Some tools to drool over.  Image (c) 1998 Jock Dempsey WELCOME to the
Virtual Hammer-In!

This page is open to ALL for the purpose of advancing blacksmithing.

This is an archive of posts from April 16 to April 30 on the Hammer-In



Hey Jock glad to see the Hammer-In up and running! I'll pass the word to the rest of the gang. GOOD LUCK, bill
Bill Koeppe <Thrivers1 at AOL>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 02:05:00 (GMT)
Hey BILL!

This thing needs some real debugging but I think I've got it under control. I'll get rid of the extra test messages in the next day or so.
JDD <guru at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 02:12:19 (GMT)
Hi again ......bill
Bill Koeppe <Thrivers1 at AOL>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 02:14:27 (GMT)
A few BUGS yet?......bill
Bill Koeppe <Thrivers1 at AOL>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 02:32:17 (GMT)
Oh, yeah. . . call the exterminator. . .

If you DO NOT see different banners changing at the top of this page your browser does not support Javascript 2.0+

I can fix a lot of problems on this page with Javascript but you would be left out. . . let me know OK.
So what do you think of this format? (sans, reload bugs)

JDD <guru at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998
I like the format so far. Had to think a second about(GMT) cool. This shows up real good on my puter. later....bill
Bill Koeppe <Thrivers1 at AOL>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 02:40:21 (GMT)

How would you feel if anvilfire wrote a "cookie" on your machine that automatically filled in the Name and Email fields on this page automaticaly?

JDD <guru at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 19:46:53 (GMT)
Great work Mr. Dempesy. You have the best page on the net for Blacksmiths! I did what you told me to do and it WORKED.
B.R. Wallace
Bruce R. Wallace <Walmetalwk at aol.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 14:26:27 (GMT)
test hammer mammer hammer clink bang boom. Looks good to me so far.
Rick. You might concider putting post button at the bottom of the form.
Rick <rickyc at >
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 18:33:27 (GMT)
Original script HAD post at bottom. I moved it to make more room. THEN I squeezed more room out of Frame and put menu at bottom AND forgot about POST. Looks like I still have room. Thanks for reminding me! Will do when I get back from errand!
JDD <guru at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 19:46:53 (GMT)
Try again
JDD <test at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 22:22:48 (GMT)
OK Rick! I fixed the Post/Form positions so that they are in the correct TAB order. Everyone FORGET the TAB TAB TAB BS! One tab between each entry box and post.
JDD <guru at anvilfire.com>
- Thursday, April 16, 1998 at 23:02:12 (GMT)
Hey, how bout a shop tour section, people sending in photos of their shops, wierd jigs etc. bye
PeteRavnstudio at aol.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 00:11:19 (GMT)
Wow, How did you slip in here Pete? I've been editing and reloading this xxxxxx script constantly for the last 2 hours!

That's a good idea. Someone else mentioned a shop ideas section. Stuff like hoists, chimneys, ventilation. It came up when I mentioned setting an anchor like a heavy I bolt in the back of you shops floor (before pouring). The anchor would be used to drag heavy equipment in with a come-a-long or the like.
JDD -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 00:17:54 (GMT)
The GMT time/date my server uses is a strange thing to get used to. Its already Friday somewhere Britian.

OK GUYS ITS READY TO TRY!

I've got to get the automatic refresh working but that will have to be on Monday. The wife and I are taking a few days OFF!

Later!

Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 01:20:48 (GMT)


I've edited most of my innane "editing" comments out of this. So now it REALLY is ready to use! If you've just found this page please leave a simple "Hi I found you".

Thanks!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 02:04:09 (GMT)


Jock have a good weekend, bill

Bill Koeppe -- Thrivers1 at AOL - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 02:38:37 (GMT)


Thank's Bill, was that you testing?

OK, Have at it guys!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 02:39:20 (GMT)


Ok Jock lets see if it works now.

Rick -- rickyc at - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 16:02:40 (GMT)


Ok Jock lets see if it works now.

Rick -- rickyc at - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 16:03:08 (GMT)


It's good to be king, just for the weekend :-).

Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Friday, April 17, 1998 at 22:09:25 (GMT)


It's Sat and I'm just checking to see if this runs without Jock....bill

Bill Koeppe -- Thrivers1 at AOL - Saturday, April 18, 1998 at 23:35:47 (GMT)


YES IT WORKS WITHOUT ME!

BULL HAMMER: I thought the KA-## was slick until I saw the Bull run. This is a SLICK machine. It hits hard, soft, clamps and REPEATS. It has a bunch of tricks including a repeating adjustable stroke. The machine I ran was the pre-production prototype. The production machine is much better!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, April 19, 1998 at 01:16:55 (GMT)


Hi Jock,

Just thought I would drop in & wish you well on the hammer-in. Does the guru get a virtual oil can to keep the thing running....:)

Bob -- robert_miller at mindlink.bc.ca - Sunday, April 19, 1998 at 03:08:17 (GMT)


RE: OIL CAN,

That's what I needed! But DO remember to oil all those non-virtual machines daily. No excuse for worn out machinery!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, April 19, 1998 at 03:35:36 (GMT)


We just got back from checking out the ABANA conference site at the UNCA campus in Asheville. Beautiful place. The Williamsburg forge is going to need some hustling on it if its going to be ready. The side draft forge and chimney are done but there's no building. If the little foundation "ditch" indicates the size of the shop someone needs to do some backpeddling. The space is much too small. Doesn't look like there would be enough room for the bellows overhead. Just came from another demonstration forge the previous day that was much too small. Smith couldn't get more than a foot from the fire! Public was also within a foot of the anvil. Not good.

We checked out several motels in Asheville. All the ones within walking or biking distance of the campus are small and old. The nearest new motel is the Best Western Central. Just a couple miles or so down the road, convienient but pricey. Right behind it is the Radison - very pricey. We stayed at the Best Host at the east side of town. Its a 15-20 minute ride, June rates will be $52/night double and breakfast is included. Nice place, a little railroad noise. There were a bunch more new motels at this intersection (first Ashville exit comming from the East).

More later.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, April 19, 1998 at 04:06:33 (GMT)


The JYH East Coast Hammer: Is still planed to be built and delivered to Asheville for the ABANA conference in June. When we start construction we will report on the progress.

At this point the design will still use a shock absorber linkage. Lots of folks have pooh-poohed this idea however there were a number of so called "atomospheric" hammers manufactured from as early as 1854. These were mechanical hammers with an air cylinder linkage to absorb the shock of the blow and compensate for varying height work. These were an attempt to get around the patent of James Nasmyth who invented the steam hammer. Nasmyth's design was so good that hammers are still built to nearly his exact design! According Douglas Freund's Book "Pounding Out The Profits" these hammers were popular in turn of the century American shops. I'll post one of the illustrations of the Hughes Atomospheric hammers along with the JYH drawing. . .Later.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, April 19, 1998 at 21:41:42 (GMT)


Jock, glad to see you up and running on your own site Looks like it should be a good one. Willlookfor you at Ashville. Smokey

Smokey -- smokey at montrose.net - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 00:54:20 (GMT)


Thanks, Smokey. Glad you found anvilfire. Lots more to come!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 02:56:14 (GMT)


Jock: Congradulations!!! Question: What is the brand name and model no. for a REAL body grinder? I have been going through the hardware store models in about 6 months. Best Regards.

grandpa -- darylmeier at usa.net - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 04:10:40 (GMT)


Grandpa,

I've been using the Black and Decker

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 11:10:37 (GMT)


Grandpa,

I've been using the Black and Decker "Wildcat" for years. My first was "loaned" to the family fabrication business for about five years and is still in very good condition. Model number 4078 - 7" 6000 RPM angle grinder. These are a heavy tool. They come with an eye bolt for a counter balance. I've never used one but if I were doing production grinding at one bench I would rig one. If you are going to use sanding disks they make a lower RPM model. This one shreds sanding disks. NOTE: B&D also makes grinders for "home" use which cost a half or a third but do not last a tenth as long!

My first angle grinder was from the place "where America shops". It was labled "Professional". I wore out three without wearing out the first wheel! My B&D has worn out cases of wheels! I'll check to see if they still make this model.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 11:11:46 (GMT)


Jock, I found you. Dropped a one inch dia steel ball onto your page from 18" and it bounced right back into my hand. Any way I can go full page on the posts? I'm a speed reader and it drives me nuts going page down:REFOCUS,page down:REFOCUS!!! my brain can seriously outpace these tired old eyes. Had to print the whole deal to make sense out of it.

