about 6 inches max and I find myself walking around it. Depending on what the vise is mounted to, and how, the front arm could be bent in so that the adjustment does not stick out. Hope this is clear enough without a picture.

Also, I assume That it would be best if the vice stayed closed and clamped when you removed your foot and that it would only open back up if you hit a release of sorts. Otherwise you would have to hold your foot on the pedal to keep clamp pressure.

I appreciate your experienced input. By the way, nice site and personal comments about your work pieces, Paw Paw

Guru, if you are monitoring, I saw your post on the guru page about a leg vise being a hard thing to make. As I currently envision it, this vise should solve that. Only cutting drilling and welding are required. As I promised, I will send pictures of the vise after I get the JYH done and figure out how to use the scanner.

Tony. (formerly product engineering manager at lakefield.net)

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Monday, 03/20/00 16:00:21 GMT


There is supposed to be an underscore between the tca and b in the e-mail address. I see that it didn't come through on the post due to the underline that netscape puts on it anyway.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Monday, 03/20/00 16:15:52 GMT


Tony,

A 4 inch opening should be plenty. I think it would be better if the vice was normally open, and clamped with the foot pressure. A rachet and pawl mechanism perhaps?

There is a picture of one in one of the news stories here on anvilfire, I'll see if I can find it and post the locations.

Thank you for the kind comments reference my web page. It's currently undergoing some changes, but due to the press of work, will take a good while before they are finished.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 03/20/00 17:17:48 GMT


Tony,

GOT IT! (thanks to help from Jock!)

Anvilfire New, Volume 5, PABA Edition, Page 6, lower right hand corner. I also now have it saved on my computer, and can attach it to you e-mail, if you want.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 03/20/00 20:48:11 GMT


Paw Paw, If you mean the double screw vise, I saw that. The best way to desribe what I have now is to replace the upper screw with a pin connection that adjusts for different coarse jaw openings (every inch) and the lower screw applies spreading pressure to clamp the jaws. To make it foot operated, I intend to add a foot operated over center link to the lower screw. Think of it as a big foot operated vice grip. The problem is that the screw to adjust the vice grip sticks out where your leg wants to be. I also considered a wedge and a ratchet as you suggested. As I saw it, the problem with a ratchet is that one "tooth" might be too loose while the next is too tight. The wedge is workable, but it might have more tendency to wear or bind and would be touchier to "lock" like a vice grip.

Oops, now that you have me thinking again, I may have solved the problem. Thanks, now back to the sketch pad.........

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Monday, 03/20/00 21:00:04 GMT


Paw Paw, I looked at the vice you pointed to. Now we are getting CLOSE! Take that vice and add more holes for the pivot bolt to go through so you can change the jaw opening range, add a screw to one side of the linkage at the bottom and make the bottom linkage lock over center, make it so that you can bolt it to a big heavy table and away we go. Also move the pivot bolt up so that the jaw pressure is a multiple of the foot pressure to give more clamping force.

There nust be other similar vises out there too. I have yet to have an original tool design. When I was younger and cockier I used to think I may have come up with something new. Now that I'm older (not more mature, mind you) I realize that someone else has probably thought of it before. That doesn't stop me from trying to improve it though.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Monday, 03/20/00 21:20:47 GMT


Tony,

And AWAAAAAYYYY we go! (grin)

Make good drawings! If you need a leg vice to work with, I've got an extra that has a stripped screw.

As for the problem with one tooth being too loose and the next being too tight, how about a fine adjustment via cap screws on the fixed jaw of the vise?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 03/20/00 22:08:13 GMT


Paw Paw,

Tony -- tca_b - Monday, 03/20/00 23:42:27 GMT


Paw Paw,

Tony -- tca_b - Monday, 03/20/00 23:42:27 GMT


Wow, I'm not sure what I did to get those two empty posts....
Anyway, Paw Paw,
To the MOOOON Alice, To the MOOON!

Drawings? You want me to do drawings? That's what they pay me for during the day. With this stuff, I can have it built before I get the drawings done. But I usually have scale sketches, so I'll send those when they are done. My drawing table at home here has about 60 pounds of misc. paper on it. I'd have to file all of that! Or I guess I could load the AutoCad discs that have been sitting there for a while.

I'm using some old 1.5" by 2.5" cold roll bar stock for the vises, so no need to send a post vise, but thanks for the offer. Based on ones I have seen, unless they are made from high strength stuff, they wouldn't handle the stress anyway.

Regarding stripped screws, I just received a new surplus catalog Saturday that has a pretty good deal on an Acme rod and nut. 1" diameter by 10.5" long thread, 5 threads per inch, steel, with one nut, 12.5" long overall with a 5/16" crosshole on one end and tapped 1/4-20 on the other end. New. $8.95 plus shipping from NE. Burden Surplus. Item number 1-1746. 800-488-3407 They have a pretty good catalog with lots of mechanical stuff, hydraulics, etc.

Tine to go in the garage and work on that JYH.......

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 00:01:27 GMT


Tony,

Blank posts. Stuff happens. (grin)

To the MOOOOON, Alice! Boy is our age showing! (grin)

Drawings. Scale sketches will work fine.

Vise. No problem. I also have a large fly wheel that I'm planning on using for a base.

I just finished calling for a catalog. Thanks for including the 800 number in your message. That's always helpful.

Acme Thread. One of my foster son's just brought me two pieces of 1.5" Acme all thread rod, 4 threads to the inch. Two pieces about 18" long. The spec sheet said it was 4140. I've been using a small piece of it for a die that I'd wanted, but still have the two long pieces and a small scrap. Hhmmm....

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 00:36:45 GMT


Tony,

Any way to turn the foot lever on the vise in the picture 90 degrees? That way it would be out of the way of the operator. The operator could stand on the plate, place the work in the vice, and step down on the lever to clamp the work in place.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 00:56:11 GMT


Question-- Does anyone out there use autoCAD? I've been playing with it a little bit, seems like it could be useful. Ever tried QuickCAD? Any comments? Thanks.

