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Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty
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p.172 HAND-FORGING
marks are re-marked with a narrow cold chisel, cutting into the metal. Holes 5/32 in. are drilled for the eyes of pipes, and also a hole each side of the leaf where it springs from the plate, as indicated at A.
The leaf is now heated and cut through from one side with curved and straight chisels, leaving a beveled edge. This should be the front of the plate. In doing this kind of cutting it is well to have a piece of iron under the work to prevent cutting into the anvil. When all the leaf ends are cut and smoothed with a file, the molding along the edge of the plate is raised. This is done with a tool as shown in Fig. 115, at A—a square block of soft steel which fits the square hole in the anvil. It has a small sink 1/4 in. wide by 1/8 in. deep, as shown in the drawing. A hole is drilled at the side of the sink and a piece of round iron driven into it. This is used as a gauge for the edge of the plate to slide against while raising the molding. The top tool is just a small fuller that fits into the sink. There should be no sharp corners on these tools, but they must be smooth.
The plate is heated along the edge, and is then set into the bottom tool with its edge against the pin. The top tool is then placed on top of the plate, directly over the sink, and a helper strikes it with a heavy hand hammer, driving the fuller down and forcing the metal into the sink. At
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Hand Forging by Thomas F. Googerty