Robert Bastow -- nil_carborundum at hotmail.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 14:20:57 (GMT)


I'm forgetting my manners Jock; didn't mean to b***h on my first post(that comes later)8^). Congratulations on getting this sucker off the ground. Reach over your shoulder and give yourself a BIG PAT on the back. Looking forward to learning and sharing much and making many more new friends on this 'site. OBTW, when can I tell the story about how I bust the 36"swing lathe in half?
Best to you and yours, Robert.

Robert Bastow -- Nil_carborundum at Hotmail.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 14:30:59 (GMT)


HI Robert! You can go 85% on the posts! Just click on the divider between the posts and the entry form and drag it down! The last 15% is for my sponsors without whom I will not be able to provide all these nifty services!

This is the first time I've looked at THIS part of anvilfire in high res (800x600). I'll see if I can find a why to dynamicly resize the input box to take advantage of the extra pixels!

I'm also trying something new with the referesh. I'm using a verboten no-cache command in the posting document. Should refresh with a click on "Refresh" at the bottom of the page now. This IS a TEST!

Other than interface fixes the data page is as ready as its ever going to get! Have at it Robert!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 14:53:43 (GMT)


Hey! That worked! Now all I need is a Java script to do two things at once when you click "return to form..."

JDD -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 14:56:33 (GMT)


Don't mean to hog all the airtime on this page BUT I'M SO EXCITED!!
Have a question; I asked it last night on theForge and got a great response but would like to reach out to a larger audience?(database?)
I married a southern lady from Birmingham AL last year and it occurs to me that a real neat Christmas present for her mom would be a STEEL MAGNOLIA!! ( She and her daughter[my wife]are the epitome of that fine breed) I have downloaded Flemlin's fine Tutorial on making Iron Roses and have lots of pictures from Texas A&M and U of Wisconsin Botany files. Living examples will soon abound in this part of the world and I know I will need to STUDY and PRACTICE between now and Christmas. This is my first venture into ART metalwork. I'm looking for suggestions on material thickness to stat with. The magnolia is a robust blossom some 8" in dia and my initial feeling is to start with 1/8" material and forge the h*ll out of it rather than crinkling up a bit of light gauge (don't you hate how many professional writers spell that as GUAGE?) material. I will try a multi point graver to tool in the petal striations and enhance these with a REALLY stiff, sharpened wire brush. (Don Fogg does wonderful things in surface texture with wire brushes and simple dies) I'd welcome suggestions on texture and finish (brass wire brush on the stamens,copper washes,rust browning on leaves etc.)
Thankyou all (Y'all?) Robert.

Robert Bastow -- nil_carborundum at hotmail.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:03:02 (GMT)


Hand hammering large flat pieces gives me a fit. I would think 16ga or 14ga would be plenty heavy for an indoor decorative piece. On a fence or gate I would say 1/8" would be fine (weather for years!).

I guess it doesn't matter what color a magnolia is. A STEEL magnolia should be brushed and lacquered. Some temper colors would also be appropriate so the "steel" theme.

I see a need a "goto bottom" command at least on "Refresh"

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:03:02 (GMT)


Hi just found you on the forge. This looks great.
Tony Holliday
Magnolia forge and ironworks
Grandbay, Al

Tont Holliday -- tonyholliday at msn.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:41:38 (GMT)


Thanks Jock, sorry about double post. THIS IS A TEST 8^) See if I can get it right

Robert Bastow -- nil_carborundum at hotmail.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:43:29 (GMT)


Welcome Tony!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:48:35 (GMT)


Robert, Tony at "Magnolia" forge sounds like the right guy for your flowery problem.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 15:50:59 (GMT)


Robert, don't worry about the double posts, I'll edit them out at archive time.