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 05:42:00 GMT


Paw Paw,
Yes, the pedal can be turned 90 degrees to right or left since my plan is to have a vertical operating rod between the pedal and the toggle linkage and the pedal pivot can be attached to the base. In the picture, the pedal operates the linkage directly.

If you plan to use a base and not mount it to a table, the adjustment screw stickout problem goes away too since the jaw toward the operator can be the fixed one and the jaw away from the operator can be the movable one like in the picture. The adjustment screw is below the movable jaw in the easiest way to build it. My vise is bolted to a big table so when I really horse on it, The vise doesn't wiggle around. I like the idea of a portable one on a heavy base though.

Glad to help with the catalog info. The other source I use for fasteners and some other mechanical stuff is Fastenal. www.fastenal.com They are a national chain and have stores all over the country. Their prices used to be very good, but the stock got in trouble a few years back and they raised their prices quite a bit. I had bought a 6 foot all thread 1" ACME rod and 4 nuts from them about 5 years ago for $30. I think it would be at least double that now.

Auto Cad: Steve, Auto Cad is the most prevalent CAD package in my engineering experience. Most people use it. I think it's a good package for 2D work. We use Pro-E now since most of our product work is best done in 3D. But 3D packages are more diffcult to learn and use in general IMO. AutoCad designer was an OK 3D package. I'm not happy with Pro-E service now, so I am going to be reviewing Solidworks and Unigraphics soon. I have the demo discs. I also want to look at IronCad. My problem is that as a manager, I'm a casual user. I don't use it every day and I find that makes it difficult to remember how to use. So I end up having one of the full time designers do the actual modeling and drawings. I do the sketching and they make it work. Of course, that doesn't work at home, so I just sketch on graph paper and build from sketches. I have not used or seen QuickCad. If I was going to buy something to use casually at home, it would probably be Cadkey or AutoCad lite. We had a serious problem with AutoCad version 13 up through revision c5. It was very buggy and productivity of the designers was horrible. I have not had experience with AutoCad since version 14 which was OK. My verbose 2 cents worth.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 13:32:12 GMT


Tony,

We're on the same wave length. Will the extra piece in the linkage make any flexing problems?

Steve,

I've used TurboCad some. Wasn't particularly impressed with it.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 13:44:51 GMT


Tony,

Just happened to think, the Foot pedal could be a solid bar pedal across the width of the vice, pivoted on both ends, so it could be operated with either foot. Other wise, the turn to right or left would be dictated by whether the operator was predominantely right or left footed.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 13:47:11 GMT


Hello, Can anybody out there tell what is a reasonable price for a Little Giant Power Hammer, 25# 50# 100# . Thanks

Tommy Haynes -- sueHaynes at msn.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 14:04:27 GMT


Paw Paw,
Double ended pedal is a good idea! Yes, the pivot point would have to move to change which side is the down stroke, but that would just be moving a pivot bolt. That allows the other side to be used to unlock the vice. With a single pedal, I was going to have to unlock the vise by lifting up on the pedal or using a separate unlock lever.

Flexing? I'm not sure what you mean, but if you mean will the jaws be loose, the answer is no. The bars at the pivot point of the vise and their fit to the fixed and movable jaw control how loose the jaws are. My prototype has side to side jaw movement of about 1/16

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 16:23:13 GMT


Howdy Guys;
It's been a while since I checked in. I read the "no hands" vice ideas with interest. Here's what I did:
Ingredients:
1 worn out post vice
1 bent hi-lift jack
1 2' piece of pipe
The vice would screw in and out, but slipped when you put presure on it. The jack was bent in the middle. I cut the handle off the vice, ground the threads a little, and drilled a hole in the shaft under the handle opening. I welded a yoke on each end of the pipe, and double nutted a bolt through the hole I put in the vice, and the sloted hole in the jack hook. I forgot to mention the.. I guess you could call it a stirrup.. it's just a piece of strap welded to a short piece of pipe, stuck in where the jack handle used to be.
I got tired of the jack base moving on me, so I welded a piece of angle from it to a table leg. It's not pretty, but I can shove the vice closed on something with my hip or belly (usually my belly) and step on the stirrup strap to hold it in place. I let up on my foot to release it. I leave the direction lever on the jack,in the up position, and only move it when I have both hands free, because it doesn't take much for the vice jaw to fall down out of the vice.
My description is terrible, but you should be able figure out what I did. The jack was given to me by a neighbor. Guess he didn't know the slotted rod could be turned upside down. I whacked off the end I didn't need, else it would have been in the way of the vice jaw in opening.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 20:00:43 GMT


Hi Lift!

Mike, that's a good one! I've had Hi Lift jacks for many years and have found lots of uses, but I think that's the most creative I've heard. Cool. I'm not sure I'm visualizing it right, but I think I get the idea.

How the heck did he bend the jack post though? Those are forged, hi strength stuff.

Paw Paw, It got cut out of my last post, but thanks for the input! It makes it much more fun to "talk" through these things and the end result is a better product.

Tony -- tca_b at milwpc.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 20:32:10 GMT


Tommy,

Prices will vary depending on condition and size, but generally in the area of $25 USD. Because of the demand, the little 25 and 50 pounders sell for almost as much as the larger models.

Mike,

Nice Work! And in the best traditions of blacksmithing, too!

Tony,

My pleasure! I'm just trying to supply ideas, and stimulate creativity. You're doing the work. I'll get the benefit of the drawings! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 22:13:18 GMT


Tommy,

That was supposed to be $2,500 dollars! I accidently left off two 0's. Sorry about that!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 03/21/00 22:15:32 GMT


PawPaw, Finally got posseion of the trip hammer I talked to you about last winter. It is a 100lb hammer. Mfg. Central Machinery Works, Got 2 sets of bottom dies. Has 2 motors, 1 is 480 three phase/ other is 220 single phase. Both are rated at 5 hp i think. Was gone thru and rebushed before the General Motors plant shut down. I need to sell this hammer asap. Tried to get a hold of Mr. Wallace but got no responce. Also have a treadle hammer and rocker arm forge for sale. Thaks Mike

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Wednesday, 03/22/00 10:26:24 GMT


Mike,

Have you got Bruce's telephone number?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 03/22/00 12:50:16 GMT


PawPaw, no, I don't have his no. I may be to far away for him to be interested in it. Sunny and 52 degrees at 1:45 pm in westcentral Ind.

