WELCOME to theVirtual Hammer-In! This page is open to ALL for the purpose of advancing blacksmithing. Please read the RULES before posting a message. NOTE: This IS NOT the Guru page! |
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WHY THREE FORUMS? Well, this is YOUR blacksmithing forum to use for whatever you wish within the rules stated above. It is different than the Slack-Tub Pub because the messages are permanently posted and archived. Our chat, the (Slack-Tub Pub), is immediate but the record of it temporary. Do not post permanent messages there. We refresh the "log" every couple days now and your message will be lost. The Guru's Den is where I and several others try to answer ALL your questions to us. Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, 07/27/98 & 03/01/99 OK, SO lets hear some names for the "competition" or "event" at Flagstaff! IF you post your idea HERE or on the (to be setup) Junk Yard Hammer Page FIRST and we use it You will WIN, a one year ABANA membership and an ABANA 2000 JYH (noname yet) contestant T-Shirt! Deadline is Midnight GMT June 26th, 1999. To win you must first BUILD a MEC-JYH or AIR-JYH then photograph it. Send the photographs or scans (no larger than 640x480, 24bit color or B&W JPEG) to anvilfire.com for publication. There will be a photo release making the images property of anvilfire.com so be sure you inform the photographer. You DO NOT have to haul your creation to Flagstaff, AZ!! Hey world! That means you guys in other parts of the world can enter this one! Deadline is March 15, 2000. FIRST PRIZE is $200 US CASH! And an ABANA 2000 JYH (noname yet) contestant T-Shirt! MORE EXCITING ANNOUNCEMENTS LATER! JYH contest sponsor -- contest at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 04/04/99 14:04:12 GMT Let's be the first with the most! Let's call it the ABANA Home Built Hammer Contest! Otherwise known as the HBH! Jim Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 04/04/99 17:17:13 GMT Come on you guys! You're not going to let sarge get away THAT! More competition definitions. There will be FOUR (4) classes of hammer. Complete rules to be posted later. JYH contest sponsor -- contest at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 04/04/99 21:54:45 GMT Whadda ya mean "get away with that"? They don't have any choice, I was da first and dat's da best! (grin) Want proof? Spring is Sprung, Da grass is ris! I wonda where da blacksmiths is? Da smart ones'll be at da Spring Fling! Warrenton, Virginie, April 16, 17, & 18th. Jim Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 04/05/99 00:10:19 GMT Hi all, We've been keeping a fairly low profile down here in South Africa. Our first hammer got sold to a lady blacksmith who operates out of a historical gold mining village near Johannesburg, and seen some really heavy service over the past few months. Happily, its holding up real good, with no sign of any latent weaknesses or defects. Even the Vee belt drive has lasted much longer than expected. Bertie Rietveld and I started on building the Mk 2 version, incorporating some ideas we came up with while building the first hammer. We'rer building two off, so we can each have one, and final assembly should happen over the next couple of weekends. The only real difference is that we're making much more use of flame-cut profiles (including a 60 lb 4" thick block for the hammer head), and going for a 2" flat belt drive instead of the Vee belts. We're hoping we'll get a smoother clutch action than with the Vee belts which tend to 'grab' a bit when you start up. We'll post a couple of photos as soon as we've got the hammers done and covered with a lick of paint. Happy forging tom nelson -- tom.nelson at pixie.co.za - Monday, 04/05/99 08:04:26 GMT Hi all, We've been keeping a fairly low profile down here in South Africa. Our first hammer got sold to a lady blacksmith who operates out of a historical gold mining village near Johannesburg, and seen some really heavy service over the past few months. Happily, its holding up real good, with no sign of any latent weaknesses or defects. Even the Vee belt drive has lasted much longer than expected. Bertie Rietveld and I started on building the Mk 2 version, incorporating some ideas we came up with while building the first hammer. We'rer building two off, so we can each have one, and final assembly should happen over the next couple of weekends. The only real difference is that we're making much more use of flame-cut profiles (including a 60 lb 4" thick block for the hammer head), and going for a 2" flat belt drive instead of the Vee belts. We're hoping we'll get a smoother clutch action than with the Vee belts which tend to 'grab' a bit when you start up. We'll post a couple of photos as soon as we've got the hammers done and covered with a lick of paint. Happy forging tom nelson -- tom.nelson at pixie.co.za - Monday, 04/05/99 08:04:55 GMT How about the First Biennial Junk Yard Hammer SMASH-IN. Rate it by how quickly it can flatten a 1" X 1" bar at a yellow heat to 1/4 the thickness, then add a handicap based on the actual dollars spent. The winner would be the hammer that does the most amount of work for the least amount of cash. The wording in the challenge is somewhat ambiguous. I think Junk Yard Hammer captures the spirit of the project, although Home Built Hammer is also descriptive, and Back Yard Hammer would be my suggestion. By the above, you know who'se working on the plans for the Renaissance Junk Yard Hammer, and where he plans to build it. If you ask real nice, I may even provide some Thor's Hammer amulets to be given as prizes. The cherry blossoms are in bloom on the banks of the Potomac. Visit your National Parks (including the Mall and the cherry blossoms): www.nps.gov Come have a row with us: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Monday, 04/05/99 17:33:51 GMT Do the SMASH, do the Junk Yard MoNsTeR SMASH! . . . I like it! Ren Junk Ham????? I'd even supply some materials for THAT one. Let me know what you need and PawPaw and I will bring it to the Spring Fling! Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 04/05/99 17:58:43 GMT Tom, We would LOVE to see your new hammer(s). Take lots of pics while building it. An ideas that might help. Flat belt clutch drives need edges on the pulley to hold the belt on when slack. Pat McGhee of Greenwood Ironworks came up with the idea of using a multi V pulley and machining off some of the ridges leaving the outside one to make a lip. Note that in between the edges the pulley still needs crown. This is a great way to get around fabricating a special pulley. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 04/05/99 20:51:12 GMT Bruce, Second the guru's comment! I'll be bringing the truck anyway! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/06/99 04:31:58 GMT Jock, that's exactly what I did. Got a couple of heavy duty cast iron twin B section vee belt pulleys about 18" dia and machined the bottoms flat witha 1/2" lip each side. Note your point about crowning, but there's enough meat left to take a slight cut on the bottom for a crown so I'll do that before final assembly. While I'm here, your comment on hammer dies. I see virtually every hammer shows the dies held in dovetails with drift wedges. Now that's difficult to machine. I'm thinking O1 dies screwed from the back to a heavy mild steel plate with HT machine screws, the M/S plate in turn screwed to the anvil or hammer head also with HT machine screws. I don't like the idea of welding the O1 to M/S and this way I can replace dies without too much sweat tom nelson -- tom.nelson at pixie.co.za - Tuesday, 04/06/99 13:49:50 GMT Tom, Funny how people come up with the same solutions on opposite sides of the planet! While you are machining that crown be sure to make the sides of the belt "guides" vertical. The edge of the belt will try to climb the slope even as steep as it is. I've thought about screwed on dies but have never seen any. I HAVE had trouble with changes in size when hardening die stock (for punch presses) that made screws hard to fit afterward. I expect that one reason screws are not used due to the possibility of crack probagation. The other is that with the repeated compression of the hammer parts bolts will tend to loosen. However, NOBODY welded dies to M/S flanges but several of the makers of air hammers now do just that. It will be an intresting experiment. Let us know how it works! Our solution on my 350# Bement is to bolt two halves of the dovetail to a flat surface. This requires a LOT of heavy bolting. Although we can face the ends of the anvil we don't have a shaper or mill big enough to put in a doevtail in a 4,000 pound part! Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 04/06/99 14:53:39 GMT Hi to all. I'm just reaching completion of the Kinyon Air Hammer,and just have to say to anyone who is comptemplating building one of these hammers to go for it. It looks a lot more complicated than it actualy is.Thanks to all the good folk on the net, it was made even easier. Please feel free to contact me regarding questions anyone may have regarding the Kinyon Hammer. Not that I am an expert but I have gone through the learning curve. Once again thanks to all who have assisted me on this project. Mike the Israeli smith. mike -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Tuesday, 04/06/99 18:49:39 GMT Mike, When you're finished, (or at any point along the way), how about some pictures of your hammer for the power hammer page? And put a good looking sabre next to it for the "Most Photogenic" contest! (grin) Jim (Paw Paw) Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 04/07/99 00:22:40 GMT Mike, I have to chime in with Jim....love to see some pictures of what you came up with. What control system did you use, the plans or the new modifications that came out subsequently? Bob -- robert_miller at mindlink.bc.ca - Wednesday, 04/07/99 03:30:50 GMT Need a used trip hammer ,Little Giant 25lb or 50lb , at a reasonable price. Dennis Gillihan -- cen58377 at centuryinter.net - Wednesday, 04/07/99 10:12:26 GMT Hi to all.As soon as I have the hammer painted & prettied up I will photograph it & then see if Jock will put it on the power hammer page. Right now I am playing about with valve set-up's. I am also playing about with some other refinements that were provided to me by a fellow smith. More about that at a later stage, as I would like to check with him as to how he would like to present his refinements; if at all. What I can say at this stage is that I'm realy impressed with the hammer. Till know I've been bashing on a piece of 6x6 as I haven't got my dies sorted out yet. Jock gave me an explanation on the Guru page as how to treat the H13 steel I'm using as dies, but it's a bit technical for me, so I'm trying to get input from other sources. Any ideas? This is not a critism of Jock, he gives me to much credit; not realizing I'm basicaly an idiot. take care. Mike the Israeli smith. mike -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Wednesday, 04/07/99 17:32:42 GMT Good Day from Brisbane Australia. My name is Peter Denny and I am surching for a mad Blacksmith Mate of mine who wants to go to America to attend a Blacksmith Convention. And he need information. Can any of you blokes help out!!! Peter Denny -- prvdenny at powerup.com.au - Thursday, 04/08/99 09:55:54 GMT Good Day from Brisbane Australia. My name is Peter Denny and I am surching for a mad Blacksmith Mate of mine who wants to go to America to attend a Blacksmith Convention. And he need information. Can any of you blokes help out!!! Peter Denny -- prvdenny at powerup.com.au - Thursday, 04/08/99 09:57:36 GMT send me forging related letrature Moin Shekh -- excelltd at emirates.net.ae - Thursday, 04/08/99 12:57:53 GMT Peter Denny, I looked around here, could not find your mad Blacksmith mate, sorry. Which convention are you interested in and what type of info do you need? Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Thursday, 04/08/99 15:34:03 GMT Peter, I'd suggest that your mad mate start planning for the ABANA conference next year in Flagstaff, AZ. More information will be posted here on anvilfire as it becomes available. Send me a Snail Mail address via e-mail, and I'll make sure you get copies of any paperwork that I recieve. Jim (Paw Paw) Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 04/08/99 16:37:41 GMT Moin Shekh, If you are looking for forging information, go to the Archives at the bottom of this page, download them and print them out. Should provide plenty of reading and forging info. Also check the various booksellers on the net, search using Blacksmith(ing). You will find some good books on the subject there as well. If you are looking to have something created or built, then post a description and somebody will probably respond. Hope this helped. Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Thursday, 04/08/99 18:19:46 GMT I´ve just checked the log. Yunk-yard smash-in! You sure seem to have fun over there. From this we learn that the swedish blacksmiths might be excellent craftsmen but also to damn serious. No cherry-blossoms in the viking homelands (Eh, Bruce) but the snow has gone. Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Thursday, 04/08/99 18:32:59 GMT Olle, Sometimes we all get too serious. But a little bit of humour, (even though it's sometimes pretty infantile) helps to lighten the load. And before somebody jumps on my case, I'm just as apt to be infantile as anybody else, and more so than some! (grin) Jim (Paw Paw) Wilson -- pawpaww at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 04/08/99 23:24:08 GMT Olle, WE TO have some that take themselves much too seriously. There are folks that insist that there is only one right way to hold a hammer and only one right way (their way) to most everything. They also insist on "traditional" methods and never consider that as long as there has been technological progress the methods have always changed. You REALLY have to be able to laugh at yourself (and the situation) when you use a computer guided laser to cut blanks from modern mill plate to make reproduction medieval armour! Why not? :) Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 04/09/99 02:52:03 GMT jock thats cheating !!! :) and i used to think using a cutting torch was cheating, laser cutting now where is the fun in that? next you'll be using robotic arms to hold the hot steel and hold it under your power hammer for you... lochinvar (allen) -- LochinvarSwords at webtv.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 03:58:25 GMT Jock, This brings up something I learned as a journeyman doing production piece work. The shop master would show me a finshed item and say, "I want the items to look like this". I would ask him how should I do it. He would reply, "I just showed you how, I want the pieces to look like this. I don't care if you have to use your teeth, I want the finshed items to look like this", as he held up the item.... Funny thing is I could never figure out how to forge with my teeth. Maybe I missed something in his directions? He was a fine teacher and I still do work for him today in my own shop. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Saturday, 04/10/99 03:59:33 GMT Jock, Hhmm... Robot arms to hold the metal. Let's talk about that at the Spring Fling. We might be able to come up with something to do that! Call it the Home Built Helper! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 04:37:18 GMT Bragging time again! I was in one of the local antique stores today. He's got a WINTON anvil (I think that's the name on the side). Weighs about 150# He's asking $225 for it, which is way too high. Got a torch cut in the table, and the edges are pretty well chipped. Rings pretty good. I'll eventually dicker him down to a reasonable price or a trade of some kind. BUT, while I was there he remembered a framed print that he had in the back of the shop. Titled "The Blacksmith Shop" it's from an orignal oil painting by Rafael Beck, Copyright 1903 by the American Blacksmith Company, Buffalo, New York. Price tag on the print was $25, I talked him down to $20! (grin) Re-matted, glass cleaned, it now resides happily in my dining room, directly over my chair! Even momma approved! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 17:58:26 GMT Guru, Let's change that from Home Built Helper to Home Made Apprentice. HAM instead of HMO. (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimted.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 18:00:21 GMT DURN IT! That's SUPPOSED to be HMA, not HAM. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 18:01:15 GMT Guys, the answer for the contest name is obvious! BATTLE OF THE JUNKYARD DAWGS! Chris -- kilpe4 at gte.net - Saturday, 04/10/99 21:35:15 GMT Well. . . that's what I called it last year (with Dawg spelled Dog). But we will put it in the running. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Saturday, 04/10/99 22:44:51 GMT Robot Arm: Actually, between the time that Jock convinced me that even a Junk Yard Hammer was better than hiring a minimum wage neighbor, and the time I started planning the Renaissance JYH, I was doodling around with means to hold down the stock when hot chiseling, etc. Face it, most of what a treadle hammer does is keep a hand free to control top tools, spring fullers and such like. Weyger's multi-element hold- down is versatile, but slow. A foot activated hold down, such as in Richardson, is fast, but not versatile. The standard spring rapped tight in the pritchell hole is neither fast nor versatile. Some method that would quickly hold the stock firmly to the face, but not so rigid as to pop loose and let things fly would be a boon to the single handed shop. There's been more times in Blacksmithing when I've wished for a third arm than ever when sailing. (No crude jokes, please.) Hence a robot arm to hold the stock sounds a bit silly at first, but would actually be useful if it were cheap, versatile and reliable. (Just love that bright incandescent yellow metal summersaulting through the air up near my face!) Clear and cool on the banks of the lower Potomac. Had another good forging night, although the 45* air was enough to make my toes cramp. Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov The Ultimate Rowing Machine: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship (cAsE sEnSiTiVe) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Sunday, 04/11/99 04:40:04 GMT Atli, I've got a two different hold downs that both work fairly well. One is a piece of chain with a lead casting on one end. Have a hook mounted on my anvil block, hook the chain to the hook, lay the chain across the anvil with the weight on the opposite side. Does fairly well. The other is a pair of vise grips that I modified. I put a hardie stake on them, cut one jaw off. Stake them down with a wedge. Adjust for the stock. Lay the stock on the anvil, close the vise grips. I'll bring those along for show and tell. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 04/11/99 13:22:57 GMT regarduing hold downs i have a eccenter hold down (likte the ones used on welding fixtures) with a nut welded on which fits to a treaded 3/4" rod (welded to a sq tube forged to fit my last anvills hardy hole). I kan regulate the height to the nearest 1/4 of the rods pitch by simply rotating the sq tube (I have the rod go tru so that it kan be bolted on the underside). the bad part is that it tends to rotate (i drilled and taped the nut for a 5mm screw to counter it some) OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Monday, 04/12/99 08:12:18 GMT Jim, glad you changed it to HMA,not HAM otherwise us Israeli smiths would not have been able to use it.It not being kosher and all :-) Mike the Israeli smith mike -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Monday, 04/12/99 10:37:20 GMT Mike, Well, that depends on whether you keep kosher or not, doesn't it? (grin) If you mix dairy and deli, it doesn't matter all that much! I've got a buddy that keeps pretty kosher, but he likes a piece of "pink salmon" for breakfast every now and then. :) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 04/12/99 13:38:31 GMT Jim, aah yes,rosy salmon, nothing wrong with that! Being playing about with the valve set-up on the Kinyon hammer, damn impressive. I've used a different configuration for the limit switch & reversed the 4way valve as recommended on the ABANA site. The control is great. If and when I get the hammer on the hammer page I will post the name & address of the guy who came up with the refined valve set-up. I dont want to give anything away as its not my design. mike -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Monday, 04/12/99 21:46:22 GMT Atli, Re. Hold Downs: Have you looked into toggle clamps (AKA horizontal handle clamps)? These clamps lock into place with a pull of the hand and can exert up to 500 lb. holding force. In my 97 Grainger's catalog they begin on p.1861, in my 95 McMaster-Carr catalog they are on p.1801. These clamps need to be mounted but they can be mounted to a small plate that has a shaft to fit your hardy hole(just make sure the shaft is long enough to get a good bind in the hardy hole)or on an arm mounted to your anvil stand that swings into place. These clamps are great hold downs and with a little thought it probably will be real easy to come up with a mounting method. Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Monday, 04/12/99 21:54:53 GMT Mike, (VBG) He was in my SF team. If we came to my place for breakfast, Sheri would ask him if he'd like some pink salmon with his eggs. He'd grin and say Yes! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 04/12/99 22:37:36 GMT Hmmm, . . kosher power hammers???? Uh, can we get a Rabbi's opinion on DAWG? A good number of years ago my Dad came up with an accromym for a piece of machinery we were building. "Shielded Man Articulated Rotating Turret" or SMART device. It was actually a pretty dumb device and the irony was apparent to everyone. After that our rule was to never name ANYTHING "smart" Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 04/12/99 22:46:03 GMT Mike and Guru, Dawg isn't bad. A little stringy usually, unless it's a puppy. (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/13/99 00:43:52 GMT Marcus: Re. Hold Downs: Have you looked into toggle clamps (AKA horizontal handle clamps)? I think these where the ones I was talking about in my earlyer posting but I am not certain. The one I am talking about have a toggle that clamps when you push the handle down and lock in that position. Am I on the right track Marcus? If not, what else do you mean?? The one I have worked great,at least for me with my anvil, the hard part was removing/attaching it (form the hardy hole) as it was firmly locked in place with a nut on the underside (at least most of the time). The advantage is that they (the clamps) come in a huge number of different sizes and shapes and clamp/release really fast. Am I way of from what you need Atli?? If so in what way OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Tuesday, 04/13/99 06:07:50 GMT OErjan, Sounds like we are talking about the same type of clamp OErjan. They are quick to clamp and exert a lot of hold down. Rather than using the hardy hole suppose instead that you have a pipe fastened to your anvil stand. Sliding within the pipe is a solid piece of round stock, bent so it looks like an upside down L. Mount the clamp to the leg of the L. Then drill through both pipe and round so you can raise and swing the L into place and pin it with a bolt. This will allow to quickly swing the clamp into place and move it when done. If you drill another set of holes 90* to the first set, you can swing the bar parallel to the anvil face and use it as a support for those long pieces as well. Do you see what I mean? The pipe needs to be long enough to support the sideload that will be exerted by clamping and there will be some flex probably. Still, I think it will provide enough downforce to hold work in place and still be easy and quick to to use and remove. Atli, would this work for you? I have not tried it yet but since I have some toggle clamps this how I plan to use them when I get around to it. Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Tuesday, 04/13/99 15:48:54 GMT Anybody got a quick way to twist square tube without it collapsing? Fill it with sand? Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/13/99 16:22:25 GMT Jim, find a round bar that fits, twist, then remove. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 04/13/99 18:09:51 GMT Jock, Good! Never thought of that! I'll try it this afternoon. I'm trying to finish a mono-pod for the video camera before Friday morning! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/13/99 19:36:45 GMT Re: twisting square tube - Keep in mind that the round stock should be thinner than you think. Too many twists and it'll bind up. And keep an eye on the welded edge of the tube, it may open up if the twist gets too tight. Look forward to seeing you folks at Spring Fling. Chris -- worsley at erols.com - Wednesday, 04/14/99 00:01:00 GMT Chris & Jock, I tried using 3/4" round bar inside of 1" sqaure tube. Figured that would give it enough ease. Got it hot enough I think, but didn't have enough leverage to make the twist. I was making a mono pod to use with the viedo camera at Spring Fling. Is basically made, decorating will have to wait till I get back. See ya there! I'll be wearing either a Union Cavalry Kepi, or a Union Cavalry Hat. And I'll be the LITTLE guy standing next to the BIG guy! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 04/14/99 00:18:22 GMT come one come all to the new Central Virginia Blacksmith Guild web page. please come viset us.. www.cvbg.org see yall there......... bob fulghum -- jrf at hovac.com - Wednesday, 04/14/99 02:18:06 GMT Marcus,Atli: I think it would be better to use two 1" nuts (no not us;-) ) welded to an "L" shaped ¾ square bar (about 8-10"long on the vertical part) for stability they need to be slightly spaced (about 3-4") have that attached to a treaded 1" rod going into a tube, like you said, with a ¼ bolt going through to lock in place, sticking up to about 3" below the anvillface. That would make for great adjustment (one turn lowers or rises it 1x the pitch of the tread) and bee out of the way when removed (rather quickly too) either swing out of the way or remove bolt and remove it completly. what do you think?? If you then weld the clamp to a 3"pice of sq (3/4 inner dia) tubing (mabe with a treaded hole for locking it in place) you can slide it along the sq rod and get a very versatile and fast clamp OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 04/14/99 06:24:21 GMT OK so maby better is a relative thing. my klamp should at least be very adjustable, hard-clamping and with fast clamp/release. I think it would be a little better to have a treaded bar with nuts (still not us) rather than drilled holes. drilled holes give just so much adjustment and rather crude at that, the holes need to be spaced some(say 1/8"minimum) and are say ¼" them selves that makes 3/8" between adjustment steps minimum. A treaded 1"rod on the other hand gives about 1/8" adjustment per turn. (M24 3mm (metric 24 C) or 1.5mm, 2mm (metric 24 F). UNC 1"-8 (1/8")and UNF1"12 (1/12") what do you think?? OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 04/14/99 08:16:06 GMT Gentlemen: Some great ideas for adjustable hold-downs. I'll have to chew it over a bit, but it goes a long way towards what I'm looking for. Thanks Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Wednesday, 04/14/99 12:37:17 GMT Atli, Don't do anything about a clamp until after Spring Fling. I'm bringing one along to show you. I think you'll like it. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 04/14/99 12:57:53 GMT OErjan, I like it, my idea was quick and easy, the refinements you added make for an clamp that is adjustable and more versatile. It is also just as easily removed. I have everything but the threaded rod and will start looking for that. Jim, No fair!! OErjan and I are separated from you and Atli by either a continent or an ocean and here you are going to SHOW Atli a clamping method. Least ya could do is post a description so OErjan and I can see what ya got...grin. A tarheel in an union cavalry kepi?!? Hmmmm, I thought the state motto was "First at Bethel, farthest at Gettysburg and last at Appomattox"...smiling. Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Wednesday, 04/14/99 15:14:39 GMT Marcus, (grin) I've been accused of wearing a Sherman button to a Georgia picnic! I've ALWAYS been an agitator! If Atli likes my clamp, we'll try a post a picture in the news. Basically it's made from a welders vise grip. I cut off the pipe jaw, welded on a hardy shank and added a piece to the "wye" jaw. Drop the shank into the hardy hole, adjust for stock thickness, and push the locking lever down. It jams into the hardy hole and clamps the stock to the anvil. Lift up on the release lever, it lets go. Works slick. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 04/14/99 15:36:18 GMT come one come all to the new Central Virginia Blacksmith Guild web page. please come viset us.. www.cvbg.org see yall there......... bob fulghum -- jrf at hovac.com - Thursday, 04/15/99 01:54:57 GMT hi there - just setting up my forge and am looking for some info on sharpening stone chisels - any ideas? john linkel -- scotchpinefarm at bicnet.net - Friday, 04/16/99 02:11:42 GMT hi there - just setting up my forge and am looking for some info on sharpening stone chisels - any ideas? john linkel -- scotchpinefarm at bicnet.net - Friday, 04/16/99 02:13:42 GMT Truck's packed, projects finished (mostly), 01:00. Hope to see some of you at the BGoP Spring Fling. Hitting the rack. OErjan: haven't forgotten you, can't hit the pub in the a.m. or p.m. due to schedule lately. Have some notes on your wrought iron, but still puttering. Forge on! Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Friday, 04/16/99 05:11:18 GMT Jock, Paw Paw and Atli, Good to have seen you guys at Spring Fling. Hope everyone had a good time. Now to unpack the truck and get back to work. Let's do it again next year. Chris -- worsley at erols.com - Monday, 04/19/99 12:14:04 GMT Chris, Likewise! Got ABANA 2000 next year too! All, What a blast. Got in about 2200 last night. Exausted. But had a great time. Got some GOOD vide. Anvil shoot especially good. Copy to the Guru next day or so. Hope he can extract some pictures for the news. Still sleepy, somebody snores!! (grin) Guru got pictures of THE clamp. Probably be in the news as soon as he has time. Jim Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 04/19/99 13:06:53 GMT All, OK, I'm mostly caught up on e-mail, and I got a story to tell on the guru! (grin) Guru was looking for an anvil for a farmer friend. Bout 100 pounds or so. Cheap. Fair to good condition. Looked all weekend. Sunday afternoon, he didn't go to the Iron in the Hat drawing, but I did. I won a "pig in a poke" grab bag, that I had put one ticket in. Talking to guru and Atli, I asked guru if he'd found an anvil. He answered no. I told him that I'd won one in the Iron in the Hat. He got an acquisitive look in his eye and the conversation went like this: guru; "How big?" Paw Paw; "Little less than a 100 pounds." Guru; "Want to sell it?" Paw Paw; "Sure, I don't need it." Guru; "What kind of shape is it in?" Paw Paw; "Brand new." Guru; "How much?" Paw Paw; "Welll... Since it's you... $40 - $50 bucks" Guru; "Really? Where is it?" At which point I pulled a little 3 1/2", maybe 4 oz. minature anvil out of my grab bag! You should have SEEN his face!!!!! (grin) Atli was standing there during the whole thing. He laughed, looked at me and said "Got him!" I won't repeat what guru said!!!!!!!!! (still laughing!) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 04/19/99 20:13:44 GMT Chris and the rest of the Cyber Crew: Good seeing some of y'all at the Spring Fling. Hope to meet a batch more. Someday might even catch up with our Swedish contingent (more research on the Viking age)! It's nice to put names and faces together. Still putting gear away on the banks of the lower Potomac. Feels closer to November than April. Had Jock & Co. camped out with me, the frost would have been on the Paw Paw. ;-) (Mumble, grumble, "motel rangers"...) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Tuesday, 04/20/99 02:54:48 GMT Atli, This "motel ranger" camped out during three consecutive training operations in Alaska. I've made my share of "yellow snow" and done my share of freezing. Try eight hours of directing traffic outside when the ambient air temperature is MINUS 70 degrees and with a "breeze" of 15 knots! Care to figure the wind chill factor for that? Been there, done that, froze my butt off! But no more, I'll let you "young bucks" take over and enjoy the motel room, thankyouverymuch! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/20/99 04:38:21 GMT Bruce, Jim, Jock, If you have any suggestions or thoughts on the Fling, send them along "off list". We want to make Spring Fling 8 even better that this years. Suggestions for interesting demonstrators are always welcome too. I've already put in a word about the frosty AMs.... Chris -- worsley at erols.com - Tuesday, 04/20/99 12:12:48 GMT Paw Paw: I am speechless! When next an AK ranger or superintendent calls me, I'll be more appreciative. At least where I slept, it was quiet. Thanks for all the help and advice from both you and Jock, not to mention assistance on the heavy lifting. Drawing board work proceeds apace on the RJYH, and WBtS Blacksmithing information is still being gathered. Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Tuesday, 04/20/99 13:19:54 GMT Atli, and others, You may be interested in an article that I just finished reading. Some scientists believe that they have determined how iron was originally discovered. It seems that someone smelt it! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/20/99 14:11:53 GMT Chris, At this point, I can't think of a thing that would improve the Fling. I enjoyed myself thoroughly, in spite of the lack of sleep. I will add that watching Josh Greenwood demonstrate is a fascinating way to spend time. I really don't think you can do a whole lot about the frosty morning, without scheduling later in the year. And scheduling later in the year could/would lead to scheduling conflicts. Maybe a big morning bonfire. Atli, Assistance is called working together where I come from. What goes around, goes around. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 04/20/99 14:16:12 GMT Jim, The guru has pictures of THE clamp? THE clamp??? Hmmmm, sounds a little presumptuous to me...grin! Actually though, I would like to check it out. Reckon I am really going to have to look all of you up at ABANA 2000. Looking forward to it. Sounds like you and your Union cavalry kepi did not run into any of Jeb Stuart's boys...smile. Marcus -- marcusiv at msn.com - Tuesday, 04/20/99 23:09:16 GMT OK, OK, OK, I'll get the CLAMP picture posted! Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 04/20/99 23:15:09 GMT Marcus, Not presumptious, just confident! (grin) J. E. B. Stuart's boys head for the hills when they see the Yankee Calvary a'comin' at em! (grin) We got Winchester's! Jock, (VBG) I warned you! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 04/21/99 00:08:08 GMT OK, PawPaws little clamp is posted. . . :) (see 21st Century, or link from what's new or guru page). Also got a photo of him armed with said Winchester! Will post in NEWS. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 04/21/99 01:41:28 GMT Jock Someone has to say it, may as well be me. With a Slack-Tub-Pub why do you not have a V-Hammer INN? Just some place to go after we leave the pub, to sober up before we go home. (You can get intoxicated drinking from the fountain of knowledge that flows in the pub.) I'm sure some folks might prefer to "check in" to the "INN" before going to the pub, if that was OK with you. Besides, think how impressed everyone would be at the next get together when you said you had two " N's " and a pub. ;) A great site -- Thanks for all your efforts. Ntech -- Ntech at mindspring.com - Wednesday, 04/21/99 01:41:46 GMT dont know what the rules are, and i,m not looking for the guru, i am the guru!!! Ray -- swmetal at sosweb.net - Wednesday, 04/21/99 02:25:25 GMT As far as I know there's only one guru and he's forgot more then most of us will ever know. Just to say your the guru is one thing. You have to be able to back it up with you knowledge. Every one is welcome and it's easy to learn the rules. This is a public place and I wouldn't want anyone to talk foul to my wife of kids. If you can remember that, that's pretty much the rules. Oh yeah, one other thing no made up of fictitious names. You don't have to take my word for it. The official RULES are posted at the top of this page. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Wednesday, 04/21/99 20:29:17 GMT can anyone send me some pictures and information on making a power hammer for my home blacksmithing shop .......any thing as long as it works Jason Hampton -- jason.hampton at xtra.co.nz - Sunday, 04/25/99 08:40:37 GMT I´ve been thinking. (Yes, I know, it´s painful.)As much as I like these pages they are wery much concerned with modern methods of blacksmithing. I do use modern equipment myself but is mostly making damascus and ancient weaponry. Do any of you know of a site where the PRACTICAL side of pre-historic and medievial blacksmithing is discussed? (By people who know what they are talking about. Archeologists and historians has a tendency to believe anything they read and nothing they are told) Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Sunday, 04/25/99 09:46:54 GMT Olle, We have links to various sword, knife and armour sites. A new link to an old site "Arador" is supposed to be pretty good. However, I do not know a true historical/factual site. Bruce Blackistone is fairly well aquainted with historical methods. . . If you can find the "experts" I'll provide another forum. Let me know how you would like it laid out. We are looking at some new services and may be able to offer some intresting things in the near future. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 04/25/99 16:07:28 GMT Hmm, Jock, the trouble here is that I´M probably one of the experts! ( As I think I´ve told you before, I´m a professional archeologist and work at an industrial heritage museum including weapons technology.)This doesn´t mean that I claim to know very much about anything, it just means that additional facts and knowledge becomes increasingly hard to find. I was hoping someone out there would accept the challenge and teach me a thing or two. Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Wednesday, 04/28/99 21:11:49 GMT Do you know where I could obtain plans or information on antique mechanical foot operated jig saws? David -- Dbyers at BarTechnologies.com - Wednesday, 04/28/99 21:19:58 GMT Olle: When you find that someone, tip me off too. When it comes to research in the earlier periods, I think that neither of us would run out of fingers, much less toes, keeping count. I'll try to put together a list of my medieval/ancient metalworking book marks, and you can see if there are some you've missed. There are some good sources there, if I had the time to follow up. Back to the 40s F on the banks of the lower Potomac. Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov Come help repair our longship: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Thursday, 04/29/99 03:16:16 GMT interesting stuff on oldtyme smiting at: http://www.archaeometallurgy.com/ john neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Thursday, 04/29/99 11:53:47 GMT Good stuuf John! I'll put them on the links list. Now Olle, all you have to do is get all these folks that wrote the articles together! Or sugest that they sponsor a forum. I'll still do it if there is a need. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 04/29/99 15:10:36 GMT i'm looking for local blacksmiths in the nyc, brooklyn vicinity. any suggestions? i have a master's from cranbrook, under Gary Griffin, i've been working as a welder at a scenic shop and doing freelance. email me , kristina , kkozak at mindspring.com kristina -- kkozak at mindspring.com - Sunday, 05/02/99 19:07:54 GMT I need an anvil, I want to relive the days of my youth in England when as a student in High School I did metal shop. Loved every minit of it. Martin Redman -- 42844 at msn.com - Sunday, 05/09/99 21:24:41 GMT Guru, and the honorable "Colour Guard", A name for the contest referenced at the top of the page. How about "ASH"? Anvilfire Scrap Hammer Ralph Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Monday, 05/10/99 14:29:57 GMT To Ollie and Bruce, I know this doesn't exactly answer your questions, but you should trying traveling to India and observing the smiths there. They deal with very harsh economic realities and also have the most primitive of shops, it might give you some insight into history. Mr Weygers travelled to Bali and found village smiths with primitive forges earning their living as tool makers. Oppi Untract travelled to Africa and India and found smiths still performing as the primary tool source for the area. Just a thought. Chris -- kilpe4 at gte.net - Friday, 05/14/99 14:42:57 GMT Ralph, Guru and I talked on the to Madison and back. He liked your suggestion for the Anvilfire Scrap Hammer, but has been too busy to respond. He'll do it soon, I'm sure. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 05/17/99 00:41:49 GMT Guru, How about 'ASH BASH' (Anvilfire/Scrap/Hammer)for the hammer competition at the conference? Ralph BTW, I have learned a lot just hanging out and listening and chatting with all on your site. Thanks! Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Monday, 05/17/99 14:43:42 GMT hey guys how are things wet in seattle grizz -- tilliegriz at aol.com - Tuesday, 05/18/99 04:32:58 GMT Ralph, I'm sorry I hadn't responded to your messages. Been up to my neck in aligators and have'nt been able to drain the swamp. . . ASH is a great arcromym but I'm not too keen on the "ashes" association. . . "ASH BASH" sort of works but still has the ashes. . . Keep trying. This is the kind of thing I'm lousy at and I need you guys to HELP! Glad you are picking up some good info here. I'm afraid I haven't had as much time as I'd like for adding new articles and editing the FAQs. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 05/18/99 12:26:26 GMT >ASH is a great arcromym but I'm not too keen on the "ashes" association. . Fair enough. Ok how about Millennium Bash? Or YIIK Smash? In honor of the year. Ralph Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Tuesday, 05/18/99 17:29:28 GMT Yiik? OK, here's an idea, The ARM hammer (Anvilfire Recycled Materials hammer). . . sorta like Arm & Hammer. . . What can you guys do with that? Its a competition but its not. . Its an event with minor contests. . A trial? The 2000 ARM Hammer Trials? Now if *I* work this out there won't be a prize. . . I know you guys can do better. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 05/19/99 03:13:14 GMT Gee, and I thought my WROUGHT BOTS and MAIDENS OF HAEPHESTUS suggestions were bad! (J/K) Chris -- kilpe4 at gte.net - Wednesday, 05/19/99 13:37:56 GMT OK!OK! It was supposed to be Y2K (YIIK) (smile) Hmmmm? ARM? How about "ARM by Fire"? "ARM's Way"? Gimmie a little bit!(smile) Ralph Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Wednesday, 05/19/99 14:29:25 GMT Looking for anvils, isn't everybody' good used... David Logan -- brodside at mssl.uswest.net - Wednesday, 05/19/99 16:18:41 GMT http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104519727 here is a anvil that is not found every day............ bob -- jrf at hovac.com - Friday, 05/21/99 03:00:16 GMT Bob, Indeed that is an anvil that's rare. A mousehole, probably forged around 1825, and in durn near perfect condition. The price isn't bad either. Guru, take note. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 05/21/99 14:54:34 GMT You can count on the price on Ebay to got out of sight. Which they already have. Speaking of which, Jim, you need to get new glasses or have your head checked since the accident. Its NOT a mousehole. Read the ad! I couldn't use it if I bought it. Too pretty of an antique. Maidens of Haephestus??????? You guys are still come up with NAMES not a title for a competition. . . Jock D. -- webmater at anvilfire.com - Friday, 05/21/99 21:58:39 GMT Jock, Thought I saw Sheffield, England on the side. Now my week, I guess. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 05/22/99 01:44:22 GMT Now I know it's NOT my week. (wry grin) Insurance Company is looking for a new truck body for me. Old one is totaled. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 05/22/99 01:45:46 GMT ok ok it is my anvil.. come bid on it <:0) .. what a bargen so go look at http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104519727 i would be happy for you to have a rare anvil. and so would my bank acount hehe........ bob -- jrf at hovac.com - Sunday, 05/23/99 05:24:04 GMT ok ok it is my anvil.. come bid on it <:0) .. what a bargen so go look at http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104519727 i would be happy for you to have a rare anvil. and so would my bank acount hehe........ bob -- jrf at hovac.com - Sunday, 05/23/99 05:24:19 GMT I am currently custom forging golf club heads. Anyone that has or knows of methods or trade secrets on this form of smithing please reply. Thank You, Par Forge Golf Greg Hubbard -- parforgglf at aol.com - Sunday, 05/23/99 18:35:47 GMT I Want To Be A Blacksmith!!!!!!! Raidan 5 -- Raidan 5 at aol.com - Monday, 05/24/99 13:12:50 GMT Greg, They wouldn't be "trade secrets" if we told you. I think the keys "secrets" are, Titanium, A BIG drop hammer (more power!), and lots of hype about how you designed them using secret military CADD software (or some other line of BS). Radian 5, lets see 5 x PI = 15.7079632679489661923132169163975. . . . Anyone CAN BE a blacksmith with a little study and the necessary tools. When I was demonstrating blacksmithing there was always some wiseacre that would say, "I could do THAT". I always wanted to snap back with, "Yeah, so where's your tools ____ ?" I've taught 8 year olds, I've taught women, I know a blacksmith that doesn't have use of his legs. . . Almost anyone can BE a blacksmith if they want to. See my article on Getting Started (main page and guru page). Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 05/24/99 21:51:49 GMT I would like to purchase a Yoder, or Pettingell deep throat power hammer.To be used in forming sheetmetal panels. Any leads would be appreciated. E-mail, or phone 360 736-6548 Alyn Swedberg -- swedberg at localaccess.com - Tuesday, 05/25/99 21:15:31 GMT Looking for blacksmithing equipment have some to sell or trade, you can catch me on the slack tub between 9 and 10 weekdays Ray - Wednesday, 05/26/99 02:55:16 GMT Guru, How about "Desert Bash" for the Hammer competition? Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Friday, 05/28/99 20:14:48 GMT Looking for a 25# or 50# Little Giant in working condition. With or without motor. I line near the Jacksonvill, Florida area and am willing to travel up to 1000 miles. e-mail info or call (904)261-9537 Randall Guess -- rguess at hotmail.com / rdguess at bellsouth.net - Saturday, 05/29/99 19:40:06 GMT Ralph, Hmmmmmmmmmm. . . Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 05/30/99 02:12:53 GMT Hi, my name is motti, I am an Israeli blacksmith/welder with 8 years experience. I would be interested in finding a working/learning position with a very experienced smith in the New-York area to continue my training in our proffesion. If anyone is interested my resume,references & photo's of my work can be made available. Thanks Motti. motti silvio gruss -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Sunday, 05/30/99 15:40:11 GMT Does anyone have any suggestions for things to keep in mind when selecting a plasma cutter? I see there are several that are rated up to 1/4" (I'm mostly interested in using it to cut sheet stock up to 10 ga). What's the difference between 90° and 70° torches? Mark Layton -- layton at awi-smi.com - Tuesday, 06/01/99 17:19:45 GMT have 2 hammers need to sale :nazel 6b self contained 40 hp and niles 1000lb not self contained does any one want or know where I can sell them. both run excellent e-mail any questions andrew williamson -- metal8481 at aol.com - Wednesday, 06/02/99 21:36:56 GMT G'Day all, I'm looking for some info. on becoming a blacksmith and this looks like the place to ask. If you have time to spare could you mail me at mikecottrell at home.com ? Thanks Mike Cottrell -- mikecottrell at home.com - Wednesday, 06/02/99 22:14:32 GMT need help with identification of old forge. can anyone help? jim -- jeanc at huntnet.net - Friday, 06/04/99 03:07:26 GMT I just bought a 65kg hunk of "tool steel" to go on top of the engineblock on the power hammer Im building .Is this a waste of this kinda metal? ,I guess its just high carbon ,bout 400 x400 x30 only cost me 10 dollars aussie Can anyone tell me the outcome of the debate over shockabsorbers as a linkage on the junkyard hammer Ive got 2 good shocks and am keen to use them but.... I loose sleep over this , I hate wasting time building stuff that dont work! Im goint to build mine according to the new plan I saw here that had the differential below the anvil and was thinking about using 2 car seat runners as guides what do you think? Do the dies on this kind of linkage loose contact with the work after a few hits as I can imagine or do they open up enough on each "up" stroke to be ready for the next hit. s.sugrue -- sjs at chariot.net.au - Friday, 06/04/99 05:13:58 GMT RAY NAGER AND PARTNER HAVE OPENED A NEW 10,000 SQ FT FACILITY IN THE POMPANO BEACH FL AREA. A LARGE MOVE FROM THIER FORMER LOCATION IN TAMPA, FL. THE COMPANY IS CALLED METALSMITHS, INC. AND WE ARE DEDICATED TO THE OLD WORLD CRAFT. THEREFORE, WE WILL BE STARTING BLACKSMITHING CLASSES IN SEPTEMBER FOR THE NOVICE AND ADVANCED BOTH. FOR ANY INFORMATION PLEASE CALL OR EMAIL US. 1-954-545-0088 THANK YOU AND HAPPY HAMMERING. andrew williamson -- metal8481 at aol.com - Friday, 06/04/99 16:01:49 GMT Want to learn Old Ways of Blacksmithing.From set to to Sword Making and Ironwork to Armour....can Ya Help? MacKinnon -- WarArmour at aol.com - Friday, 06/04/99 18:46:04 GMT S.Sugrue, There are pros and cons to the shock absorber linkage. On the pro side it is relatively easy to build. On the con side it doesn't hit very hard and cannot be run fast. Besides being a simple linkage it compensates for large changes in work height without any adjustments. It works better for detailed work like chasing than it does for heavy drawing. I'm looking at a modification using a flat spring about 14" (360mm) wide with the shocks attached to the ends in a triangle. The middle of the spring would be clamped to the top of the ram. The spring would produce the extra travel that produces a harder hit while the shocks still do their compensation thing. IF this doesn't work the shocks can be replaced with solid links and the hammer will still have been worth building. The mods are not a big job but until I have significant R&D time I won't be able to get to it and report on the results. One of the most complex parts of constructing a mechanical hammer is compensating for changing tool and work height (beyond the range of the toggle mechanism's limited range). The shock absorber is not the best solution but it has been proven to work. The car seat runners are generaly not very heavy OR very tight as guides go. They are designed for static use with occasional adjustment. If you could arrange two sets on either side (4 guides) it might hold up. Its hard to say without seeing the parts. If you want to build a hammer that requires little experimentation to work, build an air hammer. Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 06/04/99 23:43:11 GMT S.Sugrue, That piece of tool steel DOES seem like a waste but on the other hand it is difficult to make little more usable pieces out of a big hunk like that. In the user built hammer buisness you use what you can find. Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 06/04/99 23:47:21 GMT MacKinnon, There is lots of help on this page. Take time to explore it and read the article Getting Started and the book reviews. We will certainly try to answer any specific questions you have. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 06/04/99 23:49:58 GMT Hi! Nowadays I spend a good amount of time while I fill small orders for Ironwork wondering how it might be to have more work and possibly stay in my shop on a regular basis! Possible marketing strategies and promoting the craft on a full time scale instead of a word of mouth approach! Question (for anyone who might be interested in forging iron on a buisness basis) If I were to go to 1 dozen blacksmith shops with the intentions of getting bids for the same piece of work, how much per hour would the capable blacksmith charge? Anyone wishing to talk buisness? Tim Tim -- ccforge at alaska.net - Saturday, 06/05/99 16:54:22 GMT Hi! I have a question... I have a Little Giant power hammer that my great uncles used to make plow shears it still works great the original electric motor still runs. About what would it be worth?? I forgot to mention its a 25# hammer. bobcat -- bobcat at bemail.com - Sunday, 06/06/99 03:21:26 GMT Tim, That "going rate" will vary a good deal, depending on location. Here in North Carolina, most of us try to charge around $30 an hour give or take a couple of dollars. I would expect the rate in larger metropolitan areas to be higher. I would expect the rate to be even higher in Alaska. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 06/06/99 11:25:16 GMT I might start asking all my questions here instead of s.sugrue -- sjs at chariot.net.au - Sunday, 06/06/99 13:41:09 GMT hey I lost most of my post here it is again , i was trying to say u guys do a good job of replying to posts , get more info here than "theforge" mailing list. 3 q's? if I may Do I need a rubber "mat" under my power hammer base will be railway sleepers and mabey someconcrete floor is concrete Does shape of the mass used as anvil matter? Im using a large pice of plate as top over an engine block its 450x450x35 is this too spread out? cut in half mabey? what about air gaps between the two I will braze them together and both surfaces are machined but still see air gaps will this affect the "reboundability"? thanks for your time s.sugrue -- sjs at chariot.net.au - Sunday, 06/06/99 15:04:40 GMT hey I lost most of my post here it is again , i was trying to say u guys do a good job of replying to posts , get more info here than "theforge" mailing list. 3 q's? if I may Do I need a rubber "mat" under my power hammer base will be railway sleepers and mabey someconcrete floor is concrete Does shape of the mass used as anvil matter? Im using a large pice of plate as top over an engine block its 450x450x35 is this too spread out? cut in half mabey? what about air gaps between the two I will braze them together and both surfaces are machined but still see air gaps will this affect the "reboundability"? thanks for your time s.sugrue -- sjs at chariot.net.au - Sunday, 06/06/99 15:07:41 GMT ------------------------- CAMP FENBY, Friday through Sunday -- June 25-27 This is a somewhat laid-back event, with generalized instruction for beginners and some specific and experimental work in medieval arts and crafts. Sort of an expanded hammer-in. Most people camp on-site or stay in some of the nearby (by our standard) motels. If you’re in the Mid-Atlantic area that weekend, please feel free to join in and participate. An abbreviated announcement follows. Please e-mail Thyri (see end of posting) for more information, and let her know you spotted it at ANVILFIRE! . Hope to see some of you there. Atli --------------------------- Camp Fenby -- sponsored by the Longship Company -- is taking place on Oakley Farm (Atli's place) on Thursday, June 24 (for setup only) through the early afternoon on Sunday, June 27. This annual event consists of outdoor craft workshops taught by people interested in crafts that originated in the Middle Ages. Medieval clothes are not required -- it tends to get quite hot! Atli traditionally holds several sessions teaching blacksmithing in his forge and will probably have a second portable forge set up this year with another teacher. There is a nominal site fee ($10/person or $15/family) to cover the cost of the port-a-jons. People may camp on site, near the barns or in the woods. There are a lot of classes being scheduled this year: * Pit-fired pottery (pottery must be made in advance and well dried) Friday 11-4 * Soapstone carving Friday 11-12:30 -- MUST PRE-REGISTER BY SENDING $10 BY 6/12/99 TO JAN DERRY * Anglo Saxon Wrist Clasps Friday 2-4 * Norse Garb lecture Friday 4-6 * Silversmithing Friday 4-6, Saturday 2-4 * Basic and Experimental Nalbinding Friday 2-4, Saturday 10-12 * Basic tablet-weaving Saturday 10-12 * Blacksmithing Various * Small Loom Workshop Saturday 2-4 -- MUST PRE-REGISTER BY SENDING $5 BY 6/12/99 TO JAN DERRY * Medieval woodworking with Viking-style tools in combination with an attempt to build an early loom Saturday 4-6 * Experiment on Period Finishes (milk paint on tent canvas) Saturday 2-4 * Glass beadmaking -- open torch Saturday 10-12, 4-6 * Basketweaving Saturday 4-6 * Ship Experiment -- riveting boards with copper rivets Saturday 10-12, Sunday 10-12 * Whittling -- carving wood/bone in the round Sunday 10-12 * Basic Stitches of the Bayeax Tapestry Sunday 10-12 Teachers may charge a small supplies fee. By popular request, there will also be a sing-along near the forge on Saturday night (and possibly Friday night too). And there will be a crab feast for those interested in stuffing themselves with crustaceans (costs extra). Registration This is a non-public official event in which non-Marklanders are also welcome to attend and participate. Please contact Thyri (Terese Scott) at 703-359-7081 or 12313 Sleepy Lake Ct, Fairfax, VA 22033 or thyri at pressroom.com for more information. She will mail out flyers, maps, class schedule, and other info to those who contact her. She would also like to register people in advance, so the teachers know how many to expect. Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Monday, 06/07/99 02:49:43 GMT 15 YEAR OLD BEGINNER NEEDS TOOLS. Can anyone give advice on where to find good used tools at a reasonable price? William Hopkins -- raykeckler at juno.com - Tuesday, 06/08/99 16:59:16 GMT 15 YEAR OLD BEGINNER NEEDS TOOLS. Can anyone give advice on where to find good used tools at a reasonable price? William Hopkins -- raykeckler at juno.com - Tuesday, 06/08/99 16:59:56 GMT My favorite sources are flea markets and the lower end antique stores. Also, check with friends, relatives, and nearby farms or ranches. Some of these have the old equipment, but find it faster to call the farrier or haul out the arc welder. Good luck. Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Tuesday, 06/08/99 18:05:02 GMT Tim, Turn the question around. not how much can I charge, but how much do I need to make? Take your costs; fuel,metal, rent even from yourself, power, a percentage to amertize your tool investment and to create the capital to buy or build more(after all if your not here for the tools and the chance to use them why are you here?),and anything else you regullery buy for your shop. Add to that number what you need to earn to live at the level your wife will accept(this one took me a long time to learn and cost me more than one wife). add the two together for an annual number divide by the amount of hours you want to work a day and the number of days you want to work a year and you have your hourly cost of shop time. Now you have to sell the stuf. If you go to a craft show double the price of your goods based on your shop rate, you need to get paid for selling. Its expensive to do, it takes time, you could be forging, and it allows you to sell wholesale and still make your shop rate. No retailer will buy anything from you that he has to sell for twice the amount you are selling it for at shows. After a while you will know what you want to make and what people like to buy try to find a common ground. remember this is too much like hard work not to have fun! Toby Hickman -- waylan at sprynet.com - Saturday, 06/12/99 15:44:41 GMT Tim, Turn the question around. not how much can I charge, but how much do I need to make? Take your costs; fuel,metal, rent even from yourself, power, a percentage to amertize your tool investment and to create the capital to buy or build more(after all if your not here for the tools and the chance to use them why are you here?),and anything else you regullery buy for your shop. Add to that number what you need to earn to live at the level your wife will accept(this one took me a long time to learn and cost me more than one wife). add the two together for an annual number divide by the amount of hours you want to work a day and the number of days you want to work a year and you have your hourly cost of shop time. Now you have to sell the stuf. If you go to a craft show double the price of your goods based on your shop rate, you need to get paid for selling. Its expensive to do, it takes time, you could be forging, and it allows you to sell wholesale and still make your shop rate. No retailer will buy anything from you that he has to sell for twice the amount you are selling it for at shows. After a while you will know what you want to make and what people like to buy try to find a common ground. remember this is too much like hard work not to have fun! Toby Hickman -- waylan at sprynet.com - Saturday, 06/12/99 15:45:08 GMT Jock, sorry for the double post. I just did what bill gates told me to do Toby Hickman -- waylan at sprynet.com - Saturday, 06/12/99 15:47:03 GMT S. Sugrue, you will get faster responses on the the "guru" page. I only check here once a week or so but I check the guru page several times a day when I can. If you hammer is on a heavy wood base it shouldn't need a rubber mat. Anvil shape does matter. Your plate would be more efficient turned on edge than laying flat. . . The inefficiency of a "stacked" anvil is just as bad as the spread out plate. However compactness still has several advantages. For one it IS compact, takes less space. I would half the plate and then half one piece again to make three pieces. The big piece would be a load distribution plate and the other two are plenty big 8.5" x 8.5" (225 x 225mm). Air gaps do reduce the rebound considerably so finish the piece the best you can and then weld them toether. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Saturday, 06/12/99 20:32:10 GMT Tim, Read Toby's post three times, then print it out and memorize it! Toby, VERY good analysis! Well presented, too. Worth posting twice! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 06/12/99 21:37:05 GMT 25 years in the learning, Jim. I hope this new generation of pros learns it faster than I did. Toby Hickman -- waylan at sprynet.com - Sunday, 06/13/99 03:47:12 GMT Toby, Took longer for me, but didn't cost me any wives. Fortunately, I married a woman of almost unlimited patience. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 06/13/99 12:48:42 GMT OK guys, research time. I've found a gorgeous Buffalo Forge. It's complete, hand crank blower than can be valved to create a forced draft chimney or to supply air blast to the fire, or both. Has a side mount hood with stove pipe adapter. About 36" X 36". Cast iron table, square cast iron firepot, table has a slack tub cast into it, and also has a second slack tub hanging on the side opposite the hood. (probably a brine tub) Cast into the hood are the words, "Buffalo Forge Co." "Buffalo, NY" and "number 8660" The number (8660) may not be accurate, it's hard to read. But I'm fairly certain of the first two numbers. Obviously, it's a Buffalo forge. But about how old is it? About how much is it worth? The blower is frozen, but I think some WD49 and some patience can cure that. The cast iron is in suprisingly good condition. Some rust, of course, but seems to all be sound. If I buy it (and I probably will) will clean first, possibly sandblast, and put it back to work. Any ideas where I can find out more about it? Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 06/14/99 00:07:54 GMT Does anyone out there have aline on a Nazel 2B hammer for parts. I need the anvil and cell block in particular. Thanks T. J. Marrone -- tjmarrone at aol.com - Wednesday, 06/16/99 04:48:53 GMT Does anyone out there have aline on a Nazel 2B hammer for parts. I need the anvil and cell block in particular. Thanks T. J. Marrone -- tjmarrone at aol.com - Wednesday, 06/16/99 04:49:16 GMT I looking for blacksmith/metalworking classes in the Los Angeles area. Anyone know of any? Thanks, Deborah djewoods at pacificnet.net Deborah Woods -- djewoods at pacificnet.net - Thursday, 06/17/99 21:23:49 GMT Deborah, try http://www.proactivedirect.com/cba/cba2d.html for the schedual and locations of classes offered by the California Blacksmith Association we have classes that progress from absoloute novis to advanced intermediate. After that you are on your own. also available on that web site is a schedual of CBA events around the state. Toby Toby Hickman -- waylan at sprynet.com - Friday, 06/18/99 05:58:51 GMT Less than a week 'till Camp Fenby. Se posting of Monday, 06/07/99 02:49:43 GMT, above. Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Sunday, 06/20/99 03:20:13 GMT I haven't posted in while but i finally have something to say. As a resident of minnesota I went to theme park in Chisholm, Minnesota a couple of weeks ago. The Park is called Iron World. Why not? It's right in the heart of the iron range. They have resident blacksmith there. I introduced myself as a beginner and we talked and he passed on lot of very helpful information. We talked about tools and he said, like many others, they are where you find them. Always keep looking and talk to anyone you know who might know where some might be. This group includes friends, relatives (you notice that these are seperate groups,) professional contacts, (even your lawyer may have knowledge of an estate with tools,) the place you get your car serviced.....the list is endless. Heck I even have my barber looking for me. Finders fee involved in this one. I went to a farm auction this last weekend and lo' and behold a post drill, dusty and stiff but complete and little cleaning and lubrication and it's back in service for $2.00. The was a post vice there too but when one of the kids who grew up there and now lives in California was biding against me I let it go. He bought it for $25.00. We were later talking and I told him I was a prcticing the craft. He Asked me If I would keep it for him for two to three years... It seems that Blacksmithing brings together some of the best people. jim Minnesota Jim -- jumn at brainerd.net - Tuesday, 06/22/99 18:47:29 GMT Does anyone know who made anvils with a trdemark composed of an arm swinging a hammer, very similar to the logo on arm & hammer baking soda? Thanks. Bob Rackers -- rackersr at one.net - Tuesday, 06/22/99 22:44:49 GMT Bob Rackers, The Arm & Hammer anvil was produced by the Columbus Anvil and Forging Company of Columbus, Ohio, between the years 1900 and 1950. Richard Postman, author of ANVILS IN AMERICA, the only book on anvils that has ever been written considers the Arm & Hammer to be "undoubtedly one of the finest wrought anvils ever manufactured anywhere." Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 06/22/99 23:44:10 GMT If anyone could point me in the direction of information on forging leghold traps it would be greatly appreciated. I would like to try smithing some traps for some buckskinner friends of mine. Thanks. Matt -- mneuman at libby.org - Wednesday, 06/23/99 04:57:39 GMT Matt, Depending on where you are located, the easies way might be to go to a country hardward store and buy a small one. A number three animal trap would be a good size, and it should cost less than $20. All leg hold traps are made in basically the same way. There are some variations of how the two pieces that do the actual holding are shaped, but not much. All the ones larger than a number 5, the holding pieces have teeth cut into them, before that those pieces are smooth. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 06/23/99 14:19:06 GMT Matt, BTW, if you can't find a #3 animal trap, let me know. I think I've still got a couple from my younger days! (grin) The first person that says ANYTHING about antiques is in SERIOUS trouble! (nother grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 06/23/99 18:58:54 GMT Paw Paw (big evil grin) do you remember how much a possem hide would bring? But as far as making a leg hold trap, on the springs ,would you use a mediun carbon steel, and then heat treat it, or how would you go about it ? Toby -- kiamichi at msn.com - Wednesday, 06/23/99 21:03:23 GMT Toby, About 50 cents, depending on the time of year. (grin) I'd use regular mild steel, a 1018 or 1020. After the forging process was complete. I'd heat treat them using Rob Gunter's Soap Quench. It's sometimes called Super Quench. I'd do the jaws the same way, particularly if they were toothed jaws. And before someone asks, the formulat for Rob's soap quench is: ROB GUNTER'S SOAP QUENCH 4 1/2 gallons water 5 lbs. salt 32 oz. Dawn dish soap (blue) 8 oz. Shaklee Basic I Stir before each use For those who haven't heard of this, here is a little about it. We all know that mild steel is not supposed to harden because of low carbon content. A cold chisel made out of mild steel heated to a dull red and quenched in the soap solution will cut a piece from the same stock you made it from. Don't get me wrong, it will not make tool steel from mild steel, but in those cases where you don't want to use tool steel and wish mild steel was just a little harder, it works fine. Someone a while back was talking about fire strikers-also RR spike knives-this quench works well. I use the spikes marked HC (high carbon) for knives-the others for letter openers. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 06/23/99 22:57:45 GMT i have an anvil for sale it is in very good shape its weight is 535 lbs it is a horned anvile i live in south east texas clw -- xelma at aol.com - Thursday, 06/24/99 03:30:40 GMT anybody uses, makes, sells a leghold trap ought in all good conscience try it out on some protuberant part of his /her own bod first to see if it works humanely. john neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Thursday, 06/24/99 13:24:07 GMT PawPaw, Most antiques are younger than you! But we all knew that anyhow.(grin) Ralph Douglass Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Thursday, 06/24/99 13:58:39 GMT Toby, PawPaw re traps The traps that we make at Fort Vancouver NHS use med to hi carbon steel for the springs. Also the traps as made in the 1840 we fairly complex. 