I think I've got "Refresh/Last Post" working. Takes two clicks but doesn't require using the browser reload menu. When this becomes fully automatic I'll leave these selections for folks without Java support.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 16:10:07 (GMT)


Jock, CONGRATULATIONS!
I am a novice smith who has been reading all that has been said on this thing for five months. Bookmarked all the b-smith sites I can find, followed all the links,done all the exercises/lessons. Now I can clean up all that "stuff" and put the "guru" back into his rightful place, NO.1.!!
Thanks for the website!

Geoff Gifford -- poohcrnr at primenet.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 16:23:52 (GMT)


Geoff, Thanks for the kind words. I hope anvilfire lives up to your expectations. In the comming months we we be adding tons of content so bear with us! If what you need is not posted please ask. That's what I am here for. In the near future, the "guru" page will be using this format with a few modifications. Until then you can leave messages here OR send e-mail. Thanks Again!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, April 20, 1998 at 16:29:55 (GMT)


Jock, I've got the same B&D grinder and I wouldn't do any heavy duty grinding without it. Being a Welder by trade it has been a very valuable tool

Brian -- snidaere at aol.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 03:27:55 (GMT)


Its great to find a place where a beginner can feel comfortable thanx

John Miller -- bronze1 at gte.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 04:05:21 (GMT)


Jock, made it here! Cool site. Got it bookmarked. Congratulations. Steve

Steve -- jacobson at warwick.net - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 04:17:46 (GMT)


John, Glad you like the site. I try to answer ALL questions no matter how basic OR how technical. In the near future we will have all sorts of basic equipment plans and how-to articles.

Thanks, Steve. Keep comming back. I'm adding things every day.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 04:29:50 (GMT)


Great site Jock, alittle more here everytime I look. I've got a Black and Decker 4070, 5000 rpm, must be the lower speed one you mentioned, I've had it about 15 or 16 years and was used when Igotit.
Good tool.

Don Mersereau -- donfaye at telusplanet.net - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 06:07:59 (GMT)


Hi Jock,
Nice job on the site.
I'll stay tuned...
Stephen

Stephen Bargsten -- SBargsten at aol.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 14:31:14 (GMT)


KAOWOOL: I've had several people ask about possible health hazzards associated with this product. Today I recieved a 20 foot long FAX of Material Safety Data Sheets(MSDS). I will not be able to talk to someone knowledgeable about the possible risks until Friday. Will also post the entire MSDS as a text file elsewhere.

KAOWOOL: (Also Cerafiber; Cerawool; Pyro-Blanket; etc) in all forms and grades are classified as a Refractory Ceramic Fiber Product (RFC). They are considered benign substances except in the following case.

After exposure to extream heat some of the fibres are converted to crystaline silica and become friable.

HEALTH RISKS: Chronic exposure (daily for years) QUOTE, Studies to date, involving occupationally exposed workers, have not identified any increased incidence of respiratory disease. Long-trem exposure to specially-sized, rodent respirable fiber has resulted in the development of fibrosis, lung cancer and mesothelioma in rats and hamsters. END QUOTE

IN OTHER WORDS: They ground the stuff up extra fine, fluffed the rat with it until it died and use this as the basis for the hazard classification. NOTE: Fibre glass insulation is also in the same catagory of "reasonably anticipated to be carcinogens". Meaning they THINK they are but haven't proved it.

The only recomendations I could find had to do with installing or removing Kaowoool. Don't use power tools, wet down the dust before sweeping, use special HEPA vacuumes (extra fine approved filter).
more. . .

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 14:33:52 (GMT)


KAOWOOL: In general the MSDS says that this is a low risk substance. Workers dealing with its manufacture, installation or removal should take precautions. These are people that deal with TONS of the stuff.

FORGE LINING: I don't think your Kaowool forge is generating enough airborne contamination to be a problem (I will get more details). However, the only way to tell is to use an air sampler then have the sample read for the concentration level. Air samplers use a little vacuume line to suck air through a filter. The device is operated for a given time then the filter removed and "read" under a microscope.

REAL HAZZARDS: Ever see a sun beam shine through your shop after using a grinder with a fibreglass reinforced wheel? That sparkly dust is glass fibers. A LOT of it. This is the same hazzard we just looked at with Kaowool.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION!

Personaly, I think you are exposed to a greater hazzard standing on a street corner breathing the exhust fumes and asbestoes dust from passing vehicals than operating a Kaowool lined forge.