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Wednesday, 03/22/00 18:51:27 GMT


Stiffy,

Bruce buys and sells equipment from a good bit of area.
Won't hurt to contact him and tell him what you've got.

His number is (610) 756-3377. This is the number he has on his web site, so I'm not publishing anything that is not public information. He is in Pennsylvania, so figure the time zone differences before you call.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 03/22/00 22:31:54 GMT


I received by BFA in Sculpture at University of Ga.in '96. I'm interested in ornamental ironwork and would like to learn more about the trade, possibly an apprenticeship opportunity or excellent school.
Where did you initially learn blacksmithing?

Dan Speeder -- danspeeder at hotmail.com - Thursday, 03/23/00 14:49:36 GMT


PawPaw, thanks for the help, called Mr. Wallace and left a couple of No. on his machine. Got a gentleman from Arizonia interested also. Sunny and 60 degrees in westcentral Ind. at 2:05 pm

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Thursday, 03/23/00 19:08:07 GMT


Dan,

One of the better schools in the nation is the John C. Campbell Folk School located in Brasstown, NC. The school does have a web site,

http://www.folkschool.com

You can get beginning classes from any of several instructors. I would not hesitate to suggest Doug Merkle, Clay Spencer, or Vance Baker to anyone.

As for where did I start learning, cranking a blower for my Grandfather and Great Grandfather when I was five years old.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 03/24/00 00:45:56 GMT


I am looking for an anvil.Live in Chattanooga,Tn any help where i could find one around here would be a great help.

scott -- kescco at aol.com - Friday, 03/24/00 02:01:50 GMT


hi
I have a 25# little Giant for sale in EX condition
with a pair of brand new dies. This hammer is ready to go
plug and play.It was built around 1942. It also has a brand new spring.
I'm asking $2500.00. you must pick it up. I'm here in Brooklyn N.Y.
Please send me any questions you might have thanks

jan -- jan at gypsylodge.com - Saturday, 03/25/00 23:56:37 GMT


I need to find a good flat surfaced, forged steel anvil of about 150 pounds. I live in Dayton, TN. If you can give me any hints on where to look let me know.

I found a 250 pound Vulcan anvil near Knoxville that is for sale. It is in excellent condition. If you are interested contact me.

Wes -- w.l.byrd at worldnet.att.net - Sunday, 03/26/00 04:09:17 GMT


I need to find a good flat surfaced, forged steel anvil of about 150 pounds. I live in Dayton, TN. If you can give me any hints on where to look let me know.

I found a 250 pound Vulcan anvil near Knoxville that is for sale. It is in excellent condition. If you are interested contact me.

Wes -- w.l.byrd at worldnet.att.net - Sunday, 03/26/00 04:09:52 GMT


I am just getting into blacksmithing. I have a few tools, a 127# anvil, and am building a forge. My question is this, the anvil I have although still has a wonderful, resounding ring, was an old ferriers anvil, and for many years was abused terribly, the face is deeply marred, and it looks to be very thin. I have tried to think of ways to "re-face" it. I have a friend with a bridgeport, but fear the face is too thin. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have though of building the surface with hard facing rod. I have no means to purchace a new anvil, and dont have access to a forge large enough work the anvil in. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

John -- LordAzland at freewwweb.com - Monday, 03/27/00 07:01:24 GMT


I am just getting into blacksmithing. I have a few tools, a 127# anvil, and am building a forge. My question is this, the anvil I have although still has a wonderful, resounding ring, was an old ferriers anvil, and for many years was abused terribly, the face is deeply marred, and it looks to be very thin. I have tried to think of ways to "re-face" it. I have a friend with a bridgeport, but fear the face is too thin. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have though of building the surface with hard facing rod. I have no means to purchace a new anvil, and dont have access to a forge large enough work the anvil in. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

John -- LordAzland at freewwweb.com - Monday, 03/27/00 07:01:49 GMT


John, If the face is thin (1/4" or so) and in bad shape then a major rework would be in order. Anvil faces are normaly about 5/8" and hard as glass. They don't machine very well and a small Bridgeport mill is too small a machine for this task. However, the face sounds like it may be soft as if the anvil had been in a fire. In this case it might be machinable. But you really need a full thickness face.

The bodies of anvils are made of cast iron and wrought iron. Wrought is weldable but cast is not. Hard facing rod is expensive and you would need a lot. See the instructions on METAL WEB NEWS for making anvils for info on hard facing rods.

TO ALL: I'm sorry we had problems with the margins on the page. I've been trying to fix it for a while. It turns out that it was from long links with control codes that were posted here (inocently). I've had to delete the offending posts to fix the problem. Everyone is free to post links here within the scope of this page as long as they don't interfere with the operation of the page.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 03/27/00 07:46:12 GMT


Hey there

Jacob -- blackanvil at angelfire.com - Tuesday, 03/28/00 01:30:04 GMT


I have a line on purchasing an anvil - made by Peter Wright, (England), 10" horn, 14" x 3 1/2" face, tempered tool steel top - What should I pay for this anvil

DALE CROSS -- crossd at ms.umanitoba.ca - Wednesday, 03/29/00 21:39:13 GMT


Dale,

A reasonable price will depend a lot on condition. But most anvils of this type and period go for apporximately $2.00 per pound. That's a variable, depending on how bad you want the anvil, and how bad the seller wants the money.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 03/30/00 00:19:38 GMT


Hey Paw Paw, reckon anybody would like to start a discusion on GRITS?

