T-stakes. I do 80% or more of my raising on the big fellow, made of 3" square mild steel bar welded into a T shape, and weighing about 100 lbs. The stake face is ground to about a 3" radius from side to side, and a little narrower on the front. This means, as will become clear later, that this stake can't be used in the narrow peak of a helmet in the Norman style, especially in the finishing stages. We'll need special tooling for that!

Digression on stakes: are T-stakes "period", and how do you get stakes made, anyhow?

First, as to "authenticity" of T-stakes: I don't know. Very few period illustrations exist of armorers bashing out helmets. There is one dandy picture, in ffolke's Armourer and His Craft (1911), Plate IV, showing an armorer pounding away at a little bascinet, on what looks like a mushroom stake set in a stump. I have to say, though, I've never seen a period picture of a T-stake being used by an armorer. I've tried mushroom, or ball stakes, and I don't like them; I found the T-shape much easier to use. I encourage others to try different stake shapes -- what works for me may not work for them.

Second, how one obtains stakes: I had my large T-stakes made for me. An experienced welder at a steel fabrication shop welded two roughly 24" pieces of 3" square mild steel stock together at right angles (actually, I think the shank was 26" long, the top, 24"). He took many passes of 7018 rod to do it; I do not know the exact conditions (amperage, preheat, etc). If you want to make such a stake, and you are not an experienced arc-welder, go find someone who is. A T-stake joint must be super-strong and reliable. As to material, mild steel has worked fine. I needed no hard facing of any kind on my stakes. If I ever do raising with higher-carbon steels, though, maybe the stakes will wear a bit more!