Jock Dempsey -- gugu at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 14:49:36 (GMT)


Hi Jock
real nice site.Am going to bookmark and come back often

Robert Bordeaux -- hotanvil at aol.com - Tuesday, April 21, 1998 at 17:47:20 (GMT)


So this is where all the junkyard posters have disappeared to! Looks like I've got another site to add to my rounds... You've done a great job Jock, congrats! Just hope ya don't leave us completely in the dark over at the junkyard now that ya got your own place :-(

Only 56 days left before the Ashville conference!

Joe Keith -- joe at ius.indiana.edu - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 01:26:37 (GMT)


Hmmmm, make that 55 days by server time.

Joe Keith -- joe at ius.indiana.edu - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 01:31:44 (GMT)


Hey Jock I have a question for you. How do you do the rope twist? What material do you start with and are you groveing anything before you twist. Thanks Rick http://www. Oh by the way I put a little piece on my forum you might want to do some pictures for on your site. The diamond twist.

Rick -- rickyc at - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 02:23:09 (GMT)


Jock: Thanks for the grinder info.

grandpa -- darylmeier at usa.net - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 12:33:18 (GMT)


Daryl: I'm still waiting to hear back from B&D. I'm not sure they make this grinder any more. My local dealer is no longer a B&D dealer.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 13:07:18 (GMT)


The "rope" twist was never in my bag of tricks. I made an "incised" twist starting from square I hammered chamfers "flats" on the corners and then used a hot chisel to make incised marks on the center of the bar on each face. Then twisted. The results are very classy looking. looks like four pieces. I made a little tool for the hardy hole to hold the bar while I chisled.

TODAY: I would make a tool to use under the power hammer. I'd make the tool on the shaper or milling machine. A rectangular groove, with a finer groove in the center to recieve a piece of HSS lathe cut off tool (1/16" or 1/8"). This would stick up just enough to be the "chisel". Four blows (or two if you make a top and bottom) and you are done! When I was making poker handles using the incised twist it took longer than basket twists! Today I could knock out the same quality work but 50 times faster!

THIS is what anvilfire is going to be about. Moderenizing the blacksmith shop! Whether you want to or not, YOU are in an international market. Fabricators can purchase all sorts of components that look handmade and just weld them together. Some of these components are actually made the same way you would but in a factory somewhere. In the recent past the cut and paste guys couldn't compete with the art of a true blacksmith. Today they produce some very nice work and are hard to compete against. To meet this competition you will have to modernize.

CASE: A very good friend of mine that has work in the National Cathedral among other places, had a job making several thousand feet of rail! The design was fixed and specified. All the pickets were to have rivited tennons at both ends. After a LONG argument about strength of forged tennons, I convinced him to try machined tennons. I set up one of his old antique lathes and showed him that you could turn a 1/2" (13cm) tennon on a 3/4" (20cm) bar in ONE pass! This in itself was only a little faster than forging the tennons. However, the tennons had a square corner, fit the drilled hole, were of equal length and could be produced by one of his "minions". Without the efficiency of fast accurate parts the job would have been a costly disaster and might not have ever been completed. The quality of the work was actually enhanced.

LETS step into the 21st century folks!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 13:37:04 (GMT)


Jock, just took a look at the Sears lever action forge...now where did I put that old treadle singer sewing machine? However,in the interests of sanity and the prevention of civil unrest,you should have deleted the 1915 PRICE!! I just about threw up thinking about it. You know we need to pool the many resources and talents on this page to build a TIME MACHINE. I bags first ride back to buy a brand new mousehole anvil for $1.98 (and some CocaCola stock!)
Keep it up (the Page!!)
Robert Bastow

Robert Bastow -- nil_carborundum - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 14:33:32 (GMT)


Whoops! looks like my last post trod on your last post. Sorry.
maybe I'll take SECOND ride on that time machine!

Robert -- nil_carborundum at hotmail.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 14:40:19 (GMT)


Hey, you fixed it! I am impressed. 'cept everyone now thinks I was seeing things! Maybe a nap will help? 8^)

Robert -- nil_carborundum at hotmail.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 14:45:41 (GMT)


1915 prices: I'll buy them NOW thank you! That was a the better part of a WEEK's wages then! Would you pay $500 - $1000 for a forge with a sheet metal pan? I suspect you could get a NEW import today for a lot less than a week's wages in the U.S.