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Thursday, 03/30/00 18:46:17 GMT


Stiffy,

(grin) Probably not.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 03/30/00 19:54:46 GMT


just don't say anything about ethnic background :)

kid -- x/x - Friday, 03/31/00 01:05:52 GMT


Kid,

Be nice! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 03/31/00 02:14:10 GMT


I have a 50lb little giant trip hammer for sale in like new condtion. I live Iowa.

pallet boy -- dwdranch at netins.net - Saturday, 04/01/00 03:17:38 GMT


Hello. I am 14 years old, and desperately in need of a chainmail shirt or some plate leggings. The problem is that I dont have a job, therefore, there is no way for me to make money. I was wondering if there's anyone out there willing to sell either of these types of armor for under 200 dollars. PLEASE work something out. I am so desperate for these types of armor. If you have a deal for me, please e-mail me as i will probably not look at this site often

Alex -- agravlin at gw.total-web.net - Saturday, 04/01/00 23:26:36 GMT


Hello. I am 14 years old, and desperately in need of a chainmail shirt or some plate leggings. The problem is that I dont have a job, therefore, there is no way for me to make money. I was wondering if there's anyone out there willing to sell either of these types of armor for under 200 dollars. PLEASE work something out. I am so desperate for these types of armor. If you have a deal for me, please e-mail me as i will probably not look at this site often

Alex -- agravlin at gw.total-web.net - Saturday, 04/01/00 23:26:58 GMT


Also, does anyone know of any classes in the Atlanta area for a youngin' like me to learn how to make armor? I'd love some instruction on this subject

Alex -- agravlin at gw.total-web.net - Saturday, 04/01/00 23:29:59 GMT


Brandon do you still have the little giant for sale

Steve Deaton -- sdccd at juno.net - Monday, 04/03/00 02:19:21 GMT


Alex, if you have 200 dollars you can make all the chain-mail you want yourself. At the kitchen table. It΄s not really hard, at least not the un-rivetet sort, just b-o-r-i-n-g. There is a number of sites on the net explaining how to do it.

Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Monday, 04/03/00 18:04:49 GMT


ive just recieved an old post vise with no spring. I am hoping someone
might be able to send me a picture of a complete vise of the same manufacture so I could fashion one myself. As it stands now I cant for the life of me see how the spring was attached to it. anyway its a little hard to make out, but I think the vise says columbian and it definitly has cleavland on the part that attaches to the work bench, and a large C right in the middle of that same piece

Kial -- kmg11 at pacbell.net - Tuesday, 04/04/00 05:36:07 GMT



Hi Paw,

I just recently saw you post and decided to give you an e-mail.
I'm a small wrought iron mnfg up in Canada, and was interested in
getting into some forged work.
I need to build an oven...can you help?
I have built the box, with 3 burner holes, but do not know where to
locate and purchase the burners, safety valves and such (want to make it run on
Natural gas).
Anything you can suggest?

Thanx,
Steve.

Stev D -- dunhill at idirect.com - Tuesday, 04/04/00 19:51:02 GMT


Well......

O.K. We just took out a whole bunch of trees in our yard. Some ok wood. I was wondering if I could use it instead of coal(the nieghbors dont like the coal too much!).

Its mostly some cherry, and a little alder. It burns ok in the fireplace, but will it work for the forge?

Another thing.

I ran accrosss some guysselling a "new" type of anvil. Their spiel is that its "unhardened to reduce chipping, Etc.) is this a gimmic, or will it reall stand up to me with a 2 lb sledge.

Thanks

Sparrow

sparrowhawk -- sonic40 at the-pentagon.com - Tuesday, 04/04/00 22:40:46 GMT


I am looking for a presshear #10 or #30 made by Lehman and now by Rojers Mfg.. you can call 618-867-2323 or e-mail. Thanks

Andrew Macdonald -- forge at dellnet.com - Tuesday, 04/04/00 22:56:12 GMT


Whew! I take off one day to work and look what you guys do to me! (grin)

Kial,

Finding a second vise of the same manufactur may be a trick. But they were almost all made in basically the same way. Go to the Anvilfire news section, and look through the various pictures. Particularly from the BGOP Spring Fling of last year, and the South Eastern Conference from last year. There are several pictures of post vixes there. If you can't find one that is clear enough, drop me an email, and I'll take some pictures of one of mine.

Steve,

You need to go to the Links page here at anvilfire, and click on the link for RON RIEL. He has plans for building your own burners, that are extremely simple, easy, cheap to build AND safe. (the last is the most important point, IMNSHO! Do it safe or try to esablish s good orbit when it blows up! grin)

Sparrow,

Sure the wood will work. It'll work better if you reduce it to charcoal first, but it'll work just as it is.

Lets talk about forges for a minute. What were the first forges?

A hole in the ground! Some places in the third world they still make them this way! ALL a forge is, is a place to hold a fire and a way to blow air on it. Anything can be used for fuel, anyway of blowing air will work. The only difference is that some ways work better than others.

With a wood fire, you'll need a little deeper fire pit, and you'll want a good source of air in order to get the fire hot enough.

A "new" type of anvil? Maybe! Ask them what the alloy is. If it's cast iron, it's a good anchor or maybe a good door stop. If it's cast steel, it might work. But if the face of an anvil is TOO soft, it will dent and scar. Every mark on the anvil ALSO goes onto the hot steel! Remember, the hot steel is compressed between the face of the anvil, and the face of the hammer. Any marks on either face will be impressed into the work.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 04/04/00 23:27:34 GMT


Kial go to E-Bay and search Vise they usually have closeups of vises and almost all springs were similar, they hook under the mounting bracket connecter and push against the movable jaw near the bottom. It,s a flat spring.

kid -- x/x - Wednesday, 04/05/00 00:27:03 GMT


Kial look at item #296356233. It shows the spring plainly.

kid -- x/x - Wednesday, 04/05/00 00:56:15 GMT


Kid,

Nice spotting! That's a decent vise, too. Wonder how much it'll go for?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 04/05/00 01:39:56 GMT


Hey thanks guys, and kid that was just the kind of picture I needed. I think an old truck leaf spring ive got around here someplace is gonna fit the bill just right. Now does anybody know how to temper a spring. Yeah I know I don't deserve my anvil but hey nobody does.