3 forge welds. The base was welded together. Then the jaw post have a weld in them. If you are interested in the plans I will see if I can find them the next time I am at the fort. Ralph Ralph D. -- ralphd at jps.net - Thursday, 06/24/99 14:04:02 GMT Ralph, God'll get you for that! Assuming I don't get to you first! BTW, I'd like to see the plans All, When your ANVIL'S RING comes in this month, check out the full page ad on page 3. It's about a web site we're all familiar with. And then on page 13, there's an event listed as one of the ABANA2000 events that we've been reading about in the Virtual Hammerin. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 06/25/99 00:31:54 GMT Anybody out there able to help me with a problem I've come up with after making curtain rods and rings for an Arts and Crafts Manor. They were first hammered and then,to acheive a warmer, more antiqued patina I brushed on a solution used for aging gun barrels that has nitric acid and sodium phosphate while still warm. Then finally I waxed them. All looked great until they started rusting and flaking badly. I then heated them all up til red and wired brushed them and then waxed them thinking this would solve the rust problem.....but alas the rust is creeping through. Any ideas, suggestions, solutions would be much appreciated. Thnaks Lou Mccutcheon -- McWall at aol.com - Friday, 06/25/99 06:20:31 GMT Lou, I may be WAY off base hear but if you used an acid did you nuetralize it afterwards? It seems as if you don't it will keep working(slowly perhaps) Ralph Douglass Ralph D -- ralphd at jps.net - Friday, 06/25/99 06:24:52 GMT Lou, As Ralph mentioned, if you didn't neutralize, that' probably the problem. Try using a fairly strong solution of Baking Soda and water. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 06/25/99 14:14:18 GMT Hi all, I'm new to smithing. Trying to put together my tools. Does anyone know of a 25# little giant for sale in the MN. area? Bob Bob -- randd at primenet.com - Tuesday, 06/29/99 00:44:03 GMT So about a year and a half ago, I bought over 300 Heller Bros. brand new hot cut hardies made for the US Army in the 40s. I've been selling them slowly but steadily at California meetings, via the web and by mail. I'm down to about 70 now and not a complaint yet. If you want one or more, send me $24 ($20 for the hardy, $4 for Priority Mail) and I'll send them out the morning after I get your check. Andy Morrison, 2197 N. Allen Ave., Altadena, CA 91001 (626-798-6588). When they're gone, they're gone. andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Tuesday, 06/29/99 16:51:08 GMT So about a year and a half ago, I bought over 300 Heller Bros. brand new hot cut hardies made for the US Army in the 40s. I've been selling them slowly but steadily at California meetings, via the web and by mail. I'm down to about 70 now and not a complaint yet. If you want one or more, send me $24 ($20 for the hardy, $4 for Priority Mail) and I'll send them out the morning after I get your check. Andy Morrison, 2197 N. Allen Ave., Altadena, CA 91001 (626-798-6588). When they're gone, they're gone. andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Tuesday, 06/29/99 17:04:36 GMT Sorry about the repeat message. I'll get the hang of this infernal machine yet andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Tuesday, 06/29/99 17:06:54 GMT Andy: What's the shank size? (Once saw a hardy mounted shank side up in a display case at a National Scenic River. Wonder if they've corrected it for me?) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Tuesday, 06/29/99 18:29:28 GMT Bruce, They're 3/4" shank. I have a 7/8" hardy hole. I use a split piece of thinwall square tubing with the top edges bent over for tabs as a shim. Fits perfectly. Andy Andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Tuesday, 06/29/99 22:06:05 GMT Hey, I ran across a problem today I need to know how to hand forge lag bolts and screws. Is there any advice for me? George I. Pare' from NFHP -- heritage at ncia.net - Thursday, 07/01/99 01:53:01 GMT George, I'd hand twist the threads for a lag screw, and then seat the head in a special header. For bolts, make the shank, set the head in a header, and then thread the shank. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 07/01/99 03:24:37 GMT George, Forgot to mention that after twisting the threads for a lag screw, you'd want to go over them with a thread file to clean them up. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 07/01/99 03:26:19 GMT Paw-Paw didn't mention the shape to forge the shank for twisting. Square works, but triangle section is better. Twist it till it looks about right, then use a torch to heat the spot (very short heat) where the point should be and continue twisting. The bar will neck down and twist off giving a pretty good point. The twist at the point will be tighter, but the wood don't seem to care! grant -- nakedanvil at forgetools.com - Thursday, 07/01/99 14:18:54 GMT Grant, Didn't think of that, but you're right. One for you! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 07/01/99 15:35:01 GMT Paw Paw, I take it the first thing I do is convert the shank of the bolt to a sharp cornered rectangular shape and then twist it evenly for the threads. For the tip I had the Idea of flattening it and then twisting. Would this work? I wan't to do it right the first time as the rest of the peice attached to the lag section involved allot of work, and I'd hate to ruen it. George I. Pare' -- heritage at ncia.net - Friday, 07/02/99 01:54:14 GMT Almost forgot to mention: twist COUNTER-CLOCKWISE if you want a right hand thread, seems backward I know, try it! grant -- nakedanvil at forgetools.com - Friday, 07/02/99 02:39:12 GMT not me. I do what any right-thinking American blacksmith ought to do, which is go down to the hardware store, buy me a swatch of Korea's finest, grind the fake letters off the heads, cook the finish off the little buggers, and fry 'em in motor oil. john neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Friday, 07/02/99 04:16:21 GMT John, Me too. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 07/02/99 08:41:28 GMT George I. Pare', Sorry for the delay, somehow I missed your post. Not a rectangular shape, as Grant suggested shape it to a triangular cross section for a lag screw. For a bolt, you'd want to start with round stock the same size as the shank of the bolt, then upset one end, shape the head with a header, then thread with a regular threading die. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 07/02/99 17:31:46 GMT Hint for finding anvils: Put an ANVIL WANTED ad in the miscellaneous FOR SALE section of your local newspaper's classified section. I did this a couple of years ago, and got over twenty calls. I bought two (125 and 265 pounds) for reasonable prices. Of course I had to sift through the ones that had been through fires or were just worn out, but all-in-all it was a good way to go. Mark Layton -- layton at awi-smi.com - Friday, 07/02/99 19:53:36 GMT Paw Paw, Thanks alloth for the bolt advice. Succsess has been acheived! George I. Pare' -- heritage at ncia.net - Friday, 07/02/99 20:22:26 GMT George, Good show! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 07/02/99 21:31:02 GMT Hello! My beautiful hip-flask died a horrible death last year; after a night of enthusiastic use, it threw itself beneath the front wheel of a Jeep, and is now more suitable for use as a bookmark than for holding anything useful. Still, it has sentimental value and I'd like to get it fixed. I've talked to a few jewelers, and they say it's out of their range. Any hints on where I might look for somebody in Wisconsin to perform surgery on the thing? Thanks a lot! cheers, Matthew Stratton Matthew Stratton -- mgsimpso at facstaff.wisc.edu - Saturday, 07/10/99 23:09:38 GMT New at this. Would like info on 25 to 150 lb. powerhammers. Donald Walter -- donbev at pld.com - Sunday, 07/11/99 17:50:39 GMT Donald, Welcome to Anvilfire! I'm not exactly sure what info you are looking for, but let me suggest that you check the Power Hammer Page here at Anvilvire. If you still have questions, they can be posted on the guru's page. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 07/11/99 19:01:47 GMT Somewhere on the net I saw a link to a picture of an anvil someone had restored. If anyone knows about it or can send me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I just got a 156# Peter Wright, and I need to do some minor dressing out on the face, but I'd like to give it some thought and solicit more advice before I go to it. What I need to think about primarily is the radiusing (i.e. rounding) of the edge(s), how much and where. Any advice is also appreciated. Gotten some advice already, but more is always appreciated. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll have raised my experience level to almost qualify as a Newbie. Looking forward to it. Then I'll have some REAL questions. Thanks. Bob Rackers -- rackersr at one.net - Tuesday, 07/13/99 18:10:46 GMT Bob. Everyone has an opinion on this one. Some folks like sharp edges and will do anything to keep them that way. The conventional wisdom is to radius the edges where heavy work is to be done (the middle and up to the step. In the past they used to recommend a heavy chamfer on the first half (towards the horn) and slightly radiused edges on the rest. However, this type of grind is seldom seen. Since I DO NOT recommend anvil repair (welding) unless it is absolutely necessary (the anvil being useless prior to repair) I do recommend radiusing as necessary to clean up uneven wear or chipped edges. As in many things in life, good judgment and common sense are required before making any changes in an anvil. It is NOT just a lump of iron. It is a deceptively sophisticated tool often made of several materials and heattreated at a great deal of effort and expense. Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 07/15/99 23:58:37 GMT There is a floor cone and swedge block on ebay, but as all good equiptment, will go for a high price. Good luck. Toby -- kiamichi at msn.com - Friday, 07/16/99 08:24:56 GMT wtb Hossfeld No.2, w tooling, esp. for flat stock the hard way, reasonable, w/in 1/2 day of ABQ. don't you molest that poor defenseless anvil! john neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Friday, 07/16/99 22:05:48 GMT two 4x4x2ft high crates of spring swages[19] heading tools,lg tongs[50pr] drifts[30-50,round/hex/sq.]These are tradesmans tools from a closed shop, spring swages[up to 2"] vertical band sawwith 24+throat/motor2201ph650.00/lgChampion Drillpress/conepulley/belts#3morse,650.00non motorized tools to be soldas a lot,best offer,location is northern Calif. Jock, thanks for the ability to post on this great site. Draw saw/ David Schiff -- dschiff at mcn.org - Monday, 07/19/99 00:32:17 GMT Blacksmith and horse shoer kirk -- renovatenc at msn.com - Wednesday, 07/21/99 04:23:09 GMT evening all jocannon - Thursday, 07/22/99 04:43:38 GMT looking for a used power hammer/25-100 lbs. not sure if i am on the right page to ask for this...ontario, canada.any info will help d. waugh anvil at falls.igs.net thanks d. waugh -- anvil at flals.igs.net - Saturday, 07/24/99 12:53:28 GMT D. Waugh, This was the right place to ask. I can't help, but contact Bruce Wallace (he has a link on the guru's page) of Wallace Ironworkds. You can trust Bruce and he frequently has used power hammers for sale. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 07/24/99 16:33:05 GMT Well I've had it! I'm gettin sick and tired of spending a lot of time and energy making nice things (relative) and having them rust or turn white or crack(paint). Do any of you guys have any suggestions to putting a clear finish on your work? Ive tried paste wax, clear acrylic, laquer and nothing seems to work. Fit to be tied in sweltering CT R. Blessey -- rustboo at aol.com - Monday, 07/26/99 02:16:27 GMT Well I've had it! I'm gettin sick and tired of spending a lot of time and energy making nice things (relative) and having them rust or turn white or crack(paint). Do any of you guys have any suggestions to putting a clear finish on your work? Ive tried paste wax, clear acrylic, laquer and nothing seems to work. Fit to be tied in sweltering CT R. Blessey -- rustboo at aol.com - Monday, 07/26/99 02:19:17 GMT Emil, forge101 at netscape.net is looking for a firepot. He is located in NY (see http://www.geocities.com:80/SoHo/Study/5544/index.html) for his OK Forge website. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 07/27/99 12:06:56 GMT W A R N I N G ! ! ! ! ! Some time within the last couple of days someone sent me a message with a file attached. The attachment was named HAPPY99. That file is a TROJAN/VIRUS. It will infect your system, and in turn will infect OTHER systems as you send out e-mail. I inadvertently infected: Andrew Hooper Bob Rackers Glenn Conners Jock Dempsy My most sincere apologies to all four of you! It would probably not be a good idea for me to find out who infected my system. I am NOT a happy camper, and I do have a somewhat violent temper which I have been known to lose on occasion. Jim (Paw Paw) Wilson Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 07/29/99 12:35:35 GMT RE: Virus/Trojan. If anyone has received by email a file called happy99 and run the file they will get a little fireworks display on their screen. If this has happend to you then your system will be infected and needs to be cleaned, email me and i can send you a copy of an application that will clean this virus/trojan. Regards Andrew Hooper -- andrew at best.net.nz - Thursday, 07/29/99 21:14:41 GMT All, OBTW The Happy99 Trojan did NOT come from the blacksmithing community. Someone sent it to Sheri yesterday. She remembers getting it, won't tell me who from. (probably a wise decision on her part) But since we both use the same computer for Internet access, it still passed on. She's not happy either, so I expect someone is going to get an earful! Her hair is more gray than red, but the temper still matches! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 07/29/99 22:56:25 GMT FOR SALE! 25 lb champion trip hammer. no motor. $500.00 Must have some way to get this thing home from Sacramento, California. Please email for photo. Thanks! Laura -- parkerl at arc.losrios.cc.ca.us - Monday, 08/02/99 02:03:46 GMT FOR SALE! 25 lb champion trip hammer. no motor. $500.00 Must have some way to get this thing home from Sacramento, California. Please email for photo. Thanks! Laura -- parkerl at arc.losrios.cc.ca.us - Monday, 08/02/99 02:04:08 GMT great to read the posts here ...I'm new to the trade ..learning as i go along ...in the process of setting the backyard and shed as a shop ...looking forward to an interesting process of becoming decent at it ...look forward to any pointers ...I'm into the sword smithing sandcasting lost wax casting side of things ...Shaun in Australia DewGraal -- bluestflame at hotmail.com - Monday, 08/02/99 10:58:02 GMT Hello, my first time to post a message. I am glad my wife fianally drug me into the 20th century and got us a computer and hooked us up to the internet. Was thrilled to no end to find kindered souls in blacksmithing on the net. my question is i have a Central Mach. Works power hammer fo sale and have no idea how much its worth? It was installed new in a auto factory aprox. 15 years ago. It is a model B1. and in good shape. any info will be greatly appreciated. Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Tuesday, 08/03/99 02:28:55 GMT If my friend Benny Rodgers of Florida is on the net please send me y our e-mail adress. I need to hear from you before festival time. Yours simply, Mike Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Tuesday, 08/03/99 02:33:00 GMT STiffy, A lot depends on the location of the hammer, and what it's head weight is. Given that information, we can give you a better idea as to value. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 08/03/99 13:18:11 GMT Wootze Steel discoveries: Try the following website and back links: http://www.eurekalert.org/releases/iom-tso072999.html Crucible steel on the 10th century Silk Road. Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Tuesday, 08/03/99 17:17:21 GMT hey, did anyone ever come up with a name for the power hammer event at ABANA 2000? Youngsmith out Youngsmith -- youngsmith at ccnmail.com - Thursday, 08/05/99 18:24:58 GMT Sorry for how late I'm posting on the subject, but if there is no name, how's about S.M.A.S.H. (Self Made And Styled Hammers) then it could be the SMASH in! Youngsmith out Youngsmith -- youngsmith at ccnmail.com - Thursday, 08/05/99 18:30:38 GMT Youngsmith, Not yet. Still looking for something as catchy as JYH. . . I kind of liked the ARM hammer. Gotta move on it and post the page for it. Been waiting for that GREAT name! Good try. I do like it. try some other words to fit. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 08/05/99 21:51:37 GMT How about The Hammer of Righteousness - THOR Andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Thursday, 08/05/99 22:27:00 GMT How about The Hammer of Righteousness - THOR Andy -- anjmorrison at earthlink.net - Thursday, 08/05/99 22:27:10 GMT All, A name for the Anvilfire Hammer Contest at ABANA2K, huh. Well, let's see now....... If we build the Cheapest Hammer In Town This Year and then we build the Cheapest Hammer In Town That Year, We could call the contest the CHITTY CHITTY BAM BAM! (evil grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 08/06/99 04:30:03 GMT Ah, Jim. I'll let you research the copyright issues. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 08/06/99 14:52:43 GMT Jock, Well we could always change it to Smallest Hammer In Town This Year, instead of Cheapest. Could change both parts of the name. : Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 08/06/99 15:05:57 GMT Hi. I'm looking to sell off an extra "Champion Midway" Forge and "Champion" blower. Both are in good condition. If you're interested, please contact me. Thanks. Kurt Ulrich -- big_t_forge at hotmail.com - Monday, 08/09/99 18:14:03 GMT If anyone has the address for Benny Rodgers in Florida, could they please e-mail it to me. I lost his snail mail address and i need to get ahold of him before the PCCB festival. thanks, Mike Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Monday, 08/09/99 21:58:06 GMT Jock Dempsy, have you ever considered selling your portable forge out fit displayed in blacksmithing into the 21 century? Either the origanal or a new manfg. one. This looks like a good time saver for smithys doing outdoor shows. thanks Mike Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Tuesday, 08/10/99 17:30:10 GMT I've lost the all my e-mail addresses after computer meltdown. I need to get in contact with Andrew Rokeby-Thomas a Canadian smith. If anyone knows how I can get hold of him, please let me know.Mike the Israeli smith mike manzie -- manzie at internet-zahav.net.il - Tuesday, 08/10/99 17:48:10 GMT Stiffy, If you're talking about the ultimate portable forge/trailer, you're too late! I got it! I persuaded the Museum where I demonstrate to purchase it for me. (grin) It's been refurbished, and looks and works great! I have to take a series of pictures this weeks sometime for the Museum. I'll digitize them for my own files, too. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 08/10/99 22:09:24 GMT Paw Paw, looks like the early bird gets the worm again. congrats, Stiffy Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Thursday, 08/12/99 08:03:48 GMT Stiffy, Let me hasten to add that I don't mind shareing the wealth. If you you are anywhere near central North Carolina, I'll be glad to show the forge trailer to you, help you measure, and draw so you can bukld one for yourself. If you're not within driving range, I'll make you a set of pictures when I do that. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 08/12/99 13:12:46 GMT Hello fellow smiths.. I am looking for the following books on Blacksmithing ...Blacksmith Cookbook Recipes in Iron .. Also a German one name as follows...Werk und Werkzeug des Kunstschmieds/Author Verlag-Ernst WasmuthTubingen{has excellent pictures}..Any ideas where I can get these ?? I will be back in North Bay Ont on my own computer on Monday 16th 1999...Thnks Barney the Blacksmith in North Bay Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Thursday, 08/12/99 23:57:24 GMT This is a really good group of pages I am a very new blacksmith but am no stranger to metalworking im a journeyman welder pipefitter from local #157 david -- lynn1 at ccrtc.com - Friday, 08/13/99 01:43:45 GMT Barny -- You need to contact Norm Larson, of Norm Larson Books. I don't have his e-mail here, but can look it up if you'd like. Norm had them both at the Caniron 2 conference, as well as a whole slew of others. Morgan Hall -- morganh at teleport.com - Friday, 08/13/99 15:47:48 GMT i have a nazel 3b mint condition for sale any one interested give me a call at 954-545-0089 or e-mail me the hammer will go fast so hurry ray nager -- metal8481 at aol.com - Friday, 08/13/99 15:52:33 GMT PawPaw, I know that the South has many 'unique' words and spellings, but you have a new one! "...draw so you can bukld one for yourself." I am not really sure I want to know what you guys are planning! SO whats up? Have not seen you posting much lately. Ralph Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Friday, 08/13/99 17:17:17 GMT Kinyon style hammer controls -gotta be another way? Love my hammer "the beast" (pic on the power hammer pages). However I am less than thrilled about the way of actuating the pilot valve. Currently I'm using the roller mechanism that works when the hammer passes the roller. Any of you folks pneumatically inclined?? I'm wondering about another accuation method - magnetic - electrical - optical?? Don't get me wrong -- control the current way is GREAT. It's the little roller that can get out of whack real quick that I don't like. Plain ol "Bill" -- wcottr at att.net - Friday, 08/13/99 20:01:35 GMT Plain ol "Bill, This web site has a modified Kinyon control circuit. Do not know if you have seen it or not. http://www.bham.net/afc/techniques/airhammer.html Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Friday, 08/13/99 21:50:33 GMT Thanks Ralph - but that is exactly the controls I used. Plain ol "Bill" -- wcottr at att.net - Saturday, 08/14/99 22:40:49 GMT anyone got a line on a set of flat dies for a 50 little giant. im too busy or too lazy(depending on how you look at it) to make my own. any response would be great! thanks and happy hot working hacksmith -- ferrous at worldnet.att.net - Tuesday, 08/17/99 00:36:24 GMT Thanks a lot Guru. You made me go spend more money. After reading your praise of the "Machinery's Handbook" bible, wouldn't you know it but I ended up seeing one today at the flea market. If it weren't for you, I'd have been able to walk right past it. Of course, now I'm hearing how hard they are to find. so I felt obligated to pick this one up. Nineteenth edition (Fourth printing, 1973) in exceptional condition. Please don't praise anything else. I'm liable to find it and run out of money. Bob Rackers -- rackersr at one.net - Wednesday, 08/18/99 19:48:53 GMT The Bay School of the Arts, a fine art and craft school in Mathews County, Virginia, offers courses in a variety of arts, including blacksmithing. For more information, contact: Bay School of the Arts P. O. Box 696 North, VA 21318 or email: jcove at inna.net, or VenezianoJ at aol.com jrf -- jrf at hovac.com - Thursday, 08/19/99 03:19:07 GMT The Bay School of the Arts, a fine art and craft school in Mathews County, Virginia, offers courses in a variety of arts, including blacksmithing. For more information, contact: Bay School of the Arts P. O. Box 696 North, VA 21318 or email: jcove at inna.net, or VenezianoJ at aol.com jrf -- jrf at hovac.com - Thursday, 08/19/99 03:19:38 GMT I have heard that there is a good blacksmiting convention called the Quad State Roundup in Troy Ohio sometime in September. Can anyone be so kind as to provide me with the details or a web site that explains same. Thanks in advance, Richar Hamilton, Ontario Artist Blacksmiths Association, London, Canada Richard Hamilton -- silver.rock at sympatico.ca - Friday, 08/20/99 02:39:55 GMT I have heard that there is a good blacksmiting convention called the Quad State Roundup in Troy Ohio sometime in September. Can anyone be so kind as to provide me with the details or a web site that explains same. Thanks in advance, Richar Hamilton, Ontario Artist Blacksmiths Association, London, Canada Richard Hamilton -- silver.rock at sympatico.ca - Friday, 08/20/99 02:46:05 GMT Richard, September 24th through the 26th. Miami County Fairgrounds,Troy, Ohio. Write to: SOFA Quad-State99 PO Box 34208 Huber Heights, OH 45424-0308 Or call: (937) 237-2200 Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 08/20/99 12:14:36 GMT My mother in-law has a anvil of her fathers and wants to get prices on how muchn it worth and a list of manufactures of anvils. Could anyone send me a wed address that deals w/ one of these topics. I would greatly appreciates it. My e-mail address is jhopkins at csinet.net. Thank U, Jason Hopkins Jason Hopkins -- jhopkins at csinet.net - Sunday, 08/22/99 16:35:08 GMT Jason, This it the web page that deals with those topics. Used anvils sell for up to $2.00 per pound. It depends on condition, who's buying and who's selling. As for list of manufactures, you would do better to get a copy of Postman's book, Anvils in America. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Sunday, 08/22/99 19:05:21 GMT I'm looking for info on Beaudry Hammers. I bought a #7 need to figure out what it weighs so it can be moved. Also am curious as to its rating. Thanks Norman Davis 785-286-3034 Norm Davis -- ND5002 at aol.com - Sunday, 08/22/99 23:03:28 GMT Norm, A Beaudry #7 is a 200Lb. hammer. A #7 belt driven hammer weighs 4,400Lbs. and a motor driven hammer weighs 5,000Lbs. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Monday, 08/23/99 06:32:39 GMT anvil for sale: 260 pd. Hay budden $390.00 a 1832 William Foster early english model 125 pds. for $250.00. 1780 or earlier colonial pattern anvil $250.00 please e-mail if interested. nick -- nicksanvil at aol.com - Tuesday, 08/24/99 05:25:27 GMT does anyone know a cheap and easy way to make a bellows, just a simple one. If not, does anyone know of a place that I could possibly get one for a relitively low price. Thank You scotsman -- albagobragh99 at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 08/25/99 23:20:51 GMT scotsman, re: bellows Well I don't have plans, but the ones I use at Ft. Vacouver are fairly simple. 3 pieces of 3/4 or 1 inch plywood (cut into the 'bellows' tear drop shape)about 4.5 foot by 3 foot, also cut a hole(square is what we have) in two of them about 18 inches from edge (wide end) enough leather(or perhaps nauga-hide)to make the bags between the 3 boards. At the narrow end you need to have an air out let only from upper chamber. The two boards with holes are the lower and middle chamber. Fashion a valve from wood and leather that rests on the top(inside) of the holes. So that when you pull on bellows handle the lower board goes up( valve closes) pushing air thru middle board(valve opens) raising upper board. The weight of upper board forces air to go thru nozzle. Sorry this was so long, but I hope it helps. Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Thursday, 08/26/99 06:40:06 GMT If anybody is interested, stop by the Pub this evening about 2130 hrs EST, for THE CONTINUING SAGA OF DIPPY DUCK. See ya there! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 08/27/99 13:02:00 GMT At University of Florida we have money to get a metal shop going but no ideas of a manufacturer to buy some simple things for basic blacksmithing. For example we need to buy a fuller. I am a student and am just learning about blacksmithing myself. If someone could give me a few suggesion on some basic things to get this place running and a good source to by them you would be doing me and the art of blacksmithing a huge favor. Thanks -jade jade walker -- jwalker at ufl.edu - Friday, 08/27/99 16:38:47 GMT Jade, Very first step. Go to the links page here and contact Centaur Forge. Ask for their catalog. If I remember correctly, there is a $5.00 fee for the catalog, refundable on first order (not sure about thoath though) At any rate, the catalog is worth the fee, anyway. Centaur can supply almost anything you need. And the catalog is an education in itself. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 08/27/99 16:52:25 GMT I keep seeing referances to blacksmith tools posted to ebay. The question is where on ebay do you find them, I've tried and can only find anticy junk. A. Hamm -- hammer at texoma.com - Tuesday, 08/31/99 01:58:07 GMT Yesterday I got a weird suggestion from my much-loved girlfriend. She wanted me to take up knitting instead of smiting weird huh I got it when she was helping me move my equipment. Due to the frequent thefts and burglaries, 18 new locks this year alone! I have started to tote everything between home and shop. All I leave there is the forge, all 8mm steel/angle iron and larger than the door. A work bench whose legs are 4 3by10” (75 by 250mm) planks driven 3’ (1m) into the ground (kind of hard to move in one piece) with a cheap 5” (125mm) wise mounted on it. I won’t give a full list but the general idea. The equipment consists of: Some hammers, only ;) 10-12different depending on various factors in weights from 2oz- 4# (50g-2kg) (out of them 2 are clear favourites one to be retired soon:-( ), a drill brace and drills from 1.5-12mm (~1/16-1/2”), some taps and dies for treads 4-12mm, a few tongs (8-10), 6-7 files, kerosene blowtorch, 2 twisting wrenches (the larger one 30” long),2 tinsnips, a bench shear (6mm capacity) ,2 16”(400mm)C clamps,2 10” (250mm)wise grips, 12# (6kg) sledgehammer, set hammer, flattie, swages, assorted chisels about12-15 different, ~100# (52kg) anvil with basic anvil tools (hardy, hold-down, bending fork, veining tools, beak, swages, fullers…) sadly I have had my swage block stolen:-( . And assorted small stuff all in their places in the bike cart. I almost forgot the fan, a 1-hp petrol engine and a 10”fan in a rather simple set-up replacing my bellows (it is outside the shop so it is no fire hazard) We put it all in the bike cart and haul it home (its only a few miles between home and shop) Do you understand what she means??? ;-) lol OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Tuesday, 08/31/99 11:02:57 GMT I'm selling my entire collection of antique forges, anvils, and blacksmithing tools by auction October 2-3. I also have a big selection of early woodworking and metalshop tools. Email for the complete list. Thanks. Terry Terry Rilkoff -- rilkoff at sunshinecable.com - Wednesday, 09/01/99 02:16:20 GMT Just got back from a 9 day driveabout. Wasn't looking for B.S. tools, but saw an Armitage anvil with the horn broken off at an antique shop in Bristol, Va. ( phone # 540 466 6895 ) if anyone is interested. It would have been about 125 lbs before the horn was lost. grandpa -- darylmeier at aol.com - Wednesday, 09/01/99 02:30:17 GMT OErjan, I know know what you mean. I have been given it some thought about collecting feather pillows. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Wednesday, 09/01/99 04:02:15 GMT OErjan: I keep threatening to take up stamp collecting. It seems so quiet and sedentary. I joke with my friends that all of my hobbies are hot, heavy, dirty and dangerous. I once contemplated glass blowing, but after some study discovered that it was hot, heavy, dirty, dangerous and FRAGILE! I just couldn't handle the fragile part. Is there any chance of moving the forge closer to your home? I just visited a friend, Eric Thing, while I was working out in Tucson last week. He's put together a very nice shop in what used to be his back porch, and the quality of the armor he's making is excellent. (Next time I'm out there I'll get some pictures of his jigs, stakes and set-ups.) His biggest problem is sound control with his neighbors, and he's using mostly gas for fuel to avoid upsetting them with the fragrant smoke of a coal forge too often. If you're in an apartment building, is there another structure nearby? Not that bicycling all your gear back and forth isn't healthy and builds endurance, but it must be dificult in the winter. I'd suggest fortifying the forge, but, by your previous posts, you seem to have the most persistant bunch of vandals since the Vandals. Look around, there might be someplace closer and/or more secure. Terry: Where are you located? Ohio? California? New Zealand? Great Britain? St. Mary's County, Maryland? (Needless to say, my fondest hope.) Cloudy and cool on the banks of the Potomac. Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov Go Viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Wednesday, 09/01/99 12:20:12 GMT Atli: I would like a Forge closer but it is not possible I'm afraid (legal considerations) :-(. on the other hand soon I will have 100# less, as I will have a 450# anvil in my shop It will be very firmly attached by 12 1,5’long ¾” diameter heat treated spring steel spikes with lots of barbs (to grip better) to a 3’ high (sunk in the floor and concrete poured around) by 2’diameter hard-wood stump that would make it rather permanent ( I hope). And believe me 100# is a lot when moved by muscle power. Good smithing to you all:-) OErjan -- Pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 09/01/99 13:28:26 GMT Jade: I responded to you via e-mail using the e-mail address in your posting (jwalker at ufl.edu) but got e-mail back from a Jim Walker. I had sent you a list of needed tools and sources. Phil -- rosche at dilbert.scra.org - Thursday, 09/02/99 13:40:45 GMT I'll be at the ScanFest in northern New Jersey this Sunday with the faering boat. No smithing, just viking around. Check out the event at www.ScanFest.org . Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Friday, 09/03/99 19:16:58 GMT Are there any summer courses in blacksmithing? Glen Unwin -- g_unwin at hotmail.com - Saturday, 09/04/99 00:06:39 GMT hi, a friend here has a patent pending,1902 triphammer,made by Champion Blower & Foundry Co. and he'd like to find out a bit about it. How big a motor for a 20lb hammer, etc.... dr_d -- dan_m at efn.org - Saturday, 09/04/99 00:19:21 GMT dr_d, As far as I know Champion didn't make a 20Lb. hammer. The smallest hammer they make was a 30Lber. It ran on a 1hp motor. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Saturday, 09/04/99 04:50:44 GMT Hello, I've just started to take blacksmithng workshops whenever I can. I've been collecting tools and books on the subject for years. Does anybody know where I can find a copy of "Blacksmith and Farrier Tools at the Shelburne Museum" ? Thank You, John Nash John Nash -- Trkrjnash at aol.com - Saturday, 09/04/99 20:24:07 GMT To whoever sent the reply to my question about the Shelburne Tool book, I lost the server as I was getting your reply and it's now lost. Could you please resend it ? Thanks. John Nash -- Trkrjnash at aol.com - Saturday, 09/04/99 22:05:13 GMT I am a fledgling smith taking the COSIRA course at the blacksmith shop in Coloma CA. It is at the Gold Discovery State Park. For my home shop I have purchased a Phoenix Forge with a Champion #1 Blower as part of of the forge. It is large and in excellent shape but I need some assistance on positioning the leather belt that drives the flywheel and history. I thank anyone that can offer me information or direction. Dennis (Stoneyoaks) Dennis -- dcliford at jps - Saturday, 09/04/99 23:35:33 GMT I am a fledgling smith taking the COSIRA course at the blacksmith shop in Coloma CA. It is at the Gold Discovery State Park. For my home shop I have purchased a Phoenix Forge with a Champion #1 Blower as part of of the forge. It is large and in excellent shape but I need some assistance on positioning the leather belt that drives the flywheel and history. I thank anyone that can offer me information or direction. Dennis (Stoneyoaks) Dennis -- dcliford at jps - Saturday, 09/04/99 23:36:14 GMT Anybody replying to my previous message may note that I left part of my address off. Sorry about that. Stoneyoaks Dennis -- dcliford at jps.net - Saturday, 09/04/99 23:39:45 GMT Everybody: This is my fledgling post -- I've been lurking on a few blacksmithing sites for weeks, and figure I should speak up at least once. Atli: Just saw your post of 9/1 regarding my shop -- thanks for the kind words. Of course, at about 280 sq ft, my shop is a hobby shop, not fit for production (at least not in its present layout). It's true that I'm a great believer in gas forges now; haven't used coal in months. Still working on the noise control, but I have to admit only one neighbor has complained in three years, and he's the neighborhood curmudgeon (dislikes everybody). Just took delivery of a new Beverly B-3 shear; been saving up for it for months. Awesome device. Cut out a 22" diameter blank in cold-rolled 12ga steel to make a bascinet, a pointy medieval helmet; spent 2.5 hours bashing it into a shallow bowl. Now for the raising! Finally drying out in Tucson, AZ (6" of rain in eight weeks this summer!) Eric Thing -- plburton at goodnet.com - Sunday, 09/05/99 02:36:12 GMT I have a Old Drill press made by Canadain Blower & Forge Co Ltd in Kitchner Ontario Canada. The number of the drill press is 614. The arm that pushes the drill down into the stock to be drilled has the end broken off that rests on one of the drive gears. My question does anybody out there have a picture of this press so I can replace the arm. I do shows at the various farmers markets and fall fairs, I would like to use this drill. I picked it up this summer at a antique dealer . This one can be belt driven or turned by hand. Thanks... Barney the Blacksmith from North Bay Ontario Canada Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Sunday, 09/05/99 20:12:00 GMT A friend of mine has some tools for sale. He is not on the net and asked me to post them for him. He has a 250# Little Giant trip-hammer, a # 10 Edwards shear, a 350lb. anvil, a heavy floor mount pedestal grinder made to run off a flat belt drive and about 60 ft. of overhead line shafting with pulleys. You can call him at 785-945-3633. Or E-Mail me. Steve C. -- gsculver at grasshoppernet.com - Monday, 09/06/99 01:40:21 GMT Looking for info on a hammer with the names Always & Onions( I think ) I'm 5'9" and I have to look up to see the top. I am told it is a 500 pounder. Good condition, no motor, any Idea on the value? tim -- ifindit at hotmail.com - Wednesday, 09/08/99 03:47:14 GMT Tim, I have heard of Aldays & Onions. They were or are an English made hammer. That's all I can tell you, I have never seen one. Is the hammer steam, electro-pneumatic of mechanical? Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Thursday, 09/09/99 01:16:25 GMT We are new to this page. We are looking for a portable propane gas forge that we can forge knife and sword blades, and hot enough to weld metals. Any help would be most welcome! Robert Groomes -- groomes at smart-net - Thursday, 09/09/99 20:56:40 GMT Robert, Go the the Links page and click on Centaur Forge. Call the 800 number and ask for their catalog. Check the gas forges section. You will probably want the NC Whisper Daddy if you are going to do swords. You can also go to the Ron Riel page (from the links page) and see plans for building your own from scratch. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 09/10/99 00:47:56 GMT Robert, I failed to mention that you can also go to the top of the page and click on the ad for Steve Kayne and Son. They carry the NC series of gas forges as well. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 09/10/99 00:49:48 GMT 350# Trenton Blacksmith's Anvil, like new,freshened with clean square edges. This Anvil was made in the early 40's and has an all steel face and horn from the waist to the top. Excellent Anvil for everyday use. Ship by rail to the closet railhead or you provide shipping. Mike Pick -- mikepick at uswest.net - Friday, 09/10/99 13:28:55 GMT Thanks for the information, Paw Paw, I am new to all of this...I am a fine jeweler by trade and just getting into making handles,etc. in sterling with stones inlayed, etc. and thought I'd like to learn to make the blades also ( my grandfather was a smithy!) All the info rmation is MOST appreciated!!!!! Robert Groomes -- groomes at smart - Saturday, 09/11/99 20:26:43 GMT Does anybody know what a hammer symbol on the back of a solid brass plate means Tampgard -- Tampgard at prodigy.net - Monday, 09/13/99 00:05:50 GMT Does anybody know what a hammer symbol on the back of a solid brass plate means Tampgard -- Tampgard at prodigy.net - Monday, 09/13/99 00:06:11 GMT Robert, I am an ABS Journeyman Bladesmith. I build propane forges for knifemakers. They are made of a castable refractory with a ceramic wool overwrap. They have a 5" diameter by 12" long heat chamber and are designed to be opened on both ends so they can be stacked together to make a longer chamber for swordsmiths. I designed them mainly for welding damascus. The Texarkana College bladesmithing school has two of them in use. I sell them complete with the forge body, burner, blower and regulator. I can also supply a stand for them, but most folks build their own. I designed them as economically as possible to keep the price down. These are not my main business and I don't need to make a lot of money on them. I just like to help fellow smiths out by suppying inexpensive forges. If you would like a price quote or more information, you may E-Mail me. Steve Culver -- gsculver at grasshoppernet.com - Monday, 09/13/99 02:35:59 GMT Robert, There are several books written by grandpa Daryl Mier. about bladesmithing. I cannot reccomend them highly enough. Grandpa shares the secrets, tips, and tricks freely that have taken him years to learn. His books are available from Centaur Forge, and from Norm Larsen Books. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 09/13/99 03:31:10 GMT Paw Paw what is the titles of the books writen by daryl?? I'd like to look them up. kid -- n/a - Tuesday, 09/14/99 01:15:51 GMT Paw Paw Wilson:what is the titles of the books writen by granpa. I will need those titles as well as ISBN to order them here in Sweden Thanks OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Tuesday, 09/14/99 09:12:27 GMT Kid & OErjan, DUH! When a book reviewer mixes up authors, you know that the CRS is getting really bad! I don't think Grandpa has written any books. Dr. Jim Hrisoulas has, and is currently writing a new one. If I remember correctly (and I wouldn't bet on it) Bill Moran wrote "The Complete Bladesmith" I'll see what I can find in the way of titles and ISBN's for both of you. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 09/15/99 00:53:53 GMT Well, if Grandpa hasn't written a book, he should. Probably too busy making beautiful blades! ;-) Battening down for foul weather, which could "come up the Atlantic Coast like a 'weed whacker'." Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov We are back in the water again, just in time for hurricane season: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE) Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Wednesday, 09/15/99 13:45:38 GMT I am looking for ANY information for scholarships for blacksmith's looking to go to school. I am about to go to school but due to my limited funds I am almost unable to go to the school of my choice. Please send/post any info on blacksmith/metalsmith/metalurgy scholarships. Thamk You Scotsman scotsman -- albagobragh99 at yahoo.com - Thursday, 09/16/99 15:39:26 GMT hello,I recently did some trading and got a 155# peter wright anvil that looks to be in pretty good shape" I don't know anything about anvils"and a champion model 400 whirlwind blast forge and model 400 handcrank blower on tripod. I'm not interested in selling just interested in knowing the value of what i"ve got, I have been playing around with it in the back yard and find it really interesting now i"m a wannabe blacksmith. Thanks in advance for any information. Sammy Abbott,New Castle,va sammy abbott -- sabbott at swva.net - Monday, 09/20/99 02:09:09 GMT I have made inquiries before and no one has replied. I would like to know if anyone has information on an old railroad forge with Phoenix cast on it. It has a flywheel driven Champion #1 blower. I am looking for a picture of how the belts were attached. Please reply to e-mail address. Thank you for yopur kind assistance. Stoney Stoneyoaks Forge -- dcliford at jps.net - Tuesday, 09/21/99 03:11:08 GMT Forge Trailer: After last year's discussion on forge trailers, I decided to go ahead and build my own. I'm a bit older than dirt, so that pulling the anvil on and off for storage seemed a bit of a pain. My solution was to start with a flatbed (old hay trailer) and build the entire shop on the trailer. To keep from hammering on an anvil supported on trailer springs, I have a rather unique system to brace the stump (and whole back of the trailer) onto the ground. I've used it about 4 times this summer, adding things each time. I have some preliminary photos (a little too dark, but you can see the overall impression) on my website. Go to "http://skunk-hollow.homepage.com" and have a look. Site is barely under construction, but will have more later. Morgan Hall -- morganh at aracnet.com - Friday, 09/24/99 16:22:19 GMT Morgan, VERY nice job! I went to your site, out of curiosity, stayed for a good while out of admiration! I think I'd have tried to figure a way to raise and lower the roof, to make an easier travel profile, but that's still very nice work. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 09/24/99 22:57:36 GMT Here's a temperature chart that some of you might find usefull. Air Temperatures: 60 degrees - Californians put on their mink coats. 50 degrees - Miami residents turn on the heat. Californians shiver uncontrollably, 45 degrees - Vermont residents go to outdoor concert. Californians weep pitifully. 40 degrees - You can see your breath, Californians disappear, Wisconsinite go swimming. 35 degrees - Italians cars don't start. 32 degrees - Water freezes. 30 degrees - You plan your vacation in Australia. 25 degrees - Ohio water freezes, Wisconsinite eat ice cream, Canadians go swimming. 20 degrees - Politicians begin to talk about the homeless, New York City water freezes, Miami residents plan vacation farther south. 15 degrees - French cars don't start, cat insists on sleeping in your bed with you. 10 degrees - You need jumper cables to get the car going. 5 degrees - British cars don't start. 0 degrees - Alaskans put on T-shirts, American cars don't start. -10 degrees - German cars don't start, eyes freeze shut when you step outside. -15 degrees - You can cut your breath and use it to build an igloo, Arkansasians stick tongue on metal objects, Miami residents cease to exist. -20 degrees - Cat insists on sleeping in pajamas with you, politicians actually do something about the homeless Wisconsinite shovel snow off roof, Japanese cars don't start. -25 degrees - Too cold to think, you need jumper cables to get the driver going. -30 degrees - You plan a two week hot bath, Swedish cars don't start. -40 degrees -Wisconsinite button top button, Canadians put on sweater, your car helps you plan your trip South. -50 degrees - Congressional hot air freezes, Alaskans close the bathroom window. -80 degrees - Polar bears move South, Green Bay Packer (and Buffalo Bills) fans order hot cocoa at the game. -90 degrees - Lawyers put their hands in their own pockets. -100 degrees- Hell freezes over and Democrats finally admit Clinton is a liar. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 09/26/99 01:03:37 GMT I havebiult a small forge,made great steaks! Have to find coal for the metal work. No hurry ,winter will be a good time to play with the fire. I work on knives. I like the work. Greetings to all. Arthur VanNostrand Vannostrand -- arthur at hit.net - Sunday, 09/26/99 05:46:03 GMT The third annual blacksmithing conference of the Saltfork Craftsmen is scheduled for October 2& 3, 1999. The place to be is Guthrie, OK, at the Southwest Ironworks, 302 W. College Ave., Mike Boone and Peter Ross are the featured demonstrators. For more info contact Bill Davis 580 549 6824 or davis at sonetcom.com I am going from the Tulsa area if anyone would like to ride along. Mike Sweany -- sweanym1 at juno.com - Sunday, 09/26/99 18:10:25 GMT I just acquired a 80 ton mecanical press. It has a 1 3/4 " throw. I am needing ideas for uses, for this monster. Thankx Mark Damman -- ddamman at mail.holton.k12.ks.us - Monday, 09/27/99 16:25:11 GMT Mark, What kind of press is it? Different presses have different uses. Standard flywheel driven punch presses are good for all kinds of things but if you overload them, kerPlow! No more press. Punch presses are good for punching holes, shearing or nibbling and bending. In every case the loads must be known before putting work in the press. If you try to stall that flywheel something always breaks. "Fly" presses (see the power hammer page) are designed to be stalled with every stroke and are best for high force coining and closed die forgeing. Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 09/29/99 01:54:23 GMT looking for plans on building a hydralic arbor press thanks mueller -- mmueller at teleparts.com - Wednesday, 09/29/99 17:11:55 GMT All, Leaving town tomorrow morning, going to Norris, Tn, Museum of Appalachia. Will be pounding iron there from Wensday the 6th through Sunday the 11th. If you're in the area, stop by and intoduce yourself, I'll be wearing Union Army Blue! (grin) Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 10/04/99 02:11:28 GMT All, I hadn't planned to do anything but check mail this morning, but I had several emails asking about what I'm doing this week, so decided to post the following. Norris, Tn is 16 miles north of Knoxville at exit 122 off of I75. Norris is the home of the Museum of Appalachia. Their "Tennessee Fall Homecoming", held every October has been voted one of the top 20 craft shows in the South East for the last 10 years. In addition to all the craftsmen, they will have 7 stages of mountain music. I did NOT say country music, I said mountain music, though of course there IS a lot of crossover. As much fun as the staged music is, I personally enjoy the strolling musicians and groups that get together just to "jam" as much if not more. They only invite two blacksmiths per year to demonstrate, so I feel honored to be going up for my 8th consecutive year. Jim Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 10/04/99 12:42:34 GMT I need help finding plans to fabricate a wood stove. Any help would be appreciated. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Monday, 10/04/99 13:58:07 GMT hello all im looking for other smiths the sanjose area and trying to find a good deal on a small gas forge so drop me a line if you know of eather thanks D dorian r -- perish at pacbell.net - Tuesday, 10/05/99 07:37:36 GMT You can make a small gas forge very cheep. I needed a quick and dirty forge to make some u-nails to hold down a new anvil. I had a piece of pipe about 12"dia and 16" long. I threw in some kaowool scraps and used some fire bricks to half block off the ends and pointed a "weed burner" (purchased at Harbour Freight) in the back end for heat. It got hot enough to forge with but not weld. Total cost. about $25 Just keep the burner in clear air, out of the heat. I clamped mine at about a 45 deg angle down and forward into the forge. It worked so well I am planing to cut a hole in the side of the pipe for the burner so it can blow straight into the forge and make the stand and brick ends more permenant and add a fire shelf bottom. It should be a good forge. BenThar -- benthar at pacbell.net - Tuesday, 10/05/99 13:33:08 GMT You can make a small gas forge very cheep. I needed a quick and dirty forge to make some u-nails to hold down a new anvil. I had a piece of pipe about 12"dia and 16" long. I threw in some kaowool scraps and used some fire bricks to half block off the ends and pointed a "weed burner" (purchased at Harbour Freight) in the back end for heat. It got hot enough to forge with but not weld. Total cost. about $25 Just keep the burner in clear air, out of the heat. I clamped mine at about a 45 deg angle down and forward into the forge. It worked so well I am planing to cut a hole in the side of the pipe for the burner so it can blow straight into the forge and make the stand and brick ends more permenant and add a fire shelf bottom. It should be a good forge. BenThar -- benthar at pacbell.net - Tuesday, 10/05/99 13:33:44 GMT This isn´t a forum for car-owners,I know, but since I see a lot of photos of heavy-duty trucks from whenever there´s a gathering of American blacksmiths I thought I could as well ask you guys: My coal and junk hauler is a -77 Jeep Cherokee, it says so in the papers, but it has four doors, and I´m told it should be a Wagoneer. Are there any four-door Cherokee´s? Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Tuesday, 10/05/99 19:44:53 GMT hello, I am looking for a few items for a holiday gift for my husband. He has been itching for a gas powered forge. Nothing to fancy. what I need help with is locating the parts so that he can put it together. We participate in midevil reenactment and he would like to manufacture candle holders eating equipment, etc. I also need any information on used anvils and what type I should get. If anyone would know where I might purchase these items either online or in Portland Oregon. I would appreciate the info. thanks flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Wednesday, 10/06/99 21:00:59 GMT hello, I am looking for a few items for a holiday gift for my husband. He has been itching for a gas powered forge. Nothing to fancy. what I need help with is locating the parts so that he can put it together. We participate in midievil reenactment and he would like to manufacture candle holders eating equipment, etc. I also need any information on used anvils and what type I should get. If anyone would know where I might purchase these items either online or in Portland Oregon. I would appreciate the info. thanks flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Wednesday, 10/06/99 21:33:49 GMT Bruce, whats the wood stove going to be used for? Home, shop? How much space are you going to heat? Pete Pete - Wednesday, 10/06/99 23:50:25 GMT I agree with Pete,How large an area are you trying to heat?? what kind of design considerations? Any limiting factors like: with, length, height, should it be portable? I have some tree different “designs” from a small (320mm long 300mm high 200mm wide) to a verry large one (852 high by 550 in diameter) with heat accumulator. They are all rather cheap to make and they work. I have no plans on my PC but I can make some if you want. OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Thursday, 10/07/99 13:31:24 GMT Olle, I think, but i'm not sure, that a grand Cherokee is a 4-door. like i said, i'm not sure..... hope it helps. idjut - Thursday, 10/07/99 23:51:01 GMT I am a jewelers apprentice in upstate NY. Recently, we received a request for a silver dagger. Neither I nor my employer have any bladesmithing knowledge or experience. Where do we start? Please e-mail if you can help. Thank you!- Stacey B Stacey B -- chs at frontiernet.net - Friday, 10/08/99 15:09:41 GMT I would like to extend a thank-you to all who emailed me and helped with my delema. I wasn't sure that it would be possible to gather info and materials for a forge. I have now come to share the passion my partner feels for smithing. I do have one more favor to ask if I may.....I would like to direct my husband to a class. I have already written down the books sugested at this GREAT site. I think he would be very interested in attending a basic class. Any suggestions would be wonderful. thank-you all. flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Friday, 10/08/99 20:45:10 GMT Hello out there Roger - Saturday, 10/09/99 00:30:55 GMT Pete and OErjan, The wood stove palns are not for me. I'm trying to help a freind find plans. If it was me I wood buy a wood stove instead or building one. I don't have many details about what he wants. He just told me something to heat a small cabin. Anything at this point would be a help. The guy who's looking for the plan is starting to get on my nerves with his nagging. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Sunday, 10/10/99 00:52:01 GMT I’ll try to get the plans for the smaller (and simpler) wood stove done by the middle of the week. With the forge running it is rarely used wonder why ;-). OK ok I admit using it when it’s below -15–20*C, OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Sunday, 10/10/99 11:04:34 GMT OErjan, Thanks for your help. Please don't put yourself to alot of trouble. Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Monday, 10/11/99 00:27:55 GMT hi i am 17 and just stated black smithing any 1 who has any informaition that could help me get stated and any tips for working the metal.I just got an anvil for $30 in is 115lbs. my next project is making the forge this could be hard any tips really any thing please help. Where can I get a blower for my forge. Thanx scott -- scottgresh at hotmail.com - Tuesday, 10/12/99 23:14:15 GMT I am sad to say that the p+lans will be late (the puter crashed) they will be along by friday though. OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 10/13/99 15:55:35 GMT Nashville: I'll be in Nashville, TN from Sunday, 10/17 'til Saturday, 10/23, somewhere out near the airport. I don't expect to have a lot of free time (Appraisal Institute training course, heavy hitting of books!) but if we have any smiths in that neck of the woods, I wouldn't mind dropping by for a bit some weeknight (or Saturday afternoon, if the morning exam goes well) and check out the shop. Sunny, and downright pleasant, on the banks of the Potomac. Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov Go Viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE) cc: asylum at us.HSAnet.net Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Wednesday, 10/13/99 19:53:36 GMT Hey all, *grin* sorry about the fact that I asked for good teachers without giving my location. I did state it in my first post but I need a good teacher in Portland Oregon. For my better half. He has wanted a forge for the longest time and if all goes well this years scavenger hunt for the gifts will be a great kodak moment. Thanks to all that have helped so far. As so as he gets his gift I will turn him on to this great site <:) flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Thursday, 10/14/99 04:43:16 GMT A few weeks ago I saw a great demo by Tom Latane at SOFA's Quad States Roundup. I was fascinated to see that he uses lump charcoal instead of coal. I would like to try this too but have no supplier. I live in the Cincinnati (OH) area -- does anybody know somewhere anywhere near here where I can get lump charcoal? Thanks! Tom Kopp, Oxford, Ohio tom kopp -- kopptw at muohio.edu - Friday, 10/15/99 17:12:58 GMT Flora, You might go to Fort Vancouver in Washington. They have a working shop and when I visited there I found some very helpful and friendly people. I'm sure they could help you find someone to help your husband get started. The most important thing to making progress is practice though. The ideal gift would also include a couple dozen coupons redeemable for getting out of all chores for an afternoon to use the new toys. Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Friday, 10/15/99 17:42:55 GMT hey, I have a Novelty Iron Works Power Hammer for sale, how can I sell here on Anvilfire? Ryan Ryan Wasson -- krw996s at mail.smsu.edu - Friday, 10/15/99 18:40:41 GMT Hello, My brother Gary Prazen told me about you and your page. You have a nice website. I thought that you might like to check out mine. It is www.prazen.com . I also do a lot of different kinds of metal sculpture, railings, and furniture. Check it out if you get a chance. Best regards, Richard Prazen Richard Prazen -- richardprazen at mailcity.com - Saturday, 10/16/99 03:02:23 GMT Would like to know proper way of installing eye hole hoes, mattocks, & picks on wooden handles. Larry Maddox -- johngalt at wfeca.net - Sunday, 10/17/99 00:27:26 GMT Philippe, You have a great idea about "the get out of doing chores" coupons. I have to admit though that I have alteriour motives for buying him the forge. It means less of the sports chanel *big grin only other sports widowers would understand*. Anyway thanks to all the help. I'll keep everyone posted <:) flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Tuesday, 10/19/99 01:40:34 GMT flora, Did you ever get ahold of Morgan? Also if you have not looked at Ron Reil's webpage you should. He has a very easy to build burner design on it. And for a forge shell I have a couple of freon tanks. One of them would make a good first forge. BTW I live in Hillsboro, which is not too far from Portrland. Ralph Douglass -- ralphd at jps.net - Tuesday, 10/19/99 14:31:14 GMT Finnaly glad to find a n informative web site o our proffession Hat Creek Forge -- hatcreek_forge at yahoo.com - Tuesday, 10/19/99 21:46:20 GMT An annoucement! Anvilfire will soon have two new pages. a Product review page and a Rogues Gallery. The Rogues Gallery will consist of pictures of the Anvilfire regulars, including pictures of any one that demonstrates in costume. Here's your chance for your picture to be seen all over the world! (grin) Send scanned photos and permission to use them to: guru at anvilfire.com THANKS! Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 10/20/99 03:31:42 GMT no I haven't gotten ahold of morgan yet. thank-you for the info Ralph. I really need someone who knows the area to take me to get the materials. The last time i went driving in down town Portland, I ended up in Washington!!!! I still haven't lived that one down :) I am still looking for a used but in good shape anvil about 100 to 160lbs. If anyone has one please email me. flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Wednesday, 10/20/99 05:07:51 GMT HELP!!! i need a blower!! if anyone has on that they don't need anymore, please let me know. Or if you have an old vacuum that you don't want let me know! Pleeeassse, my hairdryers keep burning out! Thank you scotsman :):) scotsman -- albagobragh99 at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 10/20/99 22:30:48 GMT Greetings, I'm a beginning blacksmith who got interested by working at a Living History museum in up-state New York. I'm now living in Northerna California and am interested in purchasing a old anvil and forge. I guess I'm curious on what is the best way to locate the equipment and how much is reasonable to spend? I would appreciate any help. Thanks....Buck Buck Highfiield -- cmhighfield at hotmail.com - Friday, 10/22/99 22:45:22 GMT I have a question concerning the value of an old hand forge. It is in working condition & good shape. The markings are Challenge Chicago Heights, ILL FCCO. I would appreciate any information concerning the manufacturer and what the value might be. Thanks for your help. Bill Lincoln -- whislima at aol.com - Saturday, 10/23/99 15:41:04 GMT anybody home? Mike in Milwaukee -- GHS at execpc.com - Saturday, 10/23/99 21:37:01 GMT I am looking for Craig Schaefer. Craig you had an anvil for sale. I can't seem to get through on your email. thanks :) flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Sunday, 10/24/99 19:53:33 GMT This was posted on theforge e-mail group. To All: Francis Whitaker died Saturday 10:00 pm cst. Tenative memorial at Colorado Rocky Mountain School , Carbondale, CO tuesday Oct 26 at 3:00 pm. He will be missed by all of us who knew him. > Lou Mueller Go with God, Francis. Rob Fertner -- AFERTNER at kscable.com - Sunday, 10/24/99 22:44:27 GMT This was posted on theforge e-mail group. To All: Francis Whitaker died Saturday 10:00 pm cst. Tenative memorial at Colorado Rocky Mountain School , Carbondale, CO tuesday Oct 26 at 3:00 pm. He will be missed by all of us who knew him. > Lou Mueller Go with God, Francis. Rob Fertner -- AFERTNER at kscable.com - Sunday, 10/24/99 22:45:08 GMT All: Francis Whitaker died Saturday 10:00 pm cst. Tenative memorial at Colorado Rocky Mountain School , Carbondale, CO tuesday Oct 26 at 3:00 pm. He will be missed by who knew him. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net/~pawpaw/ - Sunday, 10/24/99 22:48:55 GMT Rob, I should have waited to check the messages before I posted. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 10/24/99 22:51:57 GMT PawPaw,Read your post on going to Norris Tenn. Went there in 91 and was really impressed with the museum. hope you had a safe and prospers trip. Stiffy Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Sunday, 10/24/99 23:18:26 GMT Stiffy, It was a safe trip. But it rained all Friday afternoon, all day Saturday, and into the afternoon on Sunday. And that had a negative impact on sales. But I enjoyed myself, as I always do up there. If the last time you were there was in 91, it's time to go again. John Rice Irwin has added a couple of "new" attractions that you will enjoy. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net/~pawpaw - Monday, 10/25/99 00:17:24 GMT I have two old forge blowers. One of them is in the antique catagory( stands on bent pipe legs and the blower is about workbench high. The other one is a later model ( I think this was used as an air exchanger in the bomb shelters, back in the 50's Is there any interest from any of you fellow blacksmiths? Thanks for your attention: Jim, Kanona, New York Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Tuesday, 10/26/99 10:55:06 GMT Gee Wiz. I finally figured out how to get into your system. I have another question that some of you folks might be able to help me. I have a melting furnace but I am afraid to use it. The only notation was that I should have a minimum of eight foot ceiling. I want to use this for melting silver. I am a jeweler and have never had to melt loarger loads than a torch could handle. Now I would like to use this furnace. I will really appreciate some safety advise? I think this anvilfire is great! Jim, Finger Lakes Region, New York Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Tuesday, 10/26/99 11:10:56 GMT Jim, The overhead clearance is important and THAT should be non-flamable. The problems of larger crucibles are the same as small ones but scaled up by the cube of the increase in size! First rule is to use proper fitting crucible lifting tongs. These come in sizes to fit each crucible (one size does NOT fit more than one size crucible. Pouring rings (wrong term) are the same except that they must fit hot and cold crucibles. Do not pour using lifting tongs. I always recommend practice runs, removing lid, lifting, transfer, and pouring. This should be as smooth as a ballet. When the crucible is at a red heat EVERYTHING goes wrong. Practice ahead of time. Where are you going to lay down those hot tongs, crucibles ect? Ventilation - Fumes also go up by the cube of the increase in size. Things you can get away with with a torch suddenly require a four to 12 foot opening with an exhaust fan. Personal protection is also a larger issue. A couple grams of molten metal will hurt you, a couple pounds spilled in your shoe will maim you. Spilled metal runs like mecury across tables, floors and inside clothing. Face shield AND saftey glasses, apron and gloves, foundry spats and shoe protectors. You will find that safety equipment is as big an investment as the furnace. Try one of C.W. Ammen's books on casting. He will cover the safety issues much better than I can in this forum. Welcome to anvilfire! OBTW - I answer questions on the guru page. I rarely check here as this is a free-for-all for the piublic to use! Thank Jim Wilson for letting me know your question was here. Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 10/27/99 13:24:29 GMT Jock swears this'll work, so I'll try it. If it doesn't look right, blame him! (grin) REQUIEM FOR A MASTER He wasn't a giant, But he stood tall. He wasn't big, But he made other men small. He was a master, With time for an apprentice. To teach the apprentice, The magic of iron. To show him the beauty, Of red hot steel. He was Francis. At 3:00 PM Mountain Standard Time, All over the world. Anvils began to ring. 94 measured strokes. In Canada, In New Zealand, In California, In Arizona, In Texas, In Oregon, In Virginia, In North Carolina, In South Carolina, In Alabama, And in Florida. In many other places as well. The anvils rang. 94 measured stokes. One for each year of his life. Saying farewell. To a Master. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 10/28/99 03:37:47 GMT At least one anvil rung in Sweden (rather odd hour here). All masters that die are a loss to the world,be it in smithing or anny other craft. A master will leave a hole in the world a hole that is hard to fill. that hole is HIS knowlege, experience and skill lost to us for all time. I have seen some of his work, not in person, but it gives a hint to what he could do(and did) with his knowlege, skill and experience. not every one can put theirs to action and get that kind of results in the end (I wish I could, O how I wish) OErjan out OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Friday, 10/29/99 14:18:07 GMT OErjan, How I wish I had known that you rang in! I'd have included Sweden in the list of countries in the poem, if I had only known! Too late now, durn it! Sorry, I did NOT mean to slight either you OR Sweden. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 10/29/99 18:41:19 GMT OErjan, How I wish I had known that you rang in! I'd have included Sweden in the list of countries in the poem, if I had only known! Too late now, durn it! Sorry, I did NOT mean to slight either you OR Sweden. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 10/29/99 18:40:57 GMT looking for a 200+ hay&budden, Mikght have a custom power hammer to work out trade or possibly some other items. mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Sunday, 10/31/99 03:09:47 GMT Since the anvilfire guru was kind enough to answer my question about safety while working with a smelting furnace and suggesting C.W. Ammen's book on casting. I have searched the Web for this book and none have it. Anyone out there know where I can get a copy of this book? Thanks, Jim, New York Finger Lakes Region Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Wednesday, 11/03/99 10:26:42 GMT Jim, Have you checked Amazon.com? Bibliofind.com? Lindsay Books? Norm Larsen Books? Failing at all of those, list a "want" with bibliofind.com I've been very lucky with that route. Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 11/03/99 13:43:12 GMT To Jim Linzinger Powells bookstore in Portland Or. has 3 different C.W. Ammens casting books in stock. there web site is www.powells.com. search under metal-foundary and forge or by author Ammen. Clint -- bearsden at tdn.com - Wednesday, 11/03/99 19:48:44 GMT To Jim Linzinger Powells bookstore in Portland Or. has 3 different C.W. Ammens casting books in stock. there web site is www.powells.com. search under metal-foundary and forge or by author Ammen. Clint -- bearsden at tdn.com - Wednesday, 11/03/99 19:49:04 GMT is there a demo going on now and if so, how do i get to it. ron - Thursday, 11/04/99 02:51:54 GMT |