Just added a second image to the Bellows info. Working on a hand crank drill image and some photos($7.40)!

Not sure what you think I fixed. . . You DO need sleep.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 14:51:48 (GMT)


1915: I forgot to give credit for the image borrowed from ABANA (fixed). These guys were trying to be as modern as they could get. Most of the machinery in the 1915 Sears Blacksmiths catalog is LATHES! Belt driven metal turning engine lathes almost EXACTLY like the 1916 South Bend I've got!

The only difference is my South Bend (who made the Sears Lathes) has a quick change gear box for threading. It makes this ancient machine a wonderful tool! I also own the lathe mentioned above (tennon making). It probably dates from the late 1800's. It will be an anvilfire project showing exactly waht a BLACKSMITH needs a lathe for (besides making parts for his Little Giant)!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 15:00:20 (GMT)


WILDCAT GRINDERS: These wonderful grinders are no longer handled by Black & Decker. DeWalt now carries the line. The best I could tell, the DeWalt DW494 is the same model we have been discussing. They have a web page at http://www.dewalt.com

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, April 22, 1998 at 22:42:55 (GMT)


Hi,

Checking out the site, looks good! (Oh, and for those who, like me,
don't like frames and use Navigator -- click w/ right mouse button
and select "Open Frame in New Window" Voila!)

Getting ready to head for the NWBA conference in Sisters, OR. Should
be a great way to spend the weekend! Will drop a note about it either
here or on the forge mail list.

JYH -- just a thought, instead of a shock absorber linkage, how about
an air cylinder that's closed off at both ends? Leakage would give you self-adjusting, the enclosed air would give a non-breaking spring.
(haven't seen any air suffering from metal fatigue in a long time)

TTYL

Morgan
Wilsonville, OR

Morgan Hall -- morganh at teleport.com - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 14:04:00 (GMT)


Morgan, Welcome to anvilfire! Good tip on the frames but I need my advertisers (personally I'm not too crazy about frames either).

JYH - Yeah, still planning to build it for Asheville!

Shock absorbers are closed oil cylinders, with little orifices for controlled leakage. I'd like an air spring but they are more expensive and not very common. The problem with a closed air cylinder is that it requires replacement air. Air springs have a closed elastomer bag, sometimes IN the cylinder. Hammers using the technique you describe were common from the 1850's through the early 1900's (great minds think alike). The Douglas Freund book covers them quite well (See my review and extra image under 21st Century).

At this point I am trying to keep the East Coast JYH as simple as possible. Only one machined part required at this point. Thats a pin and bushing for the shock to attach to the brake drum. Will try to fit over a wheel lug but stroke might be a problem. Later!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 16:09:10 (GMT)


FRAMES: A reminder. You can always drag the middle divider to the bottom of the screen and get 80% of the full page! I also turn off the "location" bar in netscape for this type of thing.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 16:13:01 (GMT)


Just found time to check out this page. Great stuff, I will link the bamsite to you when I get a chance. Thought I would post the info on BAM's Ozark Conference. We are excited to have Uri Hofi from Israel and John Medwedeff from southern Illinois as the featured demonstrators in addition to several of BAM's finest demo'ing everything from wizards to rendezvous. There is a special knifemakers area with on-going demos by Hank Knickmeyer and Todd Kinnikin and other kinfe types. The date is May 1-3,l location is Potosi, Missouri, 80 miles southwest of St. Louis. For more info contact Maurice Ellis at (314) 573-766-5346. Cost is $25.

Jim McCarty -- jimmac at socketis.net - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 20:03:10 (GMT)


Jock, The web is up and running. How Gray is your hair getting? Hope to see the Bull next week, The smith that has one in Oh.is doing a week long show. I'm impressed with what I've seen and received in the mail. Gotta get my scanner running to send some pix of tools to make for the shop. Later Bill

Bill Koeppe -- Thrivers1 - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 21:15:54 (GMT)


Jock, The web is up and running. How Gray is your hair getting? Hope to see the Bull next week, The smith that has one in Oh.is doing a week long show. I'm impressed with what I've seen and received in the mail. Gotta get my scanner running to send some pix of tools to make for the shop. Later Bill

Bill Koeppe -- Thrivers1 - Thursday, April 23, 1998 at 21:16:32 (GMT)


Early Internet Explorer users: Please accept my appologies for the Refresh, and Last Post functions not working. I do not know why but will look into it. It may just be "one of those things".