Kial -- kmg11 at pacbell.net - Wednesday, 04/05/00 02:31:31 GMT


Kial,

Before you start to shape that spring, anneal it. (Bring it up
to the non-magnetic point, bury it in vermiculite or sandm, or ash, and let it cool down as slowly as possible. Then shape it, then bring it to the non-magnetic point again, quench it, and heat it in an oven at about 500 - 600 degrees farenheit for at least two hours and allow it to air cool. It should last for many years.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 04/05/00 02:35:55 GMT


Kial - Is that truck leaf spring as in a pickup or a semi? Surely not a semi... My dad is a truck driver and so I may have a different everyday definition of truck. A truck to me has at least 8 wheels on the ground and more when a trailer is hitched to it. What I drive to school and back is a pickup to me. Sorry, it's just the mental picture of a semi leafspring in a post vise that set me off.

Stormcrow -- mbhelm at cctc.net - Wednesday, 04/05/00 02:53:46 GMT


Hi Everone! I've been leaving this forum to others since I have my own (the guru's page). I don't have time to even check here very often. Just a few comments (most reinforcing what Paw-Paw had to say).

Forge burners. You can actualy buy comercial burners from McMaster-Carr. I want to buy one and build a little forge to see how it works and show how. . . Another Round-Tuit without a budget.

"NEW" Type Anvil??? Give me a break! The modern anvil it the result of 3,000 years of development. The only thing "new" is that there is a new SOB selling bad anvils every day. Most are cast-iron some ductile iron. . . Twice in the last year I have had foundrymen write to me offering to cast anvils. When I ask what kind of STEEL they cast them from and if they do the heat treating I get no response. Buyer Beware!

Forging with firewood works but takes a very deep forge. The fire needs to be about 2 feet deep or more and the steel worked near the bottom. Sort of like a heavy duty burn barrel with a side port. It also produces more smoke, flying sparks and debris than coal or charcoal. Essentially you make charcoal in the top part of the fire and use it in the bottom. Many primitive cultures used wood forges but only as a stop-gap measure. If you have to cut and haul the wood, charcoal is much lighter, all that water (even bound into dry wood) is heavy. Then there is the smoke. Small villages had enough smoke and charcoal reduces that tremondously. You can work near or on top of a charcoal fire so reduces the size of the forge and is much more efficient.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 04/05/00 12:34:10 GMT


Kial
I have the same Columbian vise as you. E-mail me your address and I will send you a picture.

Clint -- bearsden at tdn.com - Wednesday, 04/05/00 13:20:16 GMT


Hey Guys! Like everyone else I am looking for a big anvil. Around 500 pounds if possible. But unlike everyone else, I will give good money for one!!! Must be within driving distance of SW MO. Maybe we can work out trade!! Arm & Hammer is preferred, but Hay Budden will do and any others. 417-831-4539

Ryan Wasson -- krw996s at mail.smsu.edu - Thursday, 04/06/00 01:32:50 GMT


Paw Paw, About heating spring for two hours at 500 to 600 degrees. Are there any other methods that can be used to achieve this tempering? I've not had any experience as a blacksmith and making my own tools, but I'd like to do so some time. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.

welder40 -- n/a - Thursday, 04/06/00 23:48:23 GMT


Welder40,

You could go to the expense of building or buying a heatreating oove, with all the fancy controls, and the other bells and whistles, but I don't think it's necessary. I just use the wife's oven. Do make sure to clean up behind yourself though! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/07/00 02:10:45 GMT


I found this posted on another site. I think it's important enough to post here.

Welding Hazards

In confined spaces, welding can be much more dangerous. With less fresh air, toxic fumes and gases can be much stronger. Shielding gases, like argon, can displace the oxygen and kill you. These are some of the hazardous materials:

METALS • Stainless steel contains nickel and chromium. Nickel can cause asthma. Nickel and chromium can cause cancer. Chromium can cause sinus problems and "holes" between the nostrils. • Mild steel (red iron) and carbon steel contain manganese. Manganese can cause Parkinson's disease, which cripples the nerves and muscles. • Zinc in galvanized metal or in paint (on welded surfaces) can cause metal fume fever. It feels like the flu and goes away in a few hours or days after exposure ends.

COATINGS and RESIDUES • Lead (in some paints) can cause lead poisoning — headaches, sore muscles and joints, nausea, stomach cramps, irritability, memory loss, anemia, and kidney and nervous system damage. If lead dust goes home on work clothes/shoes, it can make your family sick, most of all your children. • Cadmium (in some paints and fillers) can cause kidney problems and cancer.

SOLVENTS • Welding through or near some solvents can produce phosgene, a poisonous gas. The gas can cause fluid in the lungs. You may not notice the problem until hours after you quit welding. But fluid in your lungs can kill you.

GASES • When carbon dioxide is used for shielding, carbon monoxide can form and kill you. • The welding arc can form ozone and nitrous oxides from the air. MIG and TIG welding make the most ozone, most of all when aluminum is welded. These fumes irritate the eyes, ear, nose, throat, and lungs and can damage the lungs. • Nitrous oxides can cause fluid in the lungs.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/07/00 02:28:09 GMT


If anyone would like to read the rest of the article that I extracted the welding warnings from, it is located at:

http://www.cpwr.com/hwelding.html

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/07/00 11:54:59 GMT


Paw paw the problems caused by COATINGS and RESIDUES sounds like me after a hard day at the forge especially the sore muscles and joints and the irritability and memory loss and my wife just tells me I am getting too old. LOL

Gary -- boosmith at zdnetonebox.com - Friday, 04/07/00 15:05:29 GMT


Gary,

My wife says the same thing. And so do my kids and grand kids.

But they're all wrong! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 04/08/00 00:45:52 GMT


does anyone know of any belt grinder plans? Id like to build one.

Thanks


Kial -- kmg11 at pacbell.net - Saturday, 04/08/00 04:39:15 GMT


Anyone know what an old pre-WWII US military Cavalry forge would be worth. Found one with all the parts, never been used. Need to make an offer but don't want to leave a bunch of money on the table.

jr -- jartar at flash.net - Saturday, 04/08/00 22:54:33 GMT


Jr.

See if you can get some pictures, I'll try to get some numbers together for you.