Thank you for your patience.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, April 24, 1998 at 01:21:42 (GMT)


THE GURU PAGE IS RUNNING! So I am out of here guys! This is YOUR forum now. I may peek in now an again but I have enough regular guru business and back postings to edit to keep me busy for a life time. I'll stop in to announce the progress on the East Coast JYH as it occurs or maybe launch a page of its own. As you see from the previous posting I may have some help now. Later!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Saturday, April 25, 1998 at 03:41:44 (GMT)


The guru just met a new neighbor that happens to be a young farrier in need of some help repairing an anvil (metioned above, useless and too ugly for a door stop), AND he needs a forge for his van. Boy was he in the right place at the right time!

I told him he'd have to buy the hard facing rods and any purchased materials he couldn't scrounge for his gas forge. The repairs and construction will be done in my shop and we will report on the projects here on anvilfire. Probably after the ABANA conference. The Guru has a junk yard hammer to build between now and then!

He's got his list of materials to scrounge, a 12vdc blower, a few fire bricks, odd pipe fittings, a little angle iron. . . Look for the report here on anvilfire!

JDD -- guru at anvilfire.com - Sunday, April 26, 1998 at 18:19:27 (GMT)


NO.1 Champion Hammer 65lbs. with heavy duty motor, switch, 30ft 220V cable and breaker, lotsa spare parts! Sold with a 1 1/2 ton rolling gantry. Set it up, plug it in and workworkwork!!! Located in Phillipsburg, NJ (Northern NJ on the Delaware R.) $2000

Gil Meeker -- gilmanfe at fast.net - Sunday, April 26, 1998 at 20:54:38 (GMT)


Would like to find a used power hammer in AZ. Of course resonably
priced in near perfect condition! Let me know if you know of one
rusting away within a reasonble distance to transport to the PHX.
metro area.
Thanks,
Geoff Gifford
My address is;
Geoff Gifford
poohcrnr at primenet.com

Geoff Gifford -- poohcrnr at primenet.com - Sunday, April 26, 1998 at 21:59:42 (GMT)


Jock, I'm one step closer to getting the Chambersburg up and running. I worked on the receiver tank this weekend. I'm trying my best to stump the guru. I have posted what I think is an other interesting question.

Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Monday, 04/27/98 00:34:30 GMT


Volume=PI*r^2*L Childs play!
Now the spherical spiral problem Michael posed is another matter. The trouble with that type of problem is defining parameters like the rate of spiral, whether you want a specific helix angle making the "spiral" a sperical thread rather than a classic spiral. This requires calculus or a computer program using the same. The scale model is the best solution in this case.

jdd -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, 04/27/98 03:24:13 GMT


I just upgraded this page to the same system I spent all weekend debugging for the guru page. On "post" you only have to click once to get back to the page and see the automaticaly refreshed message file and your post. MS-IE users, there will be help here soon. Other wise complain to microsoft (Thats like poundin' your head on a flamin' anvil!).

jdd -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, 04/27/98 14:23:40 GMT


Jock, et al

NWBA at Sisters OR was a good weekend. The instructor, Doug from Deer Island, Maine was a very good teacher. As a retreaded artsy-fartsy type (MFA 1972) I can reccomend his art teaching methods -- they worked! Ran a workshop before the conference that produced the most amazing table I've ever seen!!! Doug claimed it would be worth $6K to $10K at a large auction. I believe it. Our little auction couldn't produce that kind of ca$h with the finan$hally strapped among us (myself included). Luckily one of the workshop participants took it home. Bounced the air spring idea off Grant (no,
the west coast JYH didn't make it) who mentioned that air springs would probably need more than atmospheric pressure...

Saw a bull, ran it. GREAT! low center of gravity, controllable, and
whacks out a lot of work.

Learned how to wrap a rock in steel. Have a few ideas...