Most of the small "rivet" type forges with hand crank blowers, go for up to $150, depending on condition. The LARGE forges with attached hand crank blowers and hoods, can get on up to $1,500.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.come - Sunday, 04/09/00 00:45:57 GMT


This is my first time to comment so, need some lead.

jabo -- JLJabo42 - Sunday, 04/09/00 05:51:39 GMT


Jabo,

Are you saying that you need some of the metal lead?

If so, contact a roofer near you. There are a lot of lead "boots " around plumbing vents and roofers have to replace them when they repair or replace roofs. They are usually glad to find a way to get rid of the old vents.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Sunday, 04/09/00 13:26:51 GMT


I think cavlery forges were a compact unit easy to transport. they were a sheetmetal box approx 2.5ft sq and mayby a footdeep inside were the legs that fit the box to make the forge. also inside was the hand cranked blower and some tools. If it's all there aqnd in good shape it may be a collecter instead of a user. Don't know about price. I know the discription leaves a lot to be desired, but I have trouble explaining myself without something to draw on :)

kid -- x/x - Monday, 04/10/00 00:46:21 GMT


Travel tips; The monday after flagstaf I'm picking the wife and kids up in Pheonex and we're heading to the grand canyon. Does anyone have any tips? I've never been out that way.

Pete -- Ravnstudio at aol.com - Tuesday, 04/11/00 12:04:04 GMT


can someone please send me a plan for a samurai sword or a hunting knife please!
Im not going to kill anyone, promise

Brynn -- brijhw at hotmail.com - Wednesday, 04/12/00 11:56:49 GMT


can someone please send me a plan for a samurai sword or a hunting knife please!
Im not going to kill anyone, promise

Brynn -- brijhw at hotmail.com - Wednesday, 04/12/00 11:57:19 GMT


looking for an anvil 400 to 500#,, Texas if possible , no junk,

Ray Davis -- fforge at flash.net - Thursday, 04/13/00 01:21:17 GMT


Just a bit of apple polishing first. I think this a great site, very informative and fun. Although I am a tool and die maker by day, I have decided to try my hand at some ornamental iron work as a hobby. I understand there is no such thing as wrought iron any more so I was wondering what kind of steel people are using in place of it. I assume it is either HRS or CRS. Thanks.

Patrick -- dmancel at netrover.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 05:57:38 GMT


We have a 2500lb Chambersberg utility hammer installed here for metallurgical research. We are looking to get rid of it. If you pay for removal you can have it. Be forewarned that removal will not be cheap. This is an industrial site (General Electric R&D Center in Schenectady, NY) and the equipment was installed around 1955 and saw use until 1997.

If interested please call Jud at 518-387-6417 or email to marte at crd.ge.com

Thanks.

Jud Marte -- marte at crd.ge.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 13:01:02 GMT


We have a 2500lb Chambersberg utility hammer installed here for metallurgical research. We are looking to get rid of it. If you pay for removal you can have it. Be forewarned that removal will not be cheap. This is an industrial site (General Electric R&D Center in Schenectady, NY) and the equipment was installed around 1955 and saw use until 1997.

If interested please call Jud at 518-387-6417 or email to marte at crd.ge.com

Thanks.

Jud Marte -- marte at crd.ge.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 13:07:13 GMT


Patrick,

Most guys use both. I personally use more hot rolled than cold rolled. It's usually about 1018 or 1020.


Jud,

Boy are you gonna get flooded with replies! (grin) Wish I could afford to remove and ship it!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 14:12:54 GMT


I'm trying to find someone who can teach blacksmithing in the U.K. but an having some problems locating any. If you have any info please let me know. Thanks

Mike Renfro -- fronkris at callnet0800.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 18:56:41 GMT


Mike,

Contact the Briatish Artist's Blacksmith Association (BABA). There is a link on the links page.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 04/13/00 20:31:55 GMT


I am a total beginner at this - where can I go to receive instruction in blacksmithing? I live in Danbury, in western Connecticut. Thanks!
-Roy

Roy Kosonen -- yggsson at webtv.net - Friday, 04/14/00 04:27:54 GMT


Roy,

Find the ABANA chapter nearest you, and talk to them. They will know which schools are closest to you. If there are none, ask again, and I'll see what I can find for you.

Folks, I'm gonna be out of town for a couple of days, Behave yourselves! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/14/00 13:17:19 GMT


Patrick I too am a toolmaker/ blacksmith, but I smith by day and toolmake at night. CRS & HRS are fine but you can still get some real wrought if you look for it. Old farm machenery or bridges were made of wrought. Every body should try it at least once just for the experience. Good luck and have fun.

kid -- x/x - Friday, 04/14/00 22:46:16 GMT


Looking for a forge, (small) economical

Tex -- tex at icountry.com - Saturday, 04/15/00 20:44:24 GMT


looking for a good used traedle hammer for a begginer. Could you possibly send me any information that you may know?

ingle -- cjingle at bellsouth.net - Sunday, 04/16/00 01:56:01 GMT


Tex,

Go to the plans section here at anvilfire, also the 21st Century page. There are several small forges that you can build out of scrap stock. Almost all can be built from scrounged scrap stock for less than $10. These are coal forges, and they work well.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Sunday, 04/16/00 21:22:40 GMT


PawPaw, I must sell my Central Machinery Works triphammer by Easter. Have come down to $2600 for a serios cash buyer. Can deliver for $.30 a mile round trip if within w/e driving distance of westcentral Indiana. Thanks for Bruce Wallaces ph. no. Fantastic smith to talk to and one of the most honest and open people i've talked to in a long time. hammer is 100lb.ram head weight. Rainy and cloudy in westcentral Ind. at10:15 am. Thank goodness for the rain,we really needed it bad for the mushrooming season.

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Monday, 04/17/00 15:21:08 GMT


Anyone out there know about a method of creating decorative patterns in iron known as "chased iron" ? I have seen these patterns on old spurs and bits and am curious as to how it was done. I would appreciate any info. Thanks,Gary

Gary -- hr3 at home.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 00:30:00 GMT


STiffy,

No problem about hooking you up with Bruce.

Hope someone will contact you. I would, but I just can't afford it at the moment..

Gary,

If I remember correctly, chasing is done with chisels and punches. It's a hand process, similar to engraving, and is very slow. I'll see if I can find any literature about it.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 01:35:00 GMT


Anyone know how to get sign'd up here

Bill Kadunc -- Firebirdsix at yahoo.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 01:48:57 GMT


So, Tex, where in Texas are you? I assume that you're in Texas. ;-) I'm from Comanche, m'self.

Stormcrow - Tuesday, 04/18/00 02:42:15 GMT


Bill Kadunc,

How do you mean "get signed up here"? I'm not trying to give you a bad time, I just don't understand your question.

Gary,

From Dona Z. Meilach's DECORATIVE AND SCULPTURAL IRONWORK, 2nd Edition. page 121. "Chasing involves cutting a design or a texture into the surface only (as opposed to punching all the way through), using various pointed chasing tools driven with a hammer."

The book contains numerous pictures of objects that have been chased.
There is more information about the book itself on the book review page here at Anvilfire.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-[aws-forge.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 02:55:55 GMT


have a #400 blower with stand to sell. any quotes as to asking price for this would be most appreciated. hamilton

hamilton -- hamilton1207 at cs.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 05:12:28 GMT


have a #400 blower with stand to sell. any quotes as to asking price for this would be most appreciated. hamilton

hamilton -- hamilton1207 at cs.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 05:13:37 GMT


PawPaw, looks like I better start letting my wife check my spelling before I post. serious not serios? Foggy and cool ,light breeze from the north, 3:15 am in westcentral Ind.

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 08:12:12 GMT


Hamilton,

Depending on condition, up to $100. Brand new, "still in the box", maybe $150.

Stiffy,

Not to worry, the spell checker doesn't work very well, and we all make typos ocassionally.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 04/18/00 11:10:15 GMT


anyone home?

carl -- mvd00108 at mvtel.net - Tuesday, 04/18/00 22:53:37 GMT


looking for an anvil, larger the better. Also ANY Blacksmith tools. You help is greatly appreciated. Mike

mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Thursday, 04/20/00 04:10:12 GMT


Mike,

Contact Bruce Wallace of WallMetal. There is a link on the links page here at anvilfire.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 04/20/00 04:13:34 GMT


Anybody here?

jay - Friday, 04/21/00 00:35:52 GMT


Hello,
Couldany body suggest a good schematic drawing (source)for a Drift Pin. I am nowto this all and In order to make a cross-peen hammer the book I was using required a drift pin but did not tell how to make it (easy enough with trial and error) but what kind of steel and how big (for the hole in a 2# hammer?
thanks

Shawn H -- lemming at northcoast.com - Friday, 04/21/00 00:51:35 GMT


Shawn,

Most hammers actually take two drifts. The first is a "slitting" chisel", used to slit a hole for the eye. This is done by driving from first one side and then the other, with the stock at a good bright red heat. Once the slitting chisel cut's through, then the eye drift is used to enlarge and shape the eye. The size is not dependent on the weight of the hammer so much as it is by the size of the handle. I don't know of any place that has dimensions, but I'll see if I can find one for you. Second, the steel most often used today for drifts of this type is H-13. However, it's pretty expensive, so many smiths, (myself included) just use mild steel and harden it in Super Quench after making it.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/21/00 01:39:39 GMT


Thanks mr.Wilson

mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Friday, 04/21/00 04:20:17 GMT


Thanks mr.Wilson

mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Friday, 04/21/00 04:20:37 GMT


does anyone know where I can find rollers for a pexto form roller? I need a few cheaply priced rollers.

jim -- fraz11001 at aol.com - Friday, 04/21/00 19:42:48 GMT


Paw Paw - So what are some useful junkyard materials to make slitting chisels and drifts out of? A tie rod? Sucker rod? Grater blade? Leaf spring? Tool bar? Baling wire?

I'm in no position as of now to be making hammers and such (not to mention having no need right now), but it *will* come in handy eventually.

Stromcrow -- Vaht ees e-mail? - Saturday, 04/22/00 00:16:23 GMT


Stormcrow.

Make round tools out of coil spring. Works well. Flat dies (leav vieners, etc) can be made out of leaf springs. Grader blade is more abrasion resistant than hard, but it does work well. Old Cheap hammers are a good source of good quality tool steel. I frequently buy cheap "taiwan" hammers of different types to make into hammers and other tools. The hammers themselves are only fair, but the steel is usually good quality. Anneal it, shape it, harden it, temper it.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 04/22/00 01:14:25 GMT



HAPPY EASTER, Y'ALL!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 04/22/00 14:20:42 GMT


I tried one of the scropions.. Mine looked like a bug from Mars. But will try again. Not one to give up.. I enjoyed making it..My snake from a rasp turned out good. It was a little tricky but made it... I do like the I Forge.. I have trie most of the items on there... Thanks..
Barney the Blacksmith from North Bay Ont Canada

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Sunday, 04/23/00 01:51:01 GMT


To those who truly belive-He has risen. Happy Easter to all my friends and mentors at anvil fire. cold and sprinkling rain in westcentral Indiana at20:45

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Monday, 04/24/00 01:53:28 GMT


Good morning Do you mind if I join in

Dave L -- jetjockey at ironworks.reno.nv.us - Wednesday, 04/26/00 09:58:38 GMT


Dave L.

Of course not! Glad to have you! That said, this is not the live" chat area. Tha's the Slack Tub Pub, but you are invited to ask all the questions you want here, joke and kid around all you desire. If we don't know the answer here, we'll hop over to the guru's page and ask him! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 04/26/00 12:30:29 GMT


Jim wilson:
I recently bought the model-3 whisper momma with end ports. The forge has been a real treat to use as per your test, I have found it to be frugal with fuel. I am using a single 20# bottle of gas and I run it for about three hours at a time with out any freeze up. I think that when it gets real low, I will start to see some slowing of gas production.

I usually use two 20# bottles tied together with a common 1/2 inch pipe and tee. I ran this setup down to empty with out a problem. I could not get one bottle refilled last time as it was way out of date, will be picking up a new one shortly. The other good thing is I live in sunny San Diego California and I just make sure the bottle is in the heat of the sun, keeps it warm, very little cooling down effect.