Swapped lies with a lot of folks I haven't seen for 6 months. Found
out tired diesel engines don't like to start on cold mornings... Thanks, Roger Olson, for the tow...

Looking forward to the fall conference!

Morgan Hall
Wilsonville, OR

Morgan Hall -- morganh at teleport.com - Tuesday, 04/28/98 13:48:01 GMT


Hi Jock,

I found you, and I like it here. Thanks for all the hard work. It looks like this is going to be a great place to visit.

John Dilbeck -- wizard at grove.net - Wednesday, 04/29/98 05:12:05 GMT


EAST COAST JYH:
Well guys, I've consulted with the Guru's guru (Dad) and he thinks the shock absorber linkage will work. He has some minor concerns about dynamics and the fact that you can't mathematicaly match a given shock for a given ram weight (me too).

I'm going to borrow a piece of design from Tom Troszak (maker of the BULL) and use a square guide behind the ram. The ram will be made out of a piece of railroad rail set verticaly, the flange becoming one side of the guide "box" that fits around the tube. This open design leaves the sides of the ram open so that there are no clearance problems typical of surround type guide systems like the early Little Giants used. This piece of heavy wall structural tubing may be the only purchased NEW material on this job!

To address the top heaviness of the machine the demo model will have an A-frame supporting the back end of the automobile axel. The column design I used in the prototype drawing would work fine bolted to a concrete pad. However, at Asheville the machine will either be sitting on uneven ground or in a parking lot and will need to be free standing.

The anvil will be a couple round flame cutting drops thst weigh about 220 lbs, setting on an old V-8 engine block for a riser and more mass. I was dissapointed in the weight and length of the Ford 305 block but it was free! I've also found a big piece of 2" plate for the base. It had a bunch of holes torched in it so that it was pretty much worthless :)

As soon as we move this stuff into the shop and get the axel we will report more details.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 04/30/98 03:22:36 GMT


Q: Anyone know how to make Kris? (Nasty, little serpentine, double-edged long knives)

Stu -- stu.smith at lynchburg.net - Thursday, 04/30/98 18:17:02 GMT


Q: Anyone know how to make Kris? (Nasty, little serpentine, double-edged long knives)

Stu -- stu.smith at lynchburg.net - Thursday, 04/30/98 18:17:09 GMT


Now see Stu, that's a slightly more specific question.

There are two methods of forming a blade. Stock removal, where you saw the blank out and then grind and file to shape. And forging. This is a case where forging has lots of advantages ove stock removal.

I start with a round or square piece of steel(old springs work) about 1/2" in diameter. Then heat it, forge a short point on it then bend the curves first (traditionaly 7 - 3&4). Then flatten the stock slightly and start tapering the blade by forging the inside curves on the horn of the anvil and the outside curves on the face of the anvil. Work back and forth between the two sides of the curves as tapering increases the curve and makes it hard to work the other side. When you have a nice flat diamond shaped section and a point then form your tang and you are done. All the final shaping will need to be done with files and sandpaper or a belt grinder. The the blade is heat treated and finished again.

jdd -- guru at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 04/30/98 18:55:20 GMT


Jock:

Glad to see everything up and running. I'm still a little busy but I hope to contribute down the line a bit (even if you do come from the wrong side of the Potomac, where they steal our oysters, pester our women, and swipe our gravestones to use as balast in their skipjacks).

Hope to finish the Viking metalwork series in the Junkyard in the next few weeks, and then I'll rebudget my time a bit (family and the work of the Republic allowing).

Knowledge for the heck of it; hurrah!

Visit your National Parks: www.nps.gov

Sail on our longship: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (case sensitive)

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- bruce_blackistone at nps.gov - Thursday, 04/30/98 19:11:56 GMT


Bruce, Maryland history says the women of your state can defend themselves quite well when they WANT to :)

Glad to have you aboard mate!

Jim. Those are more graphics from my son Patrick!

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Friday, 05/01/98 05:52:39 GMT


Hey, Jock!

I like the chain on the link page! Graphics are great!

Jim

Jim Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 04/30/98 22:26:35 GMT


Tink! Tink! Tink!

Well shoot guys, it's just a little beam hook! Grin)

Jim Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Thursday, 04/30/98 22:28:09 GMT

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