Thank you for your gas pressure information. I have found that I started about where you suggested it be 8 lbs., but as the forge gets really hot, I find that I can run it as low as 4 lbs, and still it heats up pretty fast. I make custom welding brackets for a friend and they are 1 1/2 inches long 1/4 inch thick and 1 inch wide. I heat them 10 at a time I do not get a very long break between sets as the next batch is ready in about three to four minutes. This is a great forge for my use. Again thanks for the response Skip Davis.

skip Davis -- skdavis4 at juno.com - Wednesday, 04/26/00 18:00:49 GMT


Skip,

No problem! You're using exactly the same Whisper Momma that I use. I have two 20 pound and one 13 1/2 pound (? the baby bottle!) bottles. I use the 20 pounders one at at time. The baby bottle is for travelling. I used the forge last winter for as long as 5 hours in an un-heated (well, till I lit the forge it was un-heated) shop and never had a bottle freeze up.

I should have mentioned that as the forge heats up, you can reduce the pressure. I do that automatically, but didn't think of it. I rarely go below 5 pounds though.

The darn forge will wear me out yet! (grin) I've never had a power hammer, but the gas forge is gonna force me to get one! At least that's what I'm telling my wife! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 04/26/00 21:44:05 GMT


Jim Wilson:
You might be interested in the modification that I did to my whisper mamma forge. I was told that one of the worst problems would be with putting in and taking out the material that I would be forging. When taking things out of the forge, one can drag sharp spots or tools across the insulation blanket or they can poke holes in the liner while putting things in. This of course can shorten the life of the liner.

My answer to this problem was to cut a firebrick lengthwise using a diamond blade with my table saw set at 3/8 inch thickness. I cut and fit two pieces so they would go the inner length on the back wall of the forge I also put a small brick piece on each end just under the end port openings so I could drag things across that area with out damaging the linear material. I also built up the floor of the forge so it would be level to the out side front opening. If I need to, I can easily remove the floor bricks for more room.

I will keep using the single bottle as per your last posting; it sounds like I will not be having any problems with icing up. And it is hander than tying two bottles together. I will still buy one more bottle as here in San Diego; most places have an $8.00 minimum for filling bottles. By taking in two I will always be over that amount. I was raised by depression parents and I turned out a little tight fisted with my money (except where tools are concerned).

About convincing the wife about getting another tool, my wife was the one who convinced me to buy the new forge. She thought that I was wasting a lot of time reinventing the wheel by building one when I could get a new proper forge. So I did… and as I have told you it has been more than worth it to me. Have a fun weekend! Skip

Skip Davis -- skdavis4 at juno.com - Friday, 04/28/00 00:43:06 GMT


Skip,

Any way you can take pictures or make sketches of those mods? I'd love to see them, because I'm already seeing some damage to the liners. And I have both a table saw, and a miter saw, and a dimond blade for the miter saw.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/28/00 01:27:45 GMT


hi guys just checking in,hows it goin?

gypsy -- gypsysforge at yahoo.com - Friday, 04/28/00 03:59:58 GMT


Gypsy,

Not bad, you?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Friday, 04/28/00 13:36:44 GMT


Paw-Paw,
I need to plumb my shop for compressed air. Any thoughts on using PVC?

rocky -- rpatek at zdnetonebox.com - Saturday, 04/29/00 22:20:59 GMT


Rocky,

I really don't have any problems with the idea. I'd suggest that you contact somebody that sells compressors, and see if any of them have any specs for the job. You'd want to make certain that the pipe itself and ALL fittings are rated for more pressure than you ever expect to have in the shop. I wouldn't be unc-comfotable with equipment rated for 300% of the max pressure you'd ever expect to have.

In areas like this, if you're going to goof, (and we all do occasionally) it's always best to err on the side of safety.

When a compressed air line blows, all KINDS of weird things can happen, and many of them are not pretty!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Saturday, 04/29/00 23:25:41 GMT


Paw-Paw asked me to stick my nose into this one. . .

NO PVC air lines! The pulsations in the lines do really strange things to plastic piping. The result is almost always breaks at elbows and hangers. Most air modern air equipment specificaly warns against using PVC. There are also code restrictions.

Run a large central black iron line the length of your shop (1" at least). Larger if you plan on running an air hammer down the line. T off of it with drops. These can be 1/4" NPT. Drops should have T's with water collection/drain points about 6" below. The end of the line should also have a water drop/drain.

Consider this project like you are planning wiring. I've done this one time and it was really wonderful having air taps in every bay. We had quick disconects. I had a portable regulator/filter/manifold assembly that just plugged in. This is the best way to do oilers too so that you can also use the untreated air for blow-off, painting, etc.

Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 04/30/00 01:40:02 GMT


Paw-Paw (and guru),

Thanks for the input. You have given me a reason to buy more tools..:)
On a less serious note: Does anyone know where I can get some pink camoflage. My daughter and son-in-law are going to have a girl in september and I would like to get some as a joke....thanks...

rocky -- rpatek at zdnetonebox.com - Sunday, 04/30/00 18:22:22 GMT


Hey guys
How is everyone?? I am selling out my shop and was wondering if anyone was looking for any shop tools. I have a little giant 25 pound power hammer, a real nice platen table, navy yard type, very very heavy, and would like to hear from anyone interesred in purchasing either of these tools. I am also selling my website which as you have probably seen attracts quite a bit of traffic, http://www. name and all content. You would only need to change the contact info and the product pictures and start selling. Oh by the way Jock, I will give you a nice percentage of anything that sells from here. I think you know me well enough to trust that I will pay you for any assistance you give me in this effort. I have done well with the website and am now just trying to start a new business, therefor the sale of my shop and web page is nesscessary. Buyer must move or ship either of the tools, I can make arrangements to load them on a truck if given pleanty of advance notice.
I hope everyone is well and happy.
Thanks in advance Jock
Rickyc http://www.

RickC -- rickyc at - Sunday, 04/30/00 20:02:19 GMT


Rick,

Where are you located, and how much do you want for the platen? I know darn good an well that I can't afford it, but I'd sure like to have it!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 05/01/00 00:53:56 